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Author Topic: Arca Swiss C1 Cube  (Read 22357 times)

gdwhalen

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Arca Swiss C1 Cube
« Reply #40 on: January 01, 2010, 09:28:56 pm »

Quote from: JeffKohn
One thing about the Cube, is that the lever-release clamp that comes with it really sucks (it's also used on a couple of their ballheads). Not only does it not seem very well made, but you'll have to file down a part to get it to work with RRS plates and brackets. Better yet, just remove it and replace it with a RRS clamp, much better.


This is completely wrong.  I have the cube and have had absolutely no problem with the lever or a need to file it down.  Problem is that people try to muscle the lever instead of learning how to operate it.  The lever works VERY smoothly and requires little to no effort at all if done properly.

JonRoemer

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« Reply #41 on: January 01, 2010, 10:55:12 pm »

Quote from: gdwhalen
This is completely wrong.  I have the cube and have had absolutely no problem with the lever or a need to file it down.  Problem is that people try to muscle the lever instead of learning how to operate it.  The lever works VERY smoothly and requires little to no effort at all if done properly.

I just picked up a cube last week and confirm this, too.  First thing I did was test it to make sure it worked well with my 1DsM3 RRS L plate.  It works fine.

Arca-Swiss would do better by having clearer instructions that the lever is two steps and that the second step works differently from the first. How about a web site (long called for by many folks), YouTube video, or something other than a poorly done Xeroxed diagram?....

Once you figure it out, it's a piece of cake.

The instructions do mention what to do but the diagram stops short of showing it well.

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Wayne Fox

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« Reply #42 on: January 02, 2010, 04:05:34 am »

Quote from: JonRoemer
I just picked up a cube last week and confirm this, too.  First thing I did was test it to make sure it worked well with my 1DsM3 RRS L plate.  It works fine.

Arca-Swiss would do better by having clearer instructions that the lever is two steps and that the second step works differently from the first. How about a web site (long called for by many folks), YouTube video, or something other than a poorly done Xeroxed diagram?....

Once you figure it out, it's a piece of cake.

The instructions do mention what to do but the diagram stops short of showing it well.

Site | Blog


Agreed.  Took me a while to figure out how to open the cube all the way.  I was a little nervous at first, but seems that once you get the tension right, it worked quite well.  After getting used to it, I have no problem with it the way it is.

I am having a hard time breaking habits of just grabbing the camera and trying to loosen the ball, but I love how accurately I can position the camera, including very small tweaks. I'm using the artificial horizon on the p65 back to get it perfectly level ... so easy.
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JeffKohn

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« Reply #43 on: January 02, 2010, 03:26:12 pm »

Quote from: gdwhalen
This is completely wrong.  I have the cube and have had absolutely no problem with the lever or a need to file it down.  Problem is that people try to muscle the lever instead of learning how to operate it.  The lever works VERY smoothly and requires little to no effort at all if done properly.
It has nothing to do with "muscling the lever" or not knowing how it works. The first open position was too tight to allow my l-brackets to slide back and forth like they should, unless I filed it the lever down. That's just the way it worked. If your brackets fit better, then hey that's great for you. Maybe Arca-Swiss has some QA consistencies to work on. I still think the RRS clamps are better made.

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John Collins

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« Reply #44 on: January 02, 2010, 07:00:29 pm »

I don't think that Arca-Swiss has any problem with design or quality control. As has been pointed out, the clamp works in two stages. The instructions might be more clear, but if you are careful to use both stages of the clamp lever it works well and allows top loading of RRS plates. Here's how it works:

The initial opening of the lever is fairly obvious; move the silver button toward the end of the lever and swing the lever out until it stops in a position perpendicular to the clamp.

Then, look at the silver shaft that is exposed to view on the back side of the lever. Notice the repetitive conical shapes? Ok. With your right thumb over the exposed stepped shaft, grasp the lever between your right index finger and right thumb, place your thumbnail on one of the steps at the base of a conical shape and draw the shaft toward your palm (the distal end of the lever) then when it stops at the end of its travel, gently move the lever forward until it rests parallel to the clamp body.

The jaws of the clamp are now open enough to top load an RRS plate.

TA DA!
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Brent McCombs

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« Reply #45 on: January 02, 2010, 09:39:06 pm »

Quote from: Wayne Fox
Agreed.  Took me a while to figure out how to open the cube all the way.  I was a little nervous at first, but seems that once you get the tension right, it worked quite well.  After getting used to it, I have no problem with it the way it is.

I am having a hard time breaking habits of just grabbing the camera and trying to loosen the ball, but I love how accurately I can position the camera, including very small tweaks. I'm using the artificial horizon on the p65 back to get it perfectly level ... so easy.


Can't wait til i get my camera - that artificial horizon + cube is going to make my life much easier, as I had such difficulty, even with the bubble.
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Brent McCombs

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« Reply #46 on: January 02, 2010, 09:41:58 pm »

Quote from: JeffKohn
It has nothing to do with "muscling the lever" or not knowing how it works. The first open position was too tight to allow my l-brackets to slide back and forth like they should, unless I filed it the lever down. That's just the way it worked. If your brackets fit better, then hey that's great for you. Maybe Arca-Swiss has some QA consistencies to work on. I still think the RRS clamps are better made.

When I got mine, the adjustable jaws were set to their tightest position, and i experienced the same situation, until I loosened the twirly wheel, and now things work great. A *very big* caution, however - the screw can pop a spring if turned too far, so go very slowly, keep a finger pressed against the screw hole, and take note of the assembly in case things go off.  Here the design is less than great, imo.
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JeffKohn

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« Reply #47 on: January 03, 2010, 12:03:55 am »

Quote from: John Collins
I don't think that Arca-Swiss has any problem with design or quality control. As has been pointed out, the clamp works in two stages. The instructions might be more clear, but if you are careful to use both stages of the clamp lever it works well and allows top loading of RRS plates. Here's how it works:

The initial opening of the lever is fairly obvious; move the silver button toward the end of the lever and swing the lever out until it stops in a position perpendicular to the clamp.

Then, look at the silver shaft that is exposed to view on the back side of the lever. Notice the repetitive conical shapes? Ok. With your right thumb over the exposed stepped shaft, grasp the lever between your right index finger and right thumb, place your thumbnail on one of the steps at the base of a conical shape and draw the shaft toward your palm (the distal end of the lever) then when it stops at the end of its travel, gently move the lever forward until it rests parallel to the clamp body.

The jaws of the clamp are now open enough to top load an RRS plate.

TA DA!
One more time.... I understand how the Cube's clamp works, and I know how to open it fully. But when it's open halfway, the clearance is too tight for my l-bracket to slide back and forth. You might think this a minor thing, and depending on your exact equipment you might not even have this problem. But it's a problem for me. I often flat-stitch with a shift lens, and I need to be able to move the camera side-to-side to avoid parallax. I don't want to have to open the clamp up all the way to do that, because it's less secure.

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