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Author Topic: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format  (Read 28119 times)

Wolven

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #100 on: October 17, 2014, 10:04:49 pm »

I've come a bit late to this thread so this may have been said before but if you have the readies then Mamiya's with a P25 back or similar can be had for a reasonable money. There are also 50mm Mamiya-Sekor 'shift' lenses to be had if you look for them, I have one which is wasted in a way as I use it only as a wide angle lens, and very nice it is to. My personal advice would be to just get out there and do it, it's the best way to work out what you really want.

Many thanks for the encouraging words, Justin! I ended up losing an auction on eBay yesterday due to some last second internet lag trickery! It was a great deal P25+ on a Mamiya 645 df and 80mm F2.8 that sold for AUD$5500....

I now have to play the waiting game for these increasingly hard to come by plus backs from PhaseOne. I'm hoping the dealers I have been in touch with can source something like that for me.
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Wolven

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #101 on: October 17, 2014, 10:07:40 pm »

Actually, the ideal solution for *cheap* tethered shooting may be the old Imacon/Hasselblad backs with ImageBank which trade at 1/2 the price of the untethered CF backs, or the Leaf Valeos, or even the various tethered backs marketed by Sinar and designed by Jenoptik. An advantage is that the files will be cleaner as there are less electronics in the back. For all I know some of these may even do a form of liveview on the computer.

There is a world of cheap kludgy solutions out there, based on out of maintenance products that work fine, but have no repair workshop, and mostly rely on obsolete software. Anyone who wants to go there needs real help eg. in locating cables and spares, not forum advice. A person buying a car that is 30 years old faces very different issues from somebody who bought the car new and kept it running for 30 years. In terms of electronics, an Imacon back is now the equivalent of a 1985 car.

Is it really the intention of this forum to let a newbie get lost in this labyrinth, or will someone tell him to get a dealer to help him?  -Steve, Doug let an honest devil appear now!  

Edmund

Thanks again for looking out Edmund. I have been advised time and again to seek a dealer's assistance and Doug reached out to me as well with some sound advice. I'm hoping to not completely cheap out and get an arcane back that may end up with problems a few months after purchase. I understand the concept of buying well the first time so I'm hoping that shelling out that little bit more will give me many years of pleasure (like my D600 continues to do).

Also, I don't see myself shooting tethered in the field. It has to be a standalone system.
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Wolven

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #102 on: October 17, 2014, 10:19:42 pm »

It is unfortunate that taxes and duty on imports over AU$1000 are quite high, Doug.

Your active participation with your consumers and knowledge, if I were in the US or making a visit, I would buy from DT in a heartbeat!!

Ironic that you'd say dealers would push FUD about private deals. One man's "FUD" is another mans "accurate information about the pros and cons of purchasing different ways".

You bought privately and spent many MONTHS, a good amount of cash, and a lot of frustration.

If you had purchased from DT we would have been glad to provide you options to evaluate how well your intended solution worked in your intended use-case (cold Swedish weather) to make sure the product you were after was the right one for you. Then if you ran into problems after purchase we know the repair techs and repair procedures extremely well, and would do everything we could to help make that process easy for you (we'd have no problem volunteering to do testing involving a freezer to reproduce specific cold-weather failures) and if with that knowledge and help a standard repair didn't seem to do the trick we'd find some creative solution to make sure you were taken care of.  In no case would you have banged your head against the wall for months. You may well have paid a bit more (in our case our pre-owned gear is pretty reasonably priced IMO, but we can't always match the single lowest eBay price at a given moment), but your forehead would have felt much better. If someone purchases from us and needs help I can't promise the world (e.g. out of warranty repairs still cost money, things still break, especially things like shutters) but I do have pretty large leeway on making sure they are happy with their purchase. If someone purchases elsewhere and needs help my leeway is not as large.

To be clear, most such private sales are entirely hassle free. But there is no question the level of confidence you have of a hassle free transaction and life of ownership is better when buying from a good dealer than when buying e.g. from eBay. This is not FUD; this is just a fact.
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Wolven

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #103 on: October 17, 2014, 10:24:00 pm »

Thanks for those links Erik! Looks like essential reading for anyone getting started like me

Hi Anders,

I guess that this may be the case.

Joseph Holmes posted a few articles on the issue:

http://www.josephholmes.com/news-sharpmediumformat.html
http://www.josephholmes.com/news-medformatprecision.html

But, that was back in 2009, things may have been improved.

I don't think dealers are spreading FUD on the issue. On the other hand I must say that I am not happy with the dealer system we are dealing with. Obviously some dealers are ver knowledgeable, but quite obviously not all dealers are. But, if there is an issue with a camera or a back, I would say that any user should be entitled to send it to the manufacturer for service. Also, service costs on MFD seem to be unproportionally high.

That said, my experience with my Phase One Dealer, D3 Image AB in Sweden, has been positive. But I only bought some cables and viewfinder masks. They delivered efficiently and at decent price.

Best regards
Erik



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torger

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #104 on: October 18, 2014, 02:50:10 am »

You can't do HPF ring focusing on a Techno or other view camera. You need an Alpa, Arca or Cambo pancake for that. You might be using infinity stops on the Techno and some do but they're hard to place and hard to move.

If you shoot in dark conditions the next step is that you might be interested in night skies, and then you need high ISO and large aperture lenses helps too. Shooting northern lights is ISO 1600 15 sec type of exposures. One idea is to use your DSLR for the long exposure / night work and the MF system for the rest.

The Techno is at its best when you want many lenses (low cost lens mount, and compact for the longer lenses) and want to have flexible movements on all lenses. It's at its worst if you want to shoot wide angle in dark conditions. Long exposure with 10 stop filters is fine though as you then shoot in quite bright conditions. The new CMOS backs drops the need of ground glass focusing and also gives you a bit of "night vision" thanks to their very good ISO performance, so view cameras seem to have a bright future (I just want to see a CMOS with better angular response, then I can relax...).
« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 04:01:27 am by torger »
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eronald

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #105 on: October 18, 2014, 03:56:07 am »

Our checklist in-house for evaluating pre-owned backs has about 25 more items on it :). But then again, having sold more digital backs than anyone, we know nearly every single thing that can go wrong with them :).

Ah it is always a pleasure to see our favorite devil appear, enshrouded in his cloud of sulfurous smoke :)
I'm actually puzzled that nobody is specializing in low-end obsolete backs - maybe I should do so myself - there is always room in hell for more staff ... and customers :)

Edmund
« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 04:00:18 am by eronald »
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torger

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #106 on: October 18, 2014, 04:16:11 am »

Ah it is always a pleasure to see our favorite devil appear, enshrouded in his cloud of sulfurous smoke :)
I'm actually puzzled that nobody is specializing in low-end obsolete backs - maybe I should do so myself - there is always room in hell for more staff ... and customers :)

I think Mr Rib does?

Anyway I too think there's a market. The thing is that not everyone think that the highest resolution is most important, many find it fun to play around with the classic systems. The image quality is good too. Ever since 2003-2004 image quality has been at a very high level. Sure today you can pick up an D810 and exceed that in many aspects, but the absolute image quality of this older backs are still what it is, very good.

And with a good image quality there's people interested in playing around a bit with something different. A friend of mine has a Sinar, Hassy V and a Mamiya RZ system for his 22 megapixel V-mount back and having fun with that. The total system cost is about what a couple of lenses for a Hassy H costs.

A problem will be to reach out to customers though. It's a special type of photographer that likes this kind of stuff, and not everyone knows that they're one of them either. You probably need the world, not just local.
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eronald

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #107 on: October 18, 2014, 05:02:02 am »

Mr. Rib seems to be into price gouging as far as I can see.
Doug and Steve are best-of-breed, but they obviously deal in stuff which has a minimum price well above scrap.

I think there is room at the very bottom, also selling cables, compatible batteries etc.

Edmund

I think Mr Rib does?

Anyway I too think there's a market. The thing is that not everyone think that the highest resolution is most important, many find it fun to play around with the classic systems. The image quality is good too. Ever since 2003-2004 image quality has been at a very high level. Sure today you can pick up an D810 and exceed that in many aspects, but the absolute image quality of this older backs are still what it is, very good.

And with a good image quality there's people interested in playing around a bit with something different. A friend of mine has a Sinar, Hassy V and a Mamiya RZ system for his 22 megapixel V-mount back and having fun with that. The total system cost is about what a couple of lenses for a Hassy H costs.

A problem will be to reach out to customers though. It's a special type of photographer that likes this kind of stuff, and not everyone knows that they're one of them either. You probably need the world, not just local.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2014, 05:04:11 am by eronald »
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torger

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #108 on: October 20, 2014, 03:23:13 am »

A word about the dealer thing; although I don't particularly like the costly dealer business model the established MF players are doing (it must be turned into a volume model if prices is ever going down to at least Pentax 645z levels), and I don't like being used as an example of a failed second hand deal when I in fact think it was an example of a failed dealer structure, I do think Doug and Steve present on this forum present a knowledge unparalleled in any dealer I've been in contact with. I'm sure they're great dealers, I've heard nothing but good about them, and I've seen they've had quite attractive second hand deals too. Most importantly they seem to be interested in matching product with the customer's need and budget. It's very different from what I've got here in Sweden, Norway and Germany.

I do like to hear what users think, which don't have a salesman's perspective. However, many users are actually worse than salesmen, it's very common that people get into the mode "because I've bought this thing, it's be perfect" and you get nothing but praise. For example you can hear people say that the SK35 is working excellently with their IQ180. It's not until you really press them you realize that they never shift more than 5mm because outside that it image quality fails due to heavy color cast. It may be fine for them because they don't really need shift in their shooting style, but can be a disaster to someone else. I know both Doug and Steve are both very aware of these types of limitations and will point them out.

I'm the type of user that have no problems with pointing out issues in my (or others) gear. Therefore I may come across as a bit negative, some think this whole MF forum is a bit MF-negative, but I think when you're an amateur with limited budget it's very important to think over all the limitations and not exaggerate the advantages so you don't get disappointed. With the right expectations you can be very happy with older MF gear and get new creative possibilities not available in 135 system, but you always lose more features than you gain so you have to value what you gain and be able to live without features you lose.
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Paul2660

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #109 on: October 20, 2014, 09:39:18 am »

I think Paul is talking about back handling, ie how the histogram shows. At the raw level all backs behave in the same way a simple linear filling of a channel and than clip straight off (non-linear highlight response is indeed coming to sensors, but it's not in our cameras yet).

Most highlight "blinkies" show blinking a bit early, for example based on a calculated luminance for the set white balance, rather than show exact raw clipping. The P45+ has more than one stop more sensitive green channel  than the red in daylight, while the Dalsas have more balanced RGB sensitivity in daylight (which also counts for the older 7.2um Dalsa I'm using). Maybe this difference make the P45+ show blinkies later than the Dalsa backs? An ideally exposed red channel will likely mean a clipped green channel on the P45+, while the "daylight-balanced" Dalsa can expose all channels well (simplified of course, depends on what colors you have in the scene etc).

This difference in relative sensitivity might also affect how highlight reconstruction works in Capture One, I don't know. I'm sure Pauls observations are valid, he has a lot of experience with this product and others, but he's talking about handling in the Capture One workflow rather than what's exactly happening on the raw level.

Just having more noisy shadows could also make it appear that you have less highlights as you'd want to expose further to the right.

I think it's okay to use the "noisy" sensors, but be aware that 1) I use grad filters and 2) I have a shooting style which prefer softer light conditions and often not any visible sky at all and 3) my post-processing style is such that I don't push shadows that much.

It's also important to learn by testing how the highlight blinkies and histogram works. I know I can push a little past the blinkies on my Aptus and still not clip. Rather than a white-balance dependent luminance level I'd prefer to have true raw blinkies with red=all channels clipped, orange=two channels clipped and yellow=one channel clipped, but I guess manufacturers consider that to be too user-unfriendly...

Hi Torger:

Actually I was referring to the fact that the P45+ would blow a highlight period.  On the LCD screen, if you even saw a blinking highlight, then when I got back to work the file in post that would be 255-255-255, totally non recoverable and at times pink.  So on a nice day, with a partly cloudy sky, if I exposed such that I saw any blinking highlight, (as I remember they were blinking in red, but it may have been black), I knew that I had to work up a different exposure until I found one where I had no highlight warning, this totally of course meant my shadows were worthless and underexposed as much as 1 to 1.5 stops.  So the solution was a exposure bracketing.  Working with water, in the 1 to 5 second range was the same issue even worse.

As Bart and and Eric have mentioned, C1 opens the raw files with seemingly a push if you use the "film curve", and you could go back to the linear curve.  This would help in about 30% of the shots, however I never liked the output from the linear curve and always used the film curve. 

If you took the shot that was correctly exposed for highlights, thus considerably underexposed, then the shadow recovery was gone, no details, tons of noise and smearing.  These were all shot at iso 50 or 100 on the P45+ with the most current firmware that was available at the time. 

Now take this solution to a tech camera, where you are forced to add the mandatory LCC frame and start bracketing for exposure you ware talking a ton of frames for 1 image and even more if you are working with shifts.  To me way too much work in post.  Yes I agree by chip design the 39MP Kodak was more tech camera friendly in relation to shifts, as you did not see the same issues the Dalsa chips have, but I still feel the Dalsa chip is the overall better solution when all aspects of the exposure are taken into consideration.  Dalsa allows a for a much better highlight recovery, even with a lot of the sky blinking with highlight warnings.  Thus your shadow areas have much more life and less noise.

Eric has shown many times his comparison of an A99 and P45+ shot where he attempted to recovery the shadows, in his straight forward test, you can see just how poorly the P45+ was able to handle any type of push.  Thus again, the shadow area had to be exposed directly which would result in a blown highlight if there were any parts of the image that would be involved, water, sky etc.

Now also add to the fact that with a tech camera, you are currently forced to a copol shutter solution in 95% of the lenses in use.  The Copol offers no 1/3 or 1/2 shutter speeds, so this problem will be even worse.  At least with the DF body, you had the ability to get the in between shutter speeds, and having these can make a huge difference, as there is quite a bit of light between 1/15 and 1/30, but if you could have 1/20th or 1/25th you might have had better results. 

I am not trying to trash the Kodak chip, just trying to point out what I feel are real world issues and limitations.  In a post on getdpi you mentioned, the Hasselbald users of both the 39 and 50MP Kodaks seem to have less issues, some of this may be because I believe most of them are not on tech camera solutions.  Phase One has always had an easier back to move to tech cameras, be it the P45+ or a Dalsa chip.

I also strongly don't feel that the long exposure capabilities of the P45+ are worth what they were in 2008.  Back then the P45+ was the only solution as even 35mm DSLR"s couldn't really get to 1 hour with any clean exposures and they didn't begin to have 39MP.  This has changed so much to the opposite, as pretty much any modern 35mm DSLR from Sony, Canon or Nikon can easily make an equal or cleaner 1 hour exposure than the P45+, and with Nikon have almost the same MP's.   For exposures in the 1" to 15 sec range the DSLR I feel is superior as you can turn off the dark frame exposure and still have a very clean image.  Don't forget, which many seem to, that the temperature range of the P45+ for  1 hours exposures is 69 degrees F and much less than 100% humidity.  If you tried to use a P45+ in Arkansas or anywhere in the south of the US in late spring or summer outdoors, you would not be able to get anywhere close to 1 hours, more like 15 minutes.

Purchases of MF backs, is so much more difficult since you just can't walk into a local camera store and try one out, and you may also need to use some pretty specialized camera equipment.  I know just how friggin hard it is for a shop like mine to get a rental on any Phase One back due to the insurance, net it's impossible, so if I want to see or try out a product, I have to travel to either NY city, (not going to happen) or Atlanta, a bit more possible.  So for the OP, I do hope you can find someone in your area that either has one of the products you are interested in or a good dealer with demo capabilities. 

Paul
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torger

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #110 on: October 20, 2014, 10:45:30 am »

Thanks for the detailed clarification Paul.

Pink highlights is the classical sign of a clipped channel (as green is clipped first the result becomes pink). That blinking highlight actually means clipped channel in raw I see as an advantage, rather than the typical that blinking highlight means "possibly clipping, but you might push it a bit more".

I'm a bit surprised though that there would be such a big difference in noise, I don't see that in the example files I have but your real-world long-term use beats looking at a few raw files.

There's no doubt that the Dalsa has lower noise, but neither what I've seen in casual looking at files or DxO measurements indicate that there should be a large difference. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the difference in red channel sensitivity is doing something spooky with the highlights in Capture One....

Could be that Phocus is better at dealing with "Kodak highlights" than Capture One? But yes it's true that most Hasselblad users are studio photographers which put sensor much less to the test than on landscape on a tech cam.
« Last Edit: October 20, 2014, 10:54:46 am by torger »
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Wolven

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #111 on: October 20, 2014, 10:52:20 am »

Thanks Anders, then I misunderstood the usage of HPF rings.

Also, I see the theme of the DSLR being the goto platform for long exposures (and night photography) when compared to past MF backs. With that in mind, if I do not necessarily need one of the plus backs. Would a P25 be sufficient for most intents and purposes?

You can't do HPF ring focusing on a Techno or other view camera. You need an Alpa, Arca or Cambo pancake for that. You might be using infinity stops on the Techno and some do but they're hard to place and hard to move.

If you shoot in dark conditions the next step is that you might be interested in night skies, and then you need high ISO and large aperture lenses helps too. Shooting northern lights is ISO 1600 15 sec type of exposures. One idea is to use your DSLR for the long exposure / night work and the MF system for the rest.

The Techno is at its best when you want many lenses (low cost lens mount, and compact for the longer lenses) and want to have flexible movements on all lenses. It's at its worst if you want to shoot wide angle in dark conditions. Long exposure with 10 stop filters is fine though as you then shoot in quite bright conditions. The new CMOS backs drops the need of ground glass focusing and also gives you a bit of "night vision" thanks to their very good ISO performance, so view cameras seem to have a bright future (I just want to see a CMOS with better angular response, then I can relax...).
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torger

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #112 on: October 20, 2014, 11:07:14 am »

Would a P25 be sufficient for most intents and purposes?

If you drop long exposure requirement, you get a world of "junk" you can wade through ;). My favourite of course is the Leaf Aptus 75, 33 megapixel often at the same price as 22. I've had some bad experience in cold weather with it leading me to think that there's sample variation (some can do cold weather, others can't, my current Aptus 75 does -30C without issues), but being in Australia I find that unlikely to be a problem. You have the Hasselblad CF backs, and of course the P25.

Anyway if 22 megapixels is enough, yes a P25 will work out well. I still think you need wakeup procedure for that back, something you won't be needing on the Aptus 22 or 75, and not the Hasselblad CF backs in most situations.

If you're going to buy second hand it's good to have your eyes open for several options as it's a small market and you may not find one specific back at one specific point in time.
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Paul2660

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #113 on: October 20, 2014, 11:15:20 am »

Thanks for the detailed clarification Paul.

Pink highlights is the classical sign of a clipped channel (as green is clipped first the result becomes pink). That blinking highlight actually means clipped channel in raw I see as an advantage, rather than the typical that blinking highlight means "possibly clipping, but you might push it a bit more".

I'm a bit surprised though that there would be such a big difference in noise, I don't see that in the example files I have but your real-world long-term use beats looking at a few raw files.

There's no doubt that the Dalsa has lower noise, but neither what I've seen in casual looking at files or DxO measurements indicate that there should be a large difference. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the difference in red channel sensitivity is doing something spooky with the highlights in Capture One....

Could be that Phocus is better at dealing with "Kodak highlights" than Capture One? But yes it's true that most Hasselblad users are studio photographers which put sensor much less to the test than on landscape on a tech cam.

In 2008 the P45+ was ahead of the competition in resolution, 2x over Canon's 1ds MKIII, which had CMOS and over better DR.  I also feel that P45+ files processed in C1 7 or 8 have a much better look to them, as I have been re-working many files from my P45+.  But the highlight shadows problems are still there.  

I agree 100% that the Kodaks by design are better suited for tech lenses.  I saw this with my P45+ on an SK43 and SK35, as I was able to get shifts of up to 12mm on the SK35 and 18mm on the SK43, which just are not possible with the Dalsa chips.  But I still prefer the DR of the Dalsa and have come to live with the limits on movements.  

If the P45+ had USB2 or 3 and would tether to a Surface Pro or similar device, then I might have a more open opinion, but on the LCD of the P45+, it's next to impossible to check focus at 100% and when you do the number of button pushes to move around a file is way way to many and you can just watch the battery move to zero.  This is all coming from a tech camera solution opinion.

Eric has shown excellent examples of what he can get with a P45+ on Hasselbald, and he is using all manual focus lenses and the ground glass in the Hasselbald optical finder.  

So it's more about what the photographer is after, and what their planned  camera solution.  The OP had originally shown interest in a Tech solution and I made most of my posts based on that.  Nothing worse than spending a day in the field and shooting 200 frames only to find that 50% or more are just a tad out of focus.  

I know many folks either hate or don't believe the DxO scores, however in my photography I have found them to be very very accurate on just what DR you can expect.  The score of the P45+ I believe was 77 and the P65+ was 89,  That's a huge difference IMO, and from my real world results I would agree with their scores 100%.

Paul
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torger

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #114 on: October 20, 2014, 11:54:53 am »

Took another look at test files I have, and I'd say that there's roughly 1 - 1.5 stop advantage to the P65+ over the P45+ in terms of shadow noise at pixel peep, which translates to roughly 1 - 1.5 stop more usable dynamic range, which if you takes resolution into account grows more. So yes I agree it's a big difference.

It depends on shooting style however how relevant that will be though. My current Aptus 75 is about at the same level as P45+ in performance, a tiny bit better (but within error marginal), but I feel that has adequate performance.

That said I shall say it must be a low contrast condition if *not* using a grad on a shot with sky, and I more often shoot scenes which do not have sky in them than with, which makes me less dependent on DR. Some may find the P65+ to be low enough in noise to ditch the grads, and that can make a real difference in handling in the field.

I think that all the Kodak backs (the 50 megapixel are at the same level as the 39 megapixel) plus older Dalsas like my own should be handled a bit like slide film, ie if it looks underexposed on the LCD, you're going to have noise in your image after postprocessing. So you need to use grads just as with film.
« Last Edit: October 20, 2014, 12:09:26 pm by torger »
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eronald

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #115 on: October 20, 2014, 01:59:13 pm »

The P65 is really a step up from the P45+ in terms of practical DR
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ErikKaffehr

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #116 on: October 20, 2014, 02:00:10 pm »

Hi Paul,

I know how to read DxO-mark, when I bought my P45+ I knew pretty well that it was a relatively old back and also that the P65+ was a much better performer. I would preferred the P65+ but the 10 k$US was about what I was willing to pay for a back, the P65+ were quite a bit more expensive than that. That said it was still on Phase One's price list, and I was offered a trade in something like 15k$USD if I upgraded to an IQ-260.


At the time I bought it there were much noise about the DR advantage MFD, some author here on LuLa talked about 6EV advantage of MFD. That statement together with statement of the superiority of 16-bit devices vs. 14 bit devices kicked of some of my interest in MFD, because I could find an plausible explanation. Of course, I knew that MFD had a significant resolution advantage. I also happened to have a couple of Hasselblad lenses I liked and wanted to use them to their full potential.

So much of my testing was in the critical and wanting to find out mode, that is not in the "I just bought a new fantastic toy for a lot of money" mode.

Very clearly, the shadows are quite a bit more noisy on the P45+ compared to the Sony Alpha 99 I have. But, I have not had that much problem with overexposed sky. The blinkies and histogram work reasonably well for me, if I can see them, that is.

Now, I used mostly Lightroom as I never got friendly with Capture One. With Capture One I mostly used the linear response curve. But I don't think I had bad sky colour on either. But I have some lock in with Lightroom, since I have used it since it's inception (public beta 3), so Lightroom suits me extremely well.

Now, after shooting with the P450 for 15 months I don't feel that DR limits my work. Sometimes I would like better darks but normally it is no problem.

My guess would be that P45+ is pretty OK to find out about MFD. Expensive, considering that something like 3-4 very capable DSLR-s could be bought for the same price.

I would expect that the P25 is like the P45+, with fatter pixels. If the buyer doesn't care about resolution, the only disadvantage of the P25 is that it produces more aliasing and has even more tendency to moiré.

So my take in short is that the P45+ does a decent job at an indecent price. Newer MFD-s probably do a very good job at higher prices.

Torger has a point that Leaf Aptus has a lower price point. Personally, I started looking at the Aptus originally. But Anders Torger's experience of dealership frightened me quite a bit. Some good folks, like Stefan Steib suggested that the P45+ was one of the better backs, so when I found out Mr. Rib had one in good shape I opted for it instead. One thing I didn't like on the Aptus was the fan. Anders knows what is so devilish about that fan, I presume:-)

Best regards
Erik






Hi Torger:

Actually I was referring to the fact that the P45+ would blow a highlight period.  On the LCD screen, if you even saw a blinking highlight, then when I got back to work the file in post that would be 255-255-255, totally non recoverable and at times pink.  So on a nice day, with a partly cloudy sky, if I exposed such that I saw any blinking highlight, (as I remember they were blinking in red, but it may have been black), I knew that I had to work up a different exposure until I found one where I had no highlight warning, this totally of course meant my shadows were worthless and underexposed as much as 1 to 1.5 stops.  So the solution was a exposure bracketing.  Working with water, in the 1 to 5 second range was the same issue even worse.

As Bart and and Eric have mentioned, C1 opens the raw files with seemingly a push if you use the "film curve", and you could go back to the linear curve.  This would help in about 30% of the shots, however I never liked the output from the linear curve and always used the film curve. 

If you took the shot that was correctly exposed for highlights, thus considerably underexposed, then the shadow recovery was gone, no details, tons of noise and smearing.  These were all shot at iso 50 or 100 on the P45+ with the most current firmware that was available at the time. 

Now take this solution to a tech camera, where you are forced to add the mandatory LCC frame and start bracketing for exposure you ware talking a ton of frames for 1 image and even more if you are working with shifts.  To me way too much work in post.  Yes I agree by chip design the 39MP Kodak was more tech camera friendly in relation to shifts, as you did not see the same issues the Dalsa chips have, but I still feel the Dalsa chip is the overall better solution when all aspects of the exposure are taken into consideration.  Dalsa allows a for a much better highlight recovery, even with a lot of the sky blinking with highlight warnings.  Thus your shadow areas have much more life and less noise.

Eric has shown many times his comparison of an A99 and P45+ shot where he attempted to recovery the shadows, in his straight forward test, you can see just how poorly the P45+ was able to handle any type of push.  Thus again, the shadow area had to be exposed directly which would result in a blown highlight if there were any parts of the image that would be involved, water, sky etc.

Now also add to the fact that with a tech camera, you are currently forced to a copol shutter solution in 95% of the lenses in use.  The Copol offers no 1/3 or 1/2 shutter speeds, so this problem will be even worse.  At least with the DF body, you had the ability to get the in between shutter speeds, and having these can make a huge difference, as there is quite a bit of light between 1/15 and 1/30, but if you could have 1/20th or 1/25th you might have had better results. 

I am not trying to trash the Kodak chip, just trying to point out what I feel are real world issues and limitations.  In a post on getdpi you mentioned, the Hasselbald users of both the 39 and 50MP Kodaks seem to have less issues, some of this may be because I believe most of them are not on tech camera solutions.  Phase One has always had an easier back to move to tech cameras, be it the P45+ or a Dalsa chip.

I also strongly don't feel that the long exposure capabilities of the P45+ are worth what they were in 2008.  Back then the P45+ was the only solution as even 35mm DSLR"s couldn't really get to 1 hour with any clean exposures and they didn't begin to have 39MP.  This has changed so much to the opposite, as pretty much any modern 35mm DSLR from Sony, Canon or Nikon can easily make an equal or cleaner 1 hour exposure than the P45+, and with Nikon have almost the same MP's.   For exposures in the 1" to 15 sec range the DSLR I feel is superior as you can turn off the dark frame exposure and still have a very clean image.  Don't forget, which many seem to, that the temperature range of the P45+ for  1 hours exposures is 69 degrees F and much less than 100% humidity.  If you tried to use a P45+ in Arkansas or anywhere in the south of the US in late spring or summer outdoors, you would not be able to get anywhere close to 1 hours, more like 15 minutes.

Purchases of MF backs, is so much more difficult since you just can't walk into a local camera store and try one out, and you may also need to use some pretty specialized camera equipment.  I know just how friggin hard it is for a shop like mine to get a rental on any Phase One back due to the insurance, net it's impossible, so if I want to see or try out a product, I have to travel to either NY city, (not going to happen) or Atlanta, a bit more possible.  So for the OP, I do hope you can find someone in your area that either has one of the products you are interested in or a good dealer with demo capabilities. 

Paul

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Erik Kaffehr
 

torger

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #117 on: October 20, 2014, 02:29:33 pm »

The P65 is really a step up from the P45+ in terms of practical DR

The P40+ does the same to a more modest price if you can live with the 44x33 size. An Aptus-II 8 (also 44x33) might be the cheapest option with Dalsa 6um tech. If one values DR much that can be an alternative.

The 22 megapixel backs have similar performance in this regard as the P45+.

My take on it is that you can make high quality images with the older tech and you can value SK wide compatibility more, but it's individual.
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ErikKaffehr

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #118 on: October 20, 2014, 03:13:55 pm »

Hi,

Older tech is quite a bit cheaper than old tech and old tech is cheaper than present tech.

But true Art never cares about Tech or Cost.

Best regards
Erik

The P40+ does the same to a more modest price if you can live with the 44x33 size. An Aptus-II 8 (also 44x33) might be the cheapest option with Dalsa 6um tech. If one values DR much that can be an alternative.

The 22 megapixel backs have similar performance in this regard as the P45+.

My take on it is that you can make high quality images with the older tech and you can value SK wide compatibility more, but it's individual.
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Erik Kaffehr
 

eronald

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Re: Request for advice getting started in digital medium format
« Reply #119 on: October 20, 2014, 05:14:26 pm »

Hi,


But true Art never cares about Tech or Cost.

Best regards
Erik


Erik,

 You are starting to sound like the dark Phase strong with you is :)

Edmund
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