Sorry, to clarify:
(1) this is mainly for my Dell U2415 monitor, which is an IPS LCD monitor.
(2) An important goal is to have my prints match (to the extent practicable) the appearance of the photo on the monitor. Although I realize the viewing lighting matters, and my house is mostly lit with halogen (incandescent-type) lighting, print appearance under sunlight and fluorescent is also of interest to me. Of course, on-screen tonal smoothness and viewable gamut are also significant to me.
Thanks!
I saw that later, but I can't find spec's on this in terms of panel
bit depth etc.
So the deal is this: some displays are only 6-8bits, not high bit. If you have such a display, AND you can live with potential banding due to this, AND you want a good screen to print match, then the number you pick (CCT or 'Standard illuminant'*) is the one that produces a match between display and print NEXT to the display. Otherwise, using a Native WP greatly reduces banding because you're simply profiling that behavior, not trying to adjust it. If I had such a display and I wasn't concerned with print matching (or "Native" was OK), I'd pick Native.
With a high bit panel (I'm using SpectraView), I can set any value until I get a match. With my viewing booth, that value is CCT 5150K; not 5100K, not 5200K etc. Again, the value itself is moot, it's trial and error to get that match.
** CCT is a range of colors. So one product may state CCT 5150K and produce another product with the same value may produce a different result. Many people, and even software products, use D65 and 6500K interchangeably as if they were identical. This is not the case. D65 is the exact color, it is not a range of colors, and the one object that actually produces this is 93 million miles away. The result of an average of color measurements all over the Earth averaged. Some software products specify D65 and 6500K as choices for white point. When you see this, the 6500K option refers to the exact color of a theoretical blackbody at 6500 Kelvin.
Drilling deeper:
Why are my prints too dark (or don’t match my display)?
A video update to a written piece on subject from 2013
In this 24 minute video, I'll cover:
Are your prints really too dark?
Display calibration and WYSIWYG
Proper print viewing conditions
Trouble shooting to get a match
Avoiding kludges that don't solve the problem
High resolution:
http://digitaldog.net/files/Why_are_my_prints_too_dark.mp4Low resolution:
https://youtu.be/iS6sjZmxjY4