The Z7 is pretty good, considering that it's Nikon's first FF mirrorless.
There are a few things that I hope get addressed in a future firmware update though:
One of the really nice things about aperture priority shooting on Nikon DSLRs is that you can modify the shutter speed selected based on 1/focal length, plus or minus a couple stops worth of shutter speed. I use it a lot on my D800e - I bump the shutter speed up for non-stabilized lenses, and lower it for stabilized lenses. On the Z7, I can't put this setting into "My Menu", nor can I assign it to a physical button. So the best I can do is to put it into U1...U3 (speaking of which, I'm sure happy to see the U1..U3 settings, since Nikon's DSLR settings banks are, to put it as politely as I can, not incredibly well thought out).
I'm not the first person to wonder what happened to 3D subject tracking. And why the user interface for subject tracking is so awkward? Also, like almost everyone who's used the Z7, I'd love to see something like Sony's eye tracking.
I was really keen on focus stacking - in fact, it was one of my reasons for getting the Z7. Unfortunately, the user interface for focus stacking is ... awkward. The most annoying thing about it is that the live view goes away while you're setting it up, and there's no way to actually aim the camera before starting the sequence. This makes handheld focus stacks almost impossible (although I tried). This isn't because I don't believe in tripods - I do, and like to use them where possible. But a lot of my shooting is in the backcountry, where every gram counts. I can easily handhold well enough to do half a dozen shots at different focus distances, which is enough depth of field even for the very large canvas prints I make, if combined with stitching. I tried attaching this function to a control ... but I still get taken to the focus stack screen, and so I can't see what I'm trying to focus stack. Too bad - this would be such a simple firmware fix. More sensible control over the focus increments would be really handy too, and would also be easy to calculate in camera (if Nikon folks were interested, I'd be happy to help them out).
Anyway, hope this of value to someone...