Luminous Landscape Forum
Equipment & Techniques => Cameras, Lenses and Shooting gear => Topic started by: wolfnowl on December 09, 2009, 03:11:11 pm
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Hi Folks:
In Michael's recent review of the Hartblei cam he mentions the Arca Cube tripod head. I wandered over to B&H to have a look, and they have two listings for it with different prices: $ 1,699.99 and $ 1,924.95. The only difference I can see is the very nice leather carrying case, which, as Jack Flesher says in his review, "though why remains a puzzle to me since I don't know anybody that carries their tripod head separate from their tripod…"
Just thought I'd mention it 'cause you don't want to shell out $225 more for something you don't want/ won't use.
Mike.
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Hi Folks:
In Michael's recent review of the Hartblei cam he mentions the Arca Cube tripod head. I wandered over to B&H to have a look, and they have two listings for it with different prices: $ 1,699.99 and $ 1,924.95. The only difference I can see is the very nice leather carrying case, which, as Jack Flesher says in his review, "though why remains a puzzle to me since I don't know anybody that carries their tripod head separate from their tripod…"
Just thought I'd mention it 'cause you don't want to shell out $225 more for something you don't want/ won't use.
Mike.
I was also surprised to see the two different prices and came to the same conclusion... The only difference is the leather case.
This morning I went by a Louis Vuiton store and saw a nice leather suitcase. Its price was something like US$ 22,000 (no typo!). You could of course store at least a dozen Arca Swiss cubes in it ;-)
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The leather case isn't even nice, it has no padding and the inner surface is rough. Don't waste your money on it.
The C1 Cube is a fabulous head, though (albeit overpriced).
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I was also surprised to see the two different prices and came to the same conclusion... The only difference is the leather case.
This morning I went by a Louis Vuiton store and saw a nice leather suitcase. Its price was something like US$ 22,000 (no typo!). You could of course store at least a dozen Arca Swiss cubes in it ;-)
But if I had a dozen Arca Swiss cubes I would never store more than one at a time in a Louis Vuiton suitcase. So it would be necessary to buy at least a dozen suitcases.
I think I'll get one RRS ballhead instead.
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I saw The Cube live in person last week. All I can say is once you touch one, a ballhead seems so, well, ordinary.
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After seeing one in person in Death Valley, I had to get one as well. I skipped the case, as I doubt I'd ever use it, and it clearly isn't worth the money. The Cube is fantastic, however, and I'm now going to be selling my RRS 55 ballhead. It's that good.
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Whatever happened to the Photo Clam knockoff (The Multiflex or something like that)? Were they sued back to the stone age?
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Whatever happened to the Photo Clam knockoff (The Multiflex or something like that)? Were they sued back to the stone age?
Last I heard they were still making it, but the US distributor of Photoclam products doesn't carry it. So you would have to buy it direct from Asia.
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Last I heard they were still making it, but the US distributor of Photoclam products doesn't carry it. So you would have to buy it direct from Asia.
You can find them on ebay for around 12-1300 dollars now. Claims they are new but unclear of the seller. Price difference at this point is only a few hundred dollars.
I decided to get the real thing. Bought mine from Capture Integration, paid a little more but think they would stand behind it better than B&H would. I remember in the review here on LuLa there was an issue and B&H wouldn't resolve it, so Jack had to fix it himself.
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If you're looking fo service, buy an A-S cube from Jeff at (badgergraphic dot com) a stand up guy. I've done business wit him for 12 years now, never a problem.
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One thing about the Cube, is that the lever-release clamp that comes with it really sucks (it's also used on a couple of their ballheads). Not only does it not seem very well made, but you'll have to file down a part to get it to work with RRS plates and brackets. Better yet, just remove it and replace it with a RRS clamp, much better.
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I have heard of the problem you mentioned but I didn't have to modify the clamp on my cube at all and it works perfectly. Perhaps the production was modified to rectify the problem.
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Now, if Arca would just integrate stepper motors on all three axes, we could do panning time-lapse.
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I have heard of the problem you mentioned but I didn't have to modify the clamp on my cube at all and it works perfectly. Perhaps the production was modified to rectify the problem.
Maybe, or you may have gotten lucky and your plates/brackets happened to fit. I found the clamp just a little too tight for my L-Bracket even when using the built-in adjustment. I don't think they've changed the design of the clamp unless it was very recently, because they use the same P1 ballhead which I purchased not long ago for my smallest tripod, and it had the same issue.
My other complaint with this clamp is that it's made to be adjustible, and as a result the adjustment screw can work loose over time and needs to be periodically tightened. All in all the Arca lever clamp just doesn't seem as secure or well-made as the RRS clamps, so I feel better using the RRS clamps.
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and as a result the adjustment screw can work loose over time and needs to be periodically tightened.
Blue Loc-Tite 242 works wonders on that sort of thing. I originally started using it on rifle scope mount screws (the vibration of firing and recoil will loosen any untreated screw not tightened within a hairsbreadth of stripping or breaking off the head), but it works great on tripod heads or any application where you don't want the screw to move, but want to be able to disassemble the thing if you need to. It grips tightly enough to keep the screw from moving even under extreme vibration conditions such as gunfire, but not so tightly you'll twist the screw head off trying to remove it. It's also great for laptop screws that tend to loosen over time.
Simply remove the screw, put just enough LocTite on it to coat the threads, and reinstall, tightening as necessary. After an hour or so, the screw will not move unless you intentionally move it. A small tube like this is enough for dozens of normal screws:
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Threadlocker...r/dp/B0015PI75E (http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Threadlocker-Medium-Strength-color/dp/B0015PI75E)
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http://www.tripodballhead.com/ (http://www.tripodballhead.com/)
You can buy them direct from Korea for $985 USD.
I have one and it's great.
When I bought mine the Cube was $2600 USD
They (AS) dropped the price to $1600 USD,because so many people were buying the Multiflex instead.
Would I still pay $600 more for the Cube?
No, I sold my RRS BH-55 and got a Ballhead from Photoclam as well.
Both are excellent products,but yes there are copies,so if you have an issue with that,buy the real thing.
Most shooters on GetDpi and LL are cashed up amateurs anyway!
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One thing about the Cube, is that the lever-release clamp that comes with it really sucks (it's also used on a couple of their ballheads). Not only does it not seem very well made, but you'll have to file down a part to get it to work with RRS plates and brackets. Better yet, just remove it and replace it with a RRS clamp, much better.
I find the two position Arca Clamp lock to be very nice. Open the lever 90 degrees to scoot the camera forward or back. Open it 180 degrees to unmount the camera. No filing needed. Mine is about two years old and has worked fine with Arca, RSS, and other plates. Easy to adjust and very secure. For me it is a nice combination of having a quick release for speed, but with built in safety so it cannot be opened accidentally. I am also using the RSS quick release and an Arca screw release as well. The Arca Quick release is my favorite. It is best with this clamp to use plates all from the same company, so that no adjustment is needed between cameras.
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A note on the Arca lever clamp. First, understand it is a 2-position lever. The first position is the stop at 90 degrees out and is designed to loosen the plate enough it will slide but cannot be lifted directly out. (If you use an RRS plate and have the stop screws in the bottom for example, the plate slide for adjustment, but cannot slide all the way out.) Now you notice the exposed screw on the underside of the lever has ridges -- these are there so you can push your thumb against them, then slide the screw outward further to release the first position lock. Now you can fold the lever all the way back on the clamp to 180 degrees open. Here the jaws are wide enough the plate can be lifted directly out of the clamp. IMO, this is a pretty neat feature and why I like the Arca clamp.
What I had to modify on mine was the cam on the lever at the first stop position -- it would not open enough to allow plates to slide if the clamp was tight enough to hold them locked when closed. The full open position was fine though. It appears Arca has corrected the profile on the cams in the later builds.
Sidebar note: Arca now has a small dovetail as standard they are using for some of their new tech cameras. This is basically the same dovetail that is on the base of their LF rails. Anyway, if you look at pictures of the new Z1 heads, you can see the clamps now accommodate BOTH the regular and smaller dovetails. I'd be interested to know if the new Cube has this same double-dovetail clamp?
PS: I agree the RRS lever is a nice solution, but it isn't adjustable (so only works reliably with RRS plates), isn't 2-position and most importantly it doesn't lock. So a word of caution if you use them: I have had more than one workshop participant snag that lever on a jacket sleeve or glove edge and open it unknowingly, only to have their gear fall off their tripod unexpectedly -- not pretty to watch.
Cheers,
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Now, if Arca would just integrate stepper motors on all three axes, we could do panning time-lapse.
Pick up a Goto or computer controlled telescope mount, such as those from Vixen or iOptron. Can be controlled by a laptop and most are programmable. These and similar mounts from Celestron and Meade show up on ebay at reasonable prices.
Can be fairly easily modified for camera work, there's one outfit that markets one for just this purpose.
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A note on the Arca lever clamp. First, understand it is a 2-position lever. The first position is the stop at 90 degrees out and is designed to loosen the plate enough it will slide but cannot be lifted directly out. (If you use an RRS plate and have the stop screws in the bottom for example, the plate slide for adjustment, but cannot slide all the way out.) Now you notice the exposed screw on the underside of the lever has ridges -- these are there so you can push your thumb against them, then slide the screw outward further to release the first position lock. Now you can fold the lever all the way back on the clamp to 180 degrees open. Here the jaws are wide enough the plate can be lifted directly out of the clamp. IMO, this is a pretty neat feature and why I like the Arca clamp.
What I had to modify on mine was the cam on the lever at the first stop position -- it would not open enough to allow plates to slide if the clamp was tight enough to hold them locked when closed. The full open position was fine though. It appears Arca has corrected the profile on the cams in the later builds.
Sidebar note: Arca now has a small dovetail as standard they are using for some of their new tech cameras. This is basically the same dovetail that is on the base of their LF rails. Anyway, if you look at pictures of the new Z1 heads, you can see the clamps now accommodate BOTH the regular and smaller dovetails. I'd be interested to know if the new Cube has this same double-dovetail clamp?
PS: I agree the RRS lever is a nice solution, but it isn't adjustable (so only works reliably with RRS plates), isn't 2-position and most importantly it doesn't lock. So a word of caution if you use them: I have had more than one workshop participant snag that lever on a jacket sleeve or glove edge and open it unknowingly, only to have their gear fall off their tripod unexpectedly -- not pretty to watch.
Cheers,
Received my cube today. The quick release seems to work fine without modifications, however, I'm a little nervous that it doesn't adjust enough. If you leave it loose enough to easily slide the camera, it won't lock down firm enough to prevent sliding the camera, although it does take some force. I think it will be fine, just require some fine tuning of the adjustment wheel.
In answer to your question, the head does appear to have two sets of dovetail openings, one for a smaller plate.
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Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd tag my question about the cube here.
When in Death Valley, Mark Dubovoy showed how he had mounted his cube on some fairly large quick release system, so it could easily be removed and placed in his backpack. I assume it was some time of quick release for a large video camera.
I usually don't remove the head except when traveling, but this one costs so much I think would prefer packing mine away except when in use as well. Anyone have recommendations on brand/models that might work for this?
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Pick up a Goto or computer controlled telescope mount, such as those from Vixen or iOptron. Can be controlled by a laptop and most are programmable. These and similar mounts from Celestron and Meade show up on ebay at reasonable prices.
Can be fairly easily modified for camera work, there's one outfit that markets one for just this purpose.
Wow! That's a heck of a resource. Thanks, schrodingerscat. I can't believe you can purchase that hardware for a few hundred dollars.
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Received my cube today. The quick release seems to work fine without modifications, however, I'm a little nervous that it doesn't adjust enough. If you leave it loose enough to easily slide the camera, it won't lock down firm enough to prevent sliding the camera, although it does take some force. I think it will be fine, just require some fine tuning of the adjustment wheel.
In answer to your question, the head does appear to have two sets of dovetail openings, one for a smaller plate.
Hi Wayne:
That lack of adjustability -- not quite open enough at half-mast if you lock the plate down tight when closed -- is exactly the problem I had. The upside is the lever is Delrin or equivalent and easy to shape with a diamond nail file. Just flatten out the curve a bit at the back. After you tweak it, you should be able to lock a plate down tight when closed, yet will slide easily at half-mast. Then fully open it should drop in, pop out. (Caution: When you unscrew the adjustment wheel to remove the lever, pay attention to the order of the spring washers next to the adjustment wheel as they can fall free once the lever is removed. There are also a pair of springs under the jaw to pay attention to.)
Good to hear on the new QR clamp -- I'll have to order one.
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I use a multiflex too. not only was it 1700$ cheaper than the cube when I bought it there were two advantages:
- better arca clamp design, eats any arca style plate I have, contrary to the RRS clamps I use
- attachable larger knobs, which really helps with fine adjustments
I have used it daily for the last year or so, works perfectly like the first day.
I am not shure whether I would buy the real thing, even if the price was closer.
and btw: Photo Clam even has a website! I am not buying any Arca stuff until they have a website.
I know I get flamed mentioning that i bought a rip-off concerning copy right infringement. But everybody seems to be happily using RRS and Kirk clamps and plates, aren't these also Arca rip-offs? Especially as Arca seems not to be able to make them as good as everyone else.
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- attachable larger knobs, which really helps with fine adjustments
Any advice on how not to lose this removable larger knob? I lose a couple of bubble levels every year and see the same thing happening here.
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Any advice on how not to lose this removable larger knob? I lose a couple of bubble levels every year and see the same thing happening here.
as a precaution I just ordered a few more of these, because they tend to fall off if you tilt one axis too much, but, although they fell to the ground many times, I haven't lost one yet.
I usually keep them in the tripod bag till I have set up and roughly aimed, then attach them where needed.
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Hi Wayne:
That lack of adjustability -- not quite open enough at half-mast if you lock the plate down tight when closed -- is exactly the problem I had. The upside is the lever is Delrin or equivalent and easy to shape with a diamond nail file. Just flatten out the curve a bit at the back. After you tweak it, you should be able to lock a plate down tight when closed, yet will slide easily at half-mast. Then fully open it should drop in, pop out. (Caution: When you unscrew the adjustment wheel to remove the lever, pay attention to the order of the spring washers next to the adjustment wheel as they can fall free once the lever is removed. There are also a pair of springs under the jaw to pay attention to.)
Good to hear on the new QR clamp -- I'll have to order one.
I see ... you're letting the jaws open slightly wider when in the 90 degree position. I'll take a look at that.
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I see ... you're letting the jaws open slightly wider when in the 90 degree position. I'll take a look at that.
Exactly.
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Do you mean that one ? photo clam multiflex geared head (http://www.tripodballhead.com/2009/02/photo-clam-multiflex-geared-head_23.html) is it as good and as solid as the ARCA Cube ?
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After seeing one in person in Death Valley, I had to get one as well. The Cube is fantastic, however, and I'm now going to be selling my RRS 55 ballhead. It's that good.
I just asked the question 'why' over at GetDPI and I haven't got any answers that helped me understand. I just want to understand how you work with one, and why you would dice your ballhead to get one. I hated geared heads in the past with all the fiddling and adjustment with multiple knobs. Is there some magic that makes this more usable?
I don't want to be a naysayer, I just want to understand what all the fuss is about, and, more particularly, how you work with one. I will be getting an H4D in the new year so this seems like a good time to have a look at my gear.
Cheers,
Jeff
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I just asked the question 'why' over at GetDPI and I haven't got any answers that helped me understand. I just want to understand how you work with one, and why you would dice your ballhead to get one. I hated geared heads in the past with all the fiddling and adjustment with multiple knobs. Is there some magic that makes this more usable?
I don't want to be a naysayer, I just want to understand what all the fuss is about, and, more particularly, how you work with one. I will be getting an H4D in the new year so this seems like a good time to have a look at my gear.
Cheers,
Jeff
I didn't get rid of my ballhead to get a cube. They are completely different and can be used for different applications. The cube will give you a precise framing of the subject with individual self-locking adjustment (side to side tilt. fore and aft tilt). Also, pan from the base of the cube and pan at the top clamp is available although these have a manual lock-unlock. The build quality is superb and it is fairly light although I don't recall the exact weight. If you are in need of a more rapid adjustment for use with a moving subject a ball head would be, IMO, a better way to go.
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I just asked the question 'why' over at GetDPI and I haven't got any answers that helped me understand. I just want to understand how you work with one, and why you would dice your ballhead to get one. I hated geared heads in the past with all the fiddling and adjustment with multiple knobs. Is there some magic that makes this more usable?
I don't want to be a naysayer, I just want to understand what all the fuss is about, and, more particularly, how you work with one. I will be getting an H4D in the new year so this seems like a good time to have a look at my gear.
Cheers,
Jeff
If you've used geared heads and disliked them in the past, you may not like the cube. Although I will say the shape of the cube and the placement of the knobs makes it pretty easy to operate while looking through the viewfinder. Another nice convenience is that the second panning axis on top make shooting panos a little more convenient.
The main reason to prefer a geared head to a ballhead is precision. Ballheads are good when you want fast operation and aren't too picky about lining everything up perfectly. Geared heads are the way to go when you want precise alignment on each axis. Being able to make small adjustments to one axis at a time without throwing off the other two is something that ballheads just aren't suited for, and as a result I find them incredibly frustrating.
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I just asked the question 'why' over at GetDPI and I haven't got any answers that helped me understand. I just want to understand how you work with one, and why you would dice your ballhead to get one. I hated geared heads in the past with all the fiddling and adjustment with multiple knobs. Is there some magic that makes this more usable?
I don't want to be a naysayer, I just want to understand what all the fuss is about, and, more particularly, how you work with one. I will be getting an H4D in the new year so this seems like a good time to have a look at my gear.
Cheers,
Jeff
I don't find it to be an either/or proposition. I use the Cube for landscape shooting with my D3x and still use an Arca B1G for nature work where I want a much faster ability to change the camera position. For landscape I really appreciate the precision of the Cube.
As you said though, if you didn't like geared heads then the Cube may not be for you. It is a lot faster and easier to use than the geared heads I've used in the past though. (As it SHOULD!!!).
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I don't find it to be an either/or proposition. I use the Cube for landscape shooting with my D3x and still use an Arca B1G for nature work where I want a much faster ability to change the camera position. For landscape I really appreciate the precision of the Cube.
As you said though, if you didn't like geared heads then the Cube may not be for you. It is a lot faster and easier to use than the geared heads I've used in the past though. (As it SHOULD!!!).
Thanks Graham. I'm starting to see the advantages.
Cheers,
Jeff
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Do these gear heads (Arca or Photoclam) have a freewheel function? The gear heads used on movie cameras (nearly identical design) can disengage the pan and tilt gears for rapid repositioning. They also have three speeds (gear ratios) for each axis.
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Do these gear heads (Arca or Photoclam) have a freewheel function? The gear heads used on movie cameras (nearly identical design) can disengage the pan and tilt gears for rapid repositioning. They also have three speeds (gear ratios) for each axis.
The gears cannot be disengaged on the Cube, they're always in effect. You may prefer the Bogen design, where the gears can be temporarily disengaged, but in practice I've found that using the Cube is not any slower than the Bogen/Manfrotto. Note that the two panning axes on the Cube are not geared at all, only the fore/aft and left/right tilt axes are geared.
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After seeing one in person in Death Valley, I had to get one as well. I skipped the case, as I doubt I'd ever use it, and it clearly isn't worth the money. The Cube is fantastic, however, and I'm now going to be selling my RRS 55 ballhead. It's that good.
Brent, I am still looking around for a ball head to use both on my 35mm and LF Toyo. The 55 has come into my view among others but want to make sure that with the LF, I will be satisfied since my current head has the 3 handles and I am comfortable with this type but not my particular one for the newly purchased Toyo. What have you used the 55 with? Any comments on ballhead vs traditional 3 lever heads for LF. If selling the 55, when and how much? Take care and have a great Christmas and New Year. Joe Dragon
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Brent, I am still looking around for a ball head to use both on my 35mm and LF Toyo. The 55 has come into my view among others but want to make sure that with the LF, I will be satisfied since my current head has the 3 handles and I am comfortable with this type but not my particular one for the newly purchased Toyo. What have you used the 55 with? Any comments on ballhead vs traditional 3 lever heads for LF. If selling the 55, when and how much? Take care and have a great Christmas and New Year. Joe Dragon
You can contact me at my email, jdragonfineart@yahoo.com
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I just asked the question 'why' over at GetDPI and I haven't got any answers that helped me understand. I just want to understand how you work with one, and why you would dice your ballhead to get one. I hated geared heads in the past with all the fiddling and adjustment with multiple knobs. Is there some magic that makes this more usable?
I don't want to be a naysayer, I just want to understand what all the fuss is about, and, more particularly, how you work with one. I will be getting an H4D in the new year so this seems like a good time to have a look at my gear.
Cheers,
Jeff
In studio and when on location shooting landscapes, I was forever fiddling with the ballheads to get precise framing, and generally would just shoot a smidge wider than I wanted to so I'd have some play room after the fact. Even with bubbles and in-camera levels, I found it at times tricky to get dead level, and to move the framing up a quarter centimeter without kicking the yaw out of alignemnt.
The cube has cured all this instantly, and framing is now 2-second simple. I like it in the field (though it is heavy) but love it in studio.
I had a pair of ball-heads, with the RRS being my 'heavy duty' option. I'd added an acra-tech GV for travel (it's really light, and can act as an impromtu gimbal). So this I will keep for when I need to keep pace with fast moving objects or to stuff in the carry-on for travel-light times. I didn't mean to imply ALL ballheads were getting turfed b/c of the cube - just that I now have a new 'heavy-duty' option.
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Brent, I am still looking around for a ball head to use both on my 35mm and LF Toyo. The 55 has come into my view among others but want to make sure that with the LF, I will be satisfied since my current head has the 3 handles and I am comfortable with this type but not my particular one for the newly purchased Toyo. What have you used the 55 with? Any comments on ballhead vs traditional 3 lever heads for LF. If selling the 55, when and how much? Take care and have a great Christmas and New Year. Joe Dragon
I'm only just now moving to MF, so I've only used the 55 with my current lineup - but that inclues a 300 2.8 and a 400 DO. Not the longest or heaviest of canon's lenses, but up there, and when combined with the 1 series bodies and RRS L brackets, about the heaviest combos I'd stick on something not a wimbly or similar.
The 55 is rock steady, and a darn impressive piece of machined kit. Looks and feels solid and well designed.
I'm certainly selling, and likely for 70% new cost, plus shipping, which is my usual price point for selling gear in good condition. And the 55 is in pristine condition, given that I used it only in studio.
All this said, geared heads offer you more precision. The ball heads, at least for me, are faster, more flexible and somewhat less bulky than the gearheads, but if you have less-than steady hands (like me), then they can be a bit of a challenge to master absolute precise framing.
B
PS - if you're still interested, ping me here or email me at alteregohalifax@mac.com about the 55. I haven't posted it anywhere yet, and am at the in-laws for the holidays, so won't be able to attend to it til the 29th, but if you're interested, I'm happier to sell to someone on here than elsewhere.
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One thing about the Cube, is that the lever-release clamp that comes with it really sucks (it's also used on a couple of their ballheads). Not only does it not seem very well made, but you'll have to file down a part to get it to work with RRS plates and brackets. Better yet, just remove it and replace it with a RRS clamp, much better.
This is completely wrong. I have the cube and have had absolutely no problem with the lever or a need to file it down. Problem is that people try to muscle the lever instead of learning how to operate it. The lever works VERY smoothly and requires little to no effort at all if done properly.
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This is completely wrong. I have the cube and have had absolutely no problem with the lever or a need to file it down. Problem is that people try to muscle the lever instead of learning how to operate it. The lever works VERY smoothly and requires little to no effort at all if done properly.
I just picked up a cube last week and confirm this, too. First thing I did was test it to make sure it worked well with my 1DsM3 RRS L plate. It works fine.
Arca-Swiss would do better by having clearer instructions that the lever is two steps and that the second step works differently from the first. How about a web site (long called for by many folks), YouTube video, or something other than a poorly done Xeroxed diagram?....
Once you figure it out, it's a piece of cake.
The instructions do mention what to do but the diagram stops short of showing it well.
Site (http://www.jonroemer.com/) | Blog (http://www.jonroemer.com/blog/)
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I just picked up a cube last week and confirm this, too. First thing I did was test it to make sure it worked well with my 1DsM3 RRS L plate. It works fine.
Arca-Swiss would do better by having clearer instructions that the lever is two steps and that the second step works differently from the first. How about a web site (long called for by many folks), YouTube video, or something other than a poorly done Xeroxed diagram?....
Once you figure it out, it's a piece of cake.
The instructions do mention what to do but the diagram stops short of showing it well.
Site (http://www.jonroemer.com/) | Blog (http://www.jonroemer.com/blog/)
Agreed. Took me a while to figure out how to open the cube all the way. I was a little nervous at first, but seems that once you get the tension right, it worked quite well. After getting used to it, I have no problem with it the way it is.
I am having a hard time breaking habits of just grabbing the camera and trying to loosen the ball, but I love how accurately I can position the camera, including very small tweaks. I'm using the artificial horizon on the p65 back to get it perfectly level ... so easy.
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This is completely wrong. I have the cube and have had absolutely no problem with the lever or a need to file it down. Problem is that people try to muscle the lever instead of learning how to operate it. The lever works VERY smoothly and requires little to no effort at all if done properly.
It has nothing to do with "muscling the lever" or not knowing how it works. The first open position was too tight to allow my l-brackets to slide back and forth like they should, unless I filed it the lever down. That's just the way it worked. If your brackets fit better, then hey that's great for you. Maybe Arca-Swiss has some QA consistencies to work on. I still think the RRS clamps are better made.
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I don't think that Arca-Swiss has any problem with design or quality control. As has been pointed out, the clamp works in two stages. The instructions might be more clear, but if you are careful to use both stages of the clamp lever it works well and allows top loading of RRS plates. Here's how it works:
The initial opening of the lever is fairly obvious; move the silver button toward the end of the lever and swing the lever out until it stops in a position perpendicular to the clamp.
Then, look at the silver shaft that is exposed to view on the back side of the lever. Notice the repetitive conical shapes? Ok. With your right thumb over the exposed stepped shaft, grasp the lever between your right index finger and right thumb, place your thumbnail on one of the steps at the base of a conical shape and draw the shaft toward your palm (the distal end of the lever) then when it stops at the end of its travel, gently move the lever forward until it rests parallel to the clamp body.
The jaws of the clamp are now open enough to top load an RRS plate.
TA DA!
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Agreed. Took me a while to figure out how to open the cube all the way. I was a little nervous at first, but seems that once you get the tension right, it worked quite well. After getting used to it, I have no problem with it the way it is.
I am having a hard time breaking habits of just grabbing the camera and trying to loosen the ball, but I love how accurately I can position the camera, including very small tweaks. I'm using the artificial horizon on the p65 back to get it perfectly level ... so easy.
Can't wait til i get my camera - that artificial horizon + cube is going to make my life much easier, as I had such difficulty, even with the bubble.
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It has nothing to do with "muscling the lever" or not knowing how it works. The first open position was too tight to allow my l-brackets to slide back and forth like they should, unless I filed it the lever down. That's just the way it worked. If your brackets fit better, then hey that's great for you. Maybe Arca-Swiss has some QA consistencies to work on. I still think the RRS clamps are better made.
When I got mine, the adjustable jaws were set to their tightest position, and i experienced the same situation, until I loosened the twirly wheel, and now things work great. A *very big* caution, however - the screw can pop a spring if turned too far, so go very slowly, keep a finger pressed against the screw hole, and take note of the assembly in case things go off. Here the design is less than great, imo.
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I don't think that Arca-Swiss has any problem with design or quality control. As has been pointed out, the clamp works in two stages. The instructions might be more clear, but if you are careful to use both stages of the clamp lever it works well and allows top loading of RRS plates. Here's how it works:
The initial opening of the lever is fairly obvious; move the silver button toward the end of the lever and swing the lever out until it stops in a position perpendicular to the clamp.
Then, look at the silver shaft that is exposed to view on the back side of the lever. Notice the repetitive conical shapes? Ok. With your right thumb over the exposed stepped shaft, grasp the lever between your right index finger and right thumb, place your thumbnail on one of the steps at the base of a conical shape and draw the shaft toward your palm (the distal end of the lever) then when it stops at the end of its travel, gently move the lever forward until it rests parallel to the clamp body.
The jaws of the clamp are now open enough to top load an RRS plate.
TA DA!
One more time.... I understand how the Cube's clamp works, and I know how to open it fully. But when it's open halfway, the clearance is too tight for my l-bracket to slide back and forth. You might think this a minor thing, and depending on your exact equipment you might not even have this problem. But it's a problem for me. I often flat-stitch with a shift lens, and I need to be able to move the camera side-to-side to avoid parallax. I don't want to have to open the clamp up all the way to do that, because it's less secure.