^The canned and HVLP versions of Premie Art Print Shield seem to be identical. With HVLP you need a smallish cap aperture to get the atomization right. With the cans the atomization is so fine and wispy you must spray under almost windless conditions. Spray at about 10 inches from the art with the cans. The can sprays a round pattern, I would have greatly preferred an oval spray. The round pattern forces you to keep the cans moving in a roundish sub-pattern to adequately spread out the spray pattern, and each "coat" should include perhaps three passes across the print, one vertical, one horizontal, and one at an angle. Three such coats work very well for me, and for Fine Art Baryta and Silver Rag result in a slight increase in glossiness while producing a very resilient surface. I have not had any issues with gloss differential.
I have not tested a wide range of papers, and my assumption that Platine would coat well is based on comparing a sample pack sheet with Fine Art Baryta, they have very similar surfaces. The properties I like about Premier only apply to glossy papers. I can not get a truly resilient surface on matte papers which are still scuff prone after several coats, and which suffer a slight raise of d-max, and which can not be raised to a gloss the way that is possible with aqueous coatings.
I do not like the surface produced by Premier on "silky" and luster surfaces nearly as much as on full gloss paper. It's just a peeve of mine having to do with how surface reflections resolve on those kinds of media in display situations, either before or after coating.
Dust management is very easy with Premier. After each coat is completely dry, which takes maybe 2 minutes at 6000 ft altitude in arrid New Mexico, one simply wipes one's hand back and forth on the surface until it feels smooth. Dust does not easily adhere to the thin coats. It's so easy. Even dust that has been preset for more than 1 coat swipes off easily. The thickness of 3 Premier coats is probably less than 1 aqueous coat, while still being impressively tough.
The only reason for a paint booth is to control the overspray. The cans generate much more overspray than HVLP applied coats, even though both produce a lot. It's sort of like old-fashioned spray guns versus HVLP. I can not over emphasize how noxious solvent overspray is, if somebody without a mask walked into an enclosed room where you had been spraying they could easily be harmed, and there are even explosion risks. You have to very pro actively manage the overspray. Lacking a proper spray booth, work outside with a 2 mph wind at your back, wearing a mask with an organic filter, and with nobody present for at least 100 feet downwind. It's a problem. I am installing a vent system with a spray particle system that exhausts the overspray high above ground level, in a place where the prevailing wind gives more than 2000 feet of horizontal clearance to the next human presence.
I suspect Hahn and Premier both rebrand another OEM spray, I don't know what it is.
If you wish to proceed on this path please read every label on the materials and exercise every precaution on the side of abundant safety. And please note that safety recommendations that apply to aqueous coatings are generally not adequate for solvent coatings. Solvent is a whole different animal. In particular, the build up of overspray in poorly ventilated situations is a very serious issue.