In my experience, it's very dependent on the lens, and if your setup is nodal and level. If you use a ultra wide, say 14mm to 20mm, even nodal you will find distortion as you pan (you can see objects distort as you pan across). This is worse if the lens is held in the landscape orientation. So for ultra wides, I usually go vertical and take more shots. With wides, the cylindrical solution often works better albeit with some loss of image on the right and left side.
In regards to movements, if your setup allows shifting the body, not the lens, (say with a tech camera) or a zork adapter on a 35mm camera, then you can stitch all day long, not worry about nodal points etc. and easily get a great solution rectilinear. You don't have to worry about being level either as you are only move the camera body or MF back. I use this all the time and get great results with stitched images. The main limitation is that 15mm tends to be the max movement with MF and 18mm with a zork and that won't really a true 3:1 pano image. But it's still a great image.
As much as I have stitched and panned over the years, with 35mm, I tend now to do everything hand held if the subject allows it then throw the images into PtGui and see what I get. Most times I will get a solution that works for me may not be rectilinear, but PtGui has a lot of different projections to try. You also can warp the final product a bit in CC to help square it out, but you have to watch this as you can start to lose detail pretty quick. You can do this in a landscape most times but not with a static known object like a building. Trees, rocks, etc. will easily blend together, they may be extended or warped a bit, but it all looks fine when put together with a good stitching product.
There are times, few now, that I still setup for a nodal stitch, but I find in my work I most times just don't need it.
Paul