The cheap Fuji looks suspiciously like the gun came from Harbor Freight or Lowes. Maybe it's great, maybe not. I am familiar with the excellent T75 gun on the $600 system, it's very precise while having only two adjustments to think about. If I screw the needle out 1.75 turns I can predict exactly how much paint I will lay down on each coat, and I can easily adjust the fan to my favored 8 inch oval. It gives me exactly the finish I like, every time. That's also why I greatly prefer the turbine to a compressor, turbines never run out of air. The turbine I use now is several years old, and I only a year ago upgraded from a gun that was still working well after at least 1000 uses. Was due to a lost part on the very old gun that was out of stock.
With a compressor, you need at least 8+ CFM at no less than 40 PSI for the gun to complete any size of print in a single pass. With the typical 4 CFM nailer compressors you'll lose it after about a 24 x 36, and it will take a few minutes for the compressor to recover.
With the DeVilbiss gun you also need a relatively cheap regulator to take your 40 PSI line down to roughly 12 PSI for the gun. I see some of the other guns on your list come with regulators. It's a well regarded gun but like all that category of compressor driven systems there are a lot of knobs to set right.
The main skill you need to develop is to keep your distance and rate of motion exactly the same. Newbys have a really hard time keeping the same distance, and always speed up during a pass, which I why I pace myself with a metronome clipped to my shirt. They also develop stylistic things like flicking the gun suddenly up or down at the end of a pass. Nice and even and nothing fancy, that's the ticket.
Don't try to modulate the coating spray! Go pedal to metal on the handle every time. Canvas coating is no place for gradations, just get it done.