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Author Topic: Part 2: "Becoming A Great Arch. Photographer  (Read 130018 times)

Lust4Life

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Part 2: "Becoming A Great Arch. Photographer
« Reply #120 on: November 19, 2009, 02:34:12 pm »

For your AP work, has anyone tried the Leica or Zeiss prime lenses for Canon or Nikon, and if so, what were your impressions?

Jack
« Last Edit: November 19, 2009, 02:36:36 pm by Lust4Life »
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CBarrett

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Part 2: "Becoming A Great Arch. Photographer
« Reply #121 on: November 19, 2009, 02:42:49 pm »

Quote from: Lust4Life
For your AP work, has anyone tried the Leica or Zeiss prime lenses for Canon or Nikon, and if so, what were your impressions?

Jack


Do the dslr AP shooters use non-t/s lenses?  I have the Zeiss 85 f/1.4 and 35 f2 for my D3 and I like them overall, but they're not as sharp as the Phamiya D glass.
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Kirk Gittings

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« Reply #122 on: November 19, 2009, 02:59:36 pm »

Quote from: Lust4Life
For your AP work, has anyone tried the Leica or Zeiss prime lenses for Canon or Nikon, and if so, what were your impressions?

Jack

I did some testing of wide prime lenses with friends lenses when I first got into digital with a 5D. Unfortunately I use a fair amount of rise and fall. So to use a prime meant considerable perspective correction (ie stretching=interpolation) in Photoshop. That interpolation, on the lenses I tested on a 5D, all but negated the quality advantage of a prime. There is a question of file size here though. The larger the native file size for a given size output the less the PC interpolation will be evident. For example a 5D file at 8x10 will show less interpolation artifacts than a MF file will at 8x10.

Besides that there is the question of composition and primes. I spent 28 years making my living with a 4x5 shooting architecture before switching to digital. Personally I cannot accurately or elegantly compose an image in the field without corrected perspective and I believe from my teaching experience that the strongest composition occurs in the field.
« Last Edit: November 19, 2009, 03:04:14 pm by Kirk Gittings »
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Kirk Gittings

asf

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« Reply #123 on: November 19, 2009, 03:07:43 pm »

I don't use non-ts lenses except when shooting longer than the 90. I haven't found a non-ts lens that doesn't show objectionable distortion, and that includes the Zeiss lenses.
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Lust4Life

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« Reply #124 on: November 19, 2009, 05:36:46 pm »

Between you and Kirk, that's good news.  I can avoid that expense and stick with the Tilt/Shift and one long lens;  Rainer's formular.

Jack

Quote from: asf
I don't use non-ts lenses except when shooting longer than the 90. I haven't found a non-ts lens that doesn't show objectionable distortion, and that includes the Zeiss lenses.

MarcusNewey

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« Reply #125 on: November 19, 2009, 05:46:15 pm »

Quote from: marc gerritsen
Of course it slows me down a bit when i use it, it works best with one assistant who knows
how to light or alternatively I hold the light and someone just clicks.
With 35mm cameras you could set up an automatic exposure every 10 seconds
and point the light somewhere else without any assistance.

m

Marc, with a few pocket wizards you could easily do this technique without the need for an assistant, nor using the intervalometer:
one pair to trigger the camera, and another pair triggering the strobe from the cameras' hot shoe.

Here's a gif file I made of the first time I tried this technique: http://www.home-tour.co.uk/info/5strobegif.html
[my sb's batteries were dying, and rather than go three floors down to replenish, I lit the scene with just one strobe]. I was moving between the rooms with a strobe and an rf trigger for the camera, in this case I was able to hide myself so the PP was a simple case of layering using the 'lighten' blend mode.
Just a 'Real Estate' shot on a D200, so forgive me for butting in on an Architectural / LF thread with my first post :-) but I thought you might find the info useful.
I think http://www.atticfire.com/ use this technique extensively [along with aggressive PP].

BTW, thanks to all for a great pair of threads.
« Last Edit: November 19, 2009, 05:49:49 pm by MarcusNewey »
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marc gerritsen

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« Reply #126 on: November 20, 2009, 05:57:21 am »

Quote from: MarcusNewey
Marc, with a few pocket wizards you could easily do this technique without the need for an assistant, nor using the intervalometer:
one pair to trigger the camera, and another pair triggering the strobe from the cameras' hot shoe.

Here's a gif file I made of the first time I tried this technique: http://www.home-tour.co.uk/info/5strobegif.html
[my sb's batteries were dying, and rather than go three floors down to replenish, I lit the scene with just one strobe]. I was moving between the rooms with a strobe and an rf trigger for the camera, in this case I was able to hide myself so the PP was a simple case of layering using the 'lighten' blend mode.
Just a 'Real Estate' shot on a D200, so forgive me for butting in on an Architectural / LF thread with my first post :-) but I thought you might find the info useful.
I think http://www.atticfire.com/ use this technique extensively [along with aggressive PP].

BTW, thanks to all for a great pair of threads.


thanks for the tip, will follow up on it
cheers
m
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Lust4Life

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« Reply #127 on: November 20, 2009, 11:40:22 am »

The link to Atticfire - quite interesting where you can see the image they started with (Before) in comparison to what they gave their client.

Anyone have more details on the workflow to accomplish such dramatic results?

Jack



Quote from: MarcusNewey
Marc, with a few pocket wizards you could easily do this technique without the need for an assistant, nor using the intervalometer:
one pair to trigger the camera, and another pair triggering the strobe from the cameras' hot shoe.

Here's a gif file I made of the first time I tried this technique: http://www.home-tour.co.uk/info/5strobegif.html
[my sb's batteries were dying, and rather than go three floors down to replenish, I lit the scene with just one strobe]. I was moving between the rooms with a strobe and an rf trigger for the camera, in this case I was able to hide myself so the PP was a simple case of layering using the 'lighten' blend mode.
Just a 'Real Estate' shot on a D200, so forgive me for butting in on an Architectural / LF thread with my first post :-) but I thought you might find the info useful.
I think http://www.atticfire.com/ use this technique extensively [along with aggressive PP].

BTW, thanks to all for a great pair of threads.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2009, 11:40:59 am by Lust4Life »
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Lust4Life

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« Reply #128 on: November 26, 2009, 06:08:47 am »

FOR THOSE SHOOTING TECH CAMERA WITH MFDB:

In an email exchange with Rene at Cambo (a chap that I have always found very helpful and knowledgeable), he confirmed a point that was raised by a buddy of mine, Chris Snipes:
***********
Hello Jack,
 
the Lens Cast is a phenomena that occurs with any digital back make and shows with ultra short focal lengths as well as with rather firm shifts,
and not necessarily with the more normal focal lengths.
 
this is NOT related to the make of the camerabody. It occurs with Alpa, Arca, Cambo, Horseman, Linhof, Sinar similar with the same lenses.
Lenscast is actually a wrong name, as it is not the lens who casts an effect, but it is the behavior of the CCD's. It is also different from one CCD to another CCD,
even within the same make and size...
 
PhaseOne uses the LCC (Lens Cast Calibration)
Hasselblad uses the Custom White
Leaf uses their Custom Gain
 
all for the same purpose.
 
Every architectural shooter works like that, it is just part of the work flow, compare to the necessary pulling and inserting the dark slide in the film days...
 
best regards,
Rene Rook
Cambo

************
I think that for anyone considering using a Tech Pan camera/MFDB for AP, this element of the work flow should be considered.

Are those of you using a TechPan shooting a Lens Cast file for every setup/scene?

Are those shooting DSLR doing the same?
(I've used the ExpoDisc for my landscape work to get a good WB.)

Jack
« Last Edit: November 26, 2009, 06:09:47 am by Lust4Life »
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CBarrett

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Part 2: "Becoming A Great Arch. Photographer
« Reply #129 on: November 26, 2009, 08:28:53 am »

Quote from: Lust4Life
Are those of you using a TechPan shooting a Lens Cast file for every setup/scene?

Are those shooting DSLR doing the same?
(I've used the ExpoDisc for my landscape work to get a good WB.)

Jack


Yes, the LCC is a given.  It's just become part of my bracket.  I usually shoot one in the middle of my bracket so I always know which shot it belongs to.  What I love about CO 5 is that the LCC correction now also corrects for vignetting.  When shooting a DSLR, however, using LCC is greyed out, not even an option.  I believe the AA filter may take care of LCC in dslr/ts lens combos but not sure.

This is not part of the White Balancing but a calibration file to record color shift across the sensor. You would still typically need to shoot a WB separately.

-C
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Christopher

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« Reply #130 on: November 26, 2009, 08:28:57 am »

Quote from: Lust4Life
FOR THOSE SHOOTING TECH CAMERA WITH MFDB:

In an email exchange with Rene at Cambo (a chap that I have always found very helpful and knowledgeable), he confirmed a point that was raised by a buddy of mine, Chris Snipes:
***********
Hello Jack,
 
the Lens Cast is a phenomena that occurs with any digital back make and shows with ultra short focal lengths as well as with rather firm shifts,
and not necessarily with the more normal focal lengths.
 
this is NOT related to the make of the camerabody. It occurs with Alpa, Arca, Cambo, Horseman, Linhof, Sinar similar with the same lenses.
Lenscast is actually a wrong name, as it is not the lens who casts an effect, but it is the behavior of the CCD's. It is also different from one CCD to another CCD,
even within the same make and size...
 
PhaseOne uses the LCC (Lens Cast Calibration)
Hasselblad uses the Custom White
Leaf uses their Custom Gain
 
all for the same purpose.
 
Every architectural shooter works like that, it is just part of the work flow, compare to the necessary pulling and inserting the dark slide in the film days...
 
best regards,
Rene Rook
Cambo

************
I think that for anyone considering using a Tech Pan camera/MFDB for AP, this element of the work flow should be considered.

Are those of you using a TechPan shooting a Lens Cast file for every setup/scene?

Are those shooting DSLR doing the same?
(I've used the ExpoDisc for my landscape work to get a good WB.)

Jack

You don't need it for 35 mm SLRs.

For my LF camera and P65 I shoot one LCC image for every change I make. Mostly I could work with my presets, but to get a perfect correction it is better to have one fort every image. I don't think it is a major hassle. It just takes one more white image and processing in C1 is very easy and fast. Especially with C1 5.0 the new light falloff correction is even better.
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CBarrett

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« Reply #131 on: November 26, 2009, 08:43:46 am »

There you have it, the same response written at the same time from two Christophers.  There must be a disruption in the time/space continuum.
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Lust4Life

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« Reply #132 on: November 27, 2009, 09:25:13 pm »

Chris,

Noticed in another thread about lighting, you travel with quite a substantial array of gear.

As I'm not familiar with the size of any of these lights, stands, etc., what vehicle do you use to transport your gear to the work site?
Or better yet, what would be the ideal vehicle, that could still be used for a family car?

Jack



Quote from: CBarrett
There you have it, the same response written at the same time from two Christophers.  There must be a disruption in the time/space continuum.

CBarrett

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« Reply #133 on: November 27, 2009, 09:39:52 pm »

Quote from: Lust4Life
Chris,

Noticed in another thread about lighting, you travel with quite a substantial array of gear.

As I'm not familiar with the size of any of these lights, stands, etc., what vehicle do you use to transport your gear to the work site?
Or better yet, what would be the ideal vehicle, that could still be used for a family car?

Jack


Actually, it doesn't get too unwieldly... fits on a cart...


And easily into my Honda Element.  Minivans leave space to spare, most SUV's will just fit the gear with two passengers and 2 pieces of luggage.  My cases aren't huge and all from 35-50 lbs. What I dig about the Element is the back seats can easily be taken out or folded up out of the way and then you've got a really low deck which is easier on the back and when all the gear is loaded you still have full visibility.
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Lust4Life

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« Reply #134 on: November 28, 2009, 06:20:37 am »

Chris,

That's impressive and looks to be well thought out.

Yesterday I was out looking at vehicles - figured my 911-S Cabriolet was not going to be a good gear hauler - and simmered down to:
Prius - back seats fold down; great mileage = 51/48; adequate room - actually far more than I expected. (Figure I'd be driving across state to the east coast frequently for jobs.)
FJ Cruiser - gotta love the looks to it; back seats fold down and decent volume of space, but I doubt that all of the gear you show in the photo would fit, hmmmm; poor fuel economy (17/21)compared to Prius; rubber interior - take a garden hose to it and wash it out (works great for my Kiteboarding hobby with all that sand).
Highlander - 2010 redesign - gobs of room with seats up or folded down; marginal fuel economy = 17/24 EPA

Did not think of the Element (I don't fit in the CR-V or Pilot very well) - what are you getting for economy with it?
What do you like/dislike about it?

Jack
PS:  I added up the cost of the lights you carry, as listed in another thread, and came up with $12,187!!!
Sure makes Rainer's approach to few if any lights look REAL attractive!  :-)
And that does not include the stands, etc.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2009, 06:32:14 am by Lust4Life »
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Weldon Brewster

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« Reply #135 on: November 28, 2009, 09:49:28 am »

Years ago I had a Saab 900s and it held piles of stuff in it.  Full rolls of seamless without rolling down the windows.  Now, I have a Honda Element.  It's huge on the inside without the back seats.  More gear than my assistant wants to carry even with our cart :-)

I get roughly 25 mpg.  You can put 9 foot surfboards in there pretty easily.  I also take mine camping, you can roll down a 72 inch Thermarest without touching anything.  The only downside is the styling of the truck is not to everyone's taste but I like it.  I live in LA and with the traffic, I can't comment on acceleration.  It's only a 4 cylinder.

Funny that we all seem to have the same equipment even in cars.

Cheers,
Weldon
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Craig Lamson

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« Reply #136 on: November 28, 2009, 10:52:09 am »

Quote from: weldonb
Years ago I had a Saab 900s and it held piles of stuff in it.  Full rolls of seamless without rolling down the windows.  Now, I have a Honda Element.  It's huge on the inside without the back seats.  More gear than my assistant wants to carry even with our cart :-)

I get roughly 25 mpg.  You can put 9 foot surfboards in there pretty easily.  I also take mine camping, you can roll down a 72 inch Thermarest without touching anything.  The only downside is the styling of the truck is not to everyone's taste but I like it.  I live in LA and with the traffic, I can't comment on acceleration.  It's only a 4 cylinder.

Funny that we all seem to have the same equipment even in cars.

Cheers,
Weldon


I went from a large SUV to a full sized pickup to a minivan.  The Minivan is by far the best.  My wife however loves the Element.  Might have to give ne a try.

I had a 900s Turbo years ago, but the only thing it hauled was me, and boy...did it haul!
« Last Edit: November 28, 2009, 10:53:17 am by infocusinc »
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Harold Clark

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« Reply #137 on: November 28, 2009, 04:02:57 pm »

Quote from: infocusinc
I went from a large SUV to a full sized pickup to a minivan.  The Minivan is by far the best.  My wife however loves the Element.  Might have to give ne a try.

I had a 900s Turbo years ago, but the only thing it hauled was me, and boy...did it haul!

I drove Saabs for 20 years, was VP of the Saab Owners club of Canada at one time. They were great until GM got a hold of them. I now use an Audi A4, the wagon is great car.
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ASSEMBLY

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« Reply #138 on: November 28, 2009, 05:01:57 pm »

Quote from: Lust4Life
Chris,

That's impressive and looks to be well thought out.

Yesterday I was out looking at vehicles - figured my 911-S Cabriolet was not going to be a good gear hauler - and simmered down to:
Prius - back seats fold down; great mileage = 51/48; adequate room - actually far more than I expected. (Figure I'd be driving across state to the east coast frequently for jobs.)
FJ Cruiser - gotta love the looks to it; back seats fold down and decent volume of space, but I doubt that all of the gear you show in the photo would fit, hmmmm; poor fuel economy (17/21)compared to Prius; rubber interior - take a garden hose to it and wash it out (works great for my Kiteboarding hobby with all that sand).
Highlander - 2010 redesign - gobs of room with seats up or folded down; marginal fuel economy = 17/24 EPA

Did not think of the Element (I don't fit in the CR-V or Pilot very well) - what are you getting for economy with it?
What do you like/dislike about it?

Jack
PS:  I added up the cost of the lights you carry, as listed in another thread, and came up with $12,187!!!
Sure makes Rainer's approach to few if any lights look REAL attractive!  :-)
And that does not include the stands, etc.

I recently picked up an Audi A3 which fits all of my kit no problem.  The rear seats fold down and the hatchback allows easy loading and unloading.  The fuel economy is quite good as well (avg.  28mpg) and with 4-wheel drive I can make some ski trips in the winter.

Good luck car hunting!

CBarrett

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« Reply #139 on: November 28, 2009, 06:00:51 pm »

Quote from: SeanKarns
I recently picked up an Audi A3 which fits all of my kit no problem.  The rear seats fold down and the hatchback allows easy loading and unloading.  The fuel economy is quite good as well (avg.  28mpg) and with 4-wheel drive I can make some ski trips in the winter.

Good luck car hunting!

I want a cool, small car!  Maybe I should rethink my lighting....
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