Hahnemühle Protective Spray vs Timeless Gloss on gloss paper

[Ryan Mack]

I'm setting up a spray booth in my garage and I'm trying to figure out if I need to worry about using "explosion proof" fans.  I'd prefer to use cheap box fans.  I've previously used Hahnemühle Protective Spray without any fans (just with the garage door opens) but perhaps I should switch to hvlp spraying Timeless Gloss instead which isn't flammable. Anyone have thoughts on how Hahnemühle Protective Spray compares to spraying Timeless Gloss on gloss papers? I'm mostly printing on Hahnemühle Gloss Baryta or Hahnemühle Photo Silk Baryta. I suppose the Hahnemühle spray has the advantage of being ready-to-spray and I don't have to clean the hvlp sprayer, but I sure hate how long the smell lingers.

[John Nollendorfs]

Ryan:
Timeless gloss and Hahnemuhle protective spray are totally different kind of products and technique of spraying totally different.

Using the Timeless, you don't want to put on a heavy coat--more of a dusting type application, or you will be totally dissappointed. It's all in the technique of application. You will need to spend some time experimenting.

Regarding exhaust fans, unless you are doing lots and lots of spraying, I would not worry about it. You should cover anything in the room to protect it from the overspray. The Hahnemuhle spray of course is a solvent product, and of course potentially explosive if you get enough concentration in the room and have a point of ignition.

[faberryman]

I'm setting up a spray booth in my garage and I'm trying to figure out if I need to worry about using "explosion proof" fans.  I'd prefer to use cheap box fans.  I've previously used Hahnemühle Protective Spray without any fans (just with the garage door opens) but perhaps I should switch to hvlp spraying Timeless Gloss instead which isn't flammable. Anyone have thoughts on how Hahnemühle Protective Spray compares to spraying Timeless Gloss on gloss papers? I'm mostly printing on Hahnemühle Gloss Baryta or Hahnemühle Photo Silk Baryta. I suppose the Hahnemühle spray has the advantage of being ready-to-spray and I don't have to clean the hvlp sprayer, but I sure hate how long the smell lingers.

Why do you feel the need to spray anything on your inkjet prints?

[Ryan Mack]

Why do you feel the need to spray anything on your inkjet prints?

For the Hahnemühle gloss baryta it's extraordinarily easy to mar the surface so I like to spray it to provide a bit more physical resistance before dry mounting and framing. Second reason is to reduce the gloss differential (looks more like a silver gelatin print than inkjet). Third reason is it's a lot more affordable to frame with normal glass and a UV blocking spray than to buy UV blocking glass.

[deanwork]

Those are all really good reasons to coat an inkjet print and why I do it also. And also to discourage the absorption of environmental contaminants that are attracted like a sponge to inkjet receptor coatings. However in the latter issue you should also seal the back of the print by spraying it also. At this point I wouldn’t consider making a portfolio that is to be handled without coating them.

I’m been doing what you are starting for a long time. I use the solvent sprays like Premiere and Hah. For prints and Timeless only for canvas. The solvent sprays keep the papers unique surface qualities intact  regardless of what they are. Timeless and all the canvas varnishes I’ve tried make fine cotton papers look like plastic, as does satin, matte, or gloss film lamination.  I wish that wasn’t the case as I have a nice Fuji sprayer and film lamination allows lightweight large prints without frames or plexi .

With either the solvents or the acrylic/laytex varnishes you should always wear a good respirator that is charcoal filtered, and good eye protection because the mist from any of these sprays can and will damage your eyes in the long term. I use tight fitting swimming goggles that I can see clearly through.

John

For the Hahnemühle gloss baryta it's extraordinarily easy to mar the surface so I like to spray it to provide a bit more physical resistance before dry mounting and framing. Second reason is to reduce the gloss differential (looks more like a silver gelatin print than inkjet). Third reason is it's a lot more affordable to frame with normal glass and a UV blocking spray than to buy UV blocking glass.

[mearussi]

Applying any water based coating to any paper can cause the paper to absorb the water and warp. You'd be better off staying with a solvent spray.

[John Nollendorfs]

I’m been doing what you are starting for a long time. I use the solvent sprays like Premiere and Hah. For prints and Timeless only for canvas. The solvent sprays keep the papers unique surface qualities intact  regardless of what they are. Timeless and all the canvas varnishes I’ve tried make fine cotton papers look like plastic, as does satin, matte, or gloss film lamination.  I wish that wasn’t the case as I have a nice Fuji sprayer and film lamination allows lightweight large prints without frames or plexi .



John

Spraying with the water based coating is possible, but you have to change your technique. You do not want to lay down a wet coat, like you can with the solvent sprays. You have to adjust your air spray mixture, and keep the spray gun higher off the art. A dusting type of technique. You do have to practice on samples to get it just right. Main thing is not to lay down a wet coat, which results in the plastic look that John is refering to with lots of surface imperfections.

[Robcat]

I use the Hahnemuhle Gloss Baryta and spray it with Clear Jet gloss or Premier Art Protective spray and have been satisfied with that. I agree that the gloss baryta is very delicate and needs protection. I put Timeless on canvas w a cheap Wagner HVLP but never thought to try it on paper---very curious about your results as it strikes me as not something to use. Let us know.  Wear a mask for the solvent spray but I wouldn't worry about fan for small jobs like a print.

[MfAlab]

Anyone have thoughts on how Hahnemühle Protective Spray compares to spraying Timeless Gloss on gloss papers?

a simple suggestion: solvent spray on papers, aqueous varnish on canvas

Timeless, and all the inkjet canvas aqueous varnishes, has a thick layer that will cover on paper and destroy all characteristics of a paper.

[dgberg]

a simple suggestion: solvent spray on papers, aqueous varnish on canvas

Timeless, and all the inkjet canvas aqueous varnishes, has a thick layer that will cover on paper and destroy all characteristics of a paper.

+1

[kers]

Is there any difference between the solvents- hahnemuhle protective spray vs  Premier Art Protective spray vs Clear Jet gloss?

I am used to Hahnemuhle only and like it so far.

[mearussi]

Is there any difference between the solvents- hahnemuhle protective spray vs  Premier Art Protective spray vs Clear Jet gloss?

I am used to Hahnemuhle only and like it so far.

Hahnemuhle, Moab and Premier Art are all similar in look. The only real difference is in how they spray. I prefer Premier Art because it has (IMHO) the best spray volume. It is also a little cheaper if bought  by the dozen (https://www.itsupplies.com/PremierArt-Print-Shield-Inkjet-Spray-Case-p/pa1950case.htm)

Clear Jet has a tendency to spit little blobs of gloss on the print making it look speckled with gloss spots--avoid.

[John Nollendorfs]

Spraygun tip:
Even a cheap $15 Harbour Freight HVLP gun using a compressor does a much better job than a "cheap" Wagner costing $70!