Topic: Studio Light (Read 7626 times)

dwdallam · « **on:** December 23, 2005, 04:54:37 am »

After buying 3 AB 800s, I'm learning that ONE 800 and some good reflectors do the job quit nicely. This is especially true in my small area, since I need to get the stop down to 2.8 sometimes. It's almost impossible with two or three lights, even when turned all the way down.

Just thought I would mention that for those interested in their first studio strobes.

Jonathan Wienke · « **Reply #1 on:** December 23, 2005, 08:37:25 am »

That's why I got a pair of 400s and a pair of 800s; I have more flexibility to select the light with the power level appropriate to the task.

dwdallam · « **Reply #2 on:** December 23, 2005, 06:10:13 pm »

Quote

That's why I got a pair of 400s and a pair of 800s; I have more flexibility to select the light with the power level appropriate to the task.
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I originally was going to get two 400s and one 800. But it's workable. I can use Gobos to reduce light and reflectors instead of a second light.

By the way, Jon, do you have any ideas on what would make good makeshift reflectors and gobos? I checked out the car windshield reflectors today, the fold away nylon type. They look like they may work by hanging them on stands etc. I need to check for colors though. I can only find so far black and silver. I'd like to have a white one also, and perhaps a gold.

Any clever ideas about gobos too and how to use them with stands?

I'm trying to cut some costs, but even teh winshield reflectors are 12 bucks a pair. If it looks like I'll be spending 50% of total cost on makeshifts, I'll probably just buy the dedicated setup.

Hank · « **Reply #3 on:** December 23, 2005, 06:15:35 pm »

We use construction paper and artists board in black or white. It's cheap and the white is white. You can cut it, fold it, tape it, clamp it, whatever. If you ever need to use your slaved strobes in bright outdoor light, you can also fashion hoods over the slave to shade them from the sun or use white to reflect light into slaves in awkward locations. Best of all, the material is available in art supply stores wherever you travel.

dwdallam · « **Reply #4 on:** December 27, 2005, 02:26:05 am »

Quote

We use construction paper and artists board in black or white. It's cheap and the white is white. You can cut it, fold it, tape it, clamp it, whatever. If you ever need to use your slaved strobes in bright outdoor light, you can also fashion hoods over the slave to shade them from the sun or use white to reflect light into slaves in awkward locations. Best of all, the material is available in art supply stores wherever you travel.
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Yeah, that stuff is probably the best makeshift. last night I used an old T shirt wrapped about a peice of thin plywood, for lack of anything else in arms reach. Worked great. I like the foam board too in white and black. Seems to work nicely and is light.

I bought a stand and boom set from B&H last night too wiht a 5-1 reflector kit for solo operation. I think I'm pretty good to go, except for one thing. I need a way to REDUCE light now. Alienbees sells ND filters for the lights. I may have to go that route. Or, I can use the new boom and use a peice of traslucent material between the light and subject. I'll probably do that so I can use cheap pieces of material in differing densities. Works as a diffuser too I would guess.

Hank · « **Reply #5 on:** December 27, 2005, 08:43:17 am »

We use ND gels (Roscoe, available in rolls or sheets) for lights or ND filters (a polarizer will sub in a pinch) on lenses. Space-available, I have also resorted to pointing the bare light away from a subject and into a reflector. The greater the distance between the light and the reflector, the less light is thrown back on the subject. The latter works best if there's a black wall behind the reflector so the light is redirected only by the reflector and not the wall behind.

dwdallam · « **Reply #6 on:** December 28, 2005, 04:50:54 am »

Quote

We use ND gels (Roscoe, available in rolls or sheets) for lights or ND filters (a polarizer will sub in a pinch) on lenses. Space-available, I have also resorted to pointing the bare light away from a subject and into a reflector. The greater the distance between the light and the reflector, the less light is thrown back on the subject. The latter works best if there's a black wall behind the reflector so the light is redirected only by the reflector and not the wall behind.
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Where can I look up ND filters in rolls?

sperera · « **Reply #7 on:** February 20, 2009, 08:59:22 am »

I'm about to buy some location lighting (battery power pack, heads etc) and I've been considering them all....Elinchrom Ranger RX, Profoto, Broncolor, etc and finally I'm looking at Alien Bees as they seem to be good value for money.....in the end it was the Ranger RX system that I felt was better value than Profoto or Broncolor but now its between AlienBees and Elinchrom....

Personally, Id just get the AlienBees cos of the name and their vibe....having coloured flash heads is another attractive proposition too!!!!! but at the end of the day one must go for what's going to provide the best value.....

so.....are you guys actually buying a less powerful flash head cos you cant dial the flash output low enough?

?? sorry....i dont follow what you're saying exactly

Chris_Brown · « **Reply #8 on:** February 20, 2009, 09:34:37 am »

Quote from: sperera

I'm about to buy some location lighting (battery power pack, heads etc) and I've been considering them all....Elinchrom Ranger RX, Profoto, Broncolor, etc.

Don't forget to try the Speedotron Explorer. I use a couple of them and find them very reliable.

Dustbak · « **Reply #9 on:** February 20, 2009, 11:04:44 am »

Rolls of ND gel can be bought from Adorama or BH for instance. Have a search on Lee gel filters or Rosco. Prices do vary, it pays to look around.

You can also use a ND filter (or in some cases a polarizer) on your lens of course though on your lens will dim your viewfinder so not recommended when you need to bring light down more than a couple of stops.

For smaller amounts of light I use the pocket sized Nikon SB80DX lights. Remarkably small and if you keep the power below 1/4th pretty fast in recycling as well (or you need to get an external power pack). They go for about 150bucks each.

I also have the Ranger but to be honest I might have been better off with their newest addition, the Quadra which is much smaller and can use the same head, has 400ws and did I mention is much smaller ?

mcfoto · « **Reply #10 on:** February 20, 2009, 01:53:55 pm »

Quote from: sperera

I'm about to buy some location lighting (battery power pack, heads etc) and I've been considering them all....Elinchrom Ranger RX, Profoto, Broncolor, etc and finally I'm looking at Alien Bees as they seem to be good value for money.....in the end it was the Ranger RX system that I felt was better value than Profoto or Broncolor but now its between AlienBees and Elinchrom....

Personally, Id just get the AlienBees cos of the name and their vibe....having coloured flash heads is another attractive proposition too!!!!! but at the end of the day one must go for what's going to provide the best value.....

so.....are you guys actually buying a less powerful flash head cos you cant dial the flash output low enough??? sorry....i dont follow what you're saying exactly

Hi
I think they are saying you don't that much power anymore with the new DSLRs. I have both Profoto & 2 AB 800 units that I had converted to 220 volt. I still prefer the light quality from Profoto but I love the performance of the AB. I did a test with the AB 800 vrs the 600 ws Profoto compact. Both at full power & the AB 800 was more like a 550 ws unit than the 320 ws it is sold as. The AB 800 is excellent value & I have blown one flash tube which I replaced myself for the cost of $30.00 USD. I really wish they would make 220 volt units as mine have worked here in Australia for 4 years. The nice thing about the AB 800 is that it recycles in 1.0 sec @ max power.
Denis

fnagy · « **Reply #11 on:** February 20, 2009, 09:01:02 pm »

I agree with Chris, the Speedo Explorer neat system, uses existing 202 heads (100 w modeling bulb), no need for separate charger, uses existing power cord off other packs, symetrical (full 1500 w if needed) as well as asymetrical. Speedo ruggedness & reliability. No bells or whistles, some might consider it crude, but it gets the job done.

Kirk Gittings · « **Reply #12 on:** February 20, 2009, 09:34:47 pm »

"stop down to 2.8 sometimes"

I'm confused. As long as I have been doing photography, stopping down always meant to go to a smaller aperture. Like "I stopped down from f11 to f22", closing down the aperture. Did you mean open up to 2.8?

Chris_Brown · « **Reply #13 on:** February 21, 2009, 12:05:44 am »

Quote from: fnagy

... the Speedo Explorer neat system, uses existing 202 heads (100 w modeling bulb)...

I use the 103 heads. No fan to suck the juice!

Chris Gahran · « **Reply #14 on:** February 21, 2009, 04:45:55 am »

Quote from: Chris_Brown

I use the 103 heads. No fan to suck the juice!

The Speedo Explorer is designed not to power the fan in your flash-head (to conserve the battery) so you can use your regular studio heads with the power pack which is a great money saving feature. It is recommended that if you want to use the modeling light, change from the normal 250w lamp to a 150w lamp.

You can also plug into the wall and shoot while it's charging. I believe all other battery power packs require you to purchase an expensive adapter to allow you to use A/C as the power source.

Chris

Author Topic: Studio Light (Read 7626 times)