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Author Topic: New User of Hasselblad Flextight X1 - A Humble Plea For Your Wisdom  (Read 7045 times)

drennon

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I've been scanning on a Hasselblad Flextight X1 now for a while (upgraded from Nikon CS 9000), between 500-600 scans total so far. I've made many mistakes, as is often the case with a new tool, but have found the scanner to live up to its reputation as exceptional. However, I would love to hear any tips/tricks/recommendations that may be out there for getting the most out of this scanner:

For starters:

1. What is an appropriate setting for the Flextouch dust removal software? Initially I set the scanner to full-power dust removal, but to de-sharpened the images severely and left artifacts in the scan. One gentleman told me he would not turn dust removal on at all and just do dust removal, but my goodness...the dust. THE DUST!

2. What settings do you recommend adjusting in the scanner as opposed to Photoshop? In other words, is it best to adjust color/saturation settings in the Flextouch scanning software, or is it best to put that off to Photoshop? If you use the scanning software for such adjustments, what combination of adjustments do you find most beneficial?

I read recently (can't remember where now) that scanning film is a bit of an art, and it is one I assume requires a fair amount of trial and error. Bearing that in mind, any wisdom fellow Flextight users would have to share from experience that helped you get the most out the scanner would be greatly appreciated. I'll be using this scanner for fine art with the hope of creating bright, some what-desaturated, soft-color images from Portra 160 & 400. AKA, something like this:

http://www.danielpshea.com/coalwork

I'm aware that there will ALWAYS be work to do in post, but I sense I am not harnessing the full power of this machine.

Best,

David
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BernardLanguillier

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Is it not possible to perform 2 scans, one with dust reduction activated, the other one without.

You could then overlay the images in PS, align them and find a way to apply an automated masking between the 2 to retain locally the dusted off image only where it matters?

Assuming that dusts are always darker, you may be able to do this simply by selecting a Light transparency mode?

I have not tried it, but it may work.

Cheers,
Bernard

Rob Reiter

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I've been using FlexTight scanners for about fifteen years and I've never found the dust removal feature useful. I leave that to Photoshop, either spotting manually or with the Dust/Scratches filter.

While the color controls in the scanner software are not as flexible as Photoshop, you can still use them to good effect for anything with a color cast. I use Curves, Saturation and the neutral eyedropper all the time. But I almost always will refine the picture later in Photoshop.
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Schewe

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I read recently (can't remember where now) that scanning film is a bit of an art, and it is one I assume requires a fair amount of trial and error. Bearing that in mind, any wisdom fellow Flextight users would have to share from experience that helped you get the most out the scanner would be greatly appreciated. I'll be using this scanner for fine art with the hope of creating bright, some what-desaturated, soft-color images from Portra 160 & 400.

So, the answer to your question is, yes, it's as much of an art as a science...and it takes skill and experience. But there are some generally excepted approaches. First off, cleanliness is next to glodliness. When you scan film, you need to clean it really well and pay close attention–not unlike the old days when you cleaned a neg before putting into the neg carrier of the enlarger. The cleaner the neg, the less spotting (cloning) you'll be doing...

There are some odd things about the Hasselblad Flextight X1 (formerly the Imacon Flextight). As far as I know, the darn software will STILL add sharpening unless you turn sharpening on but move it down to -120 amount...yeah, I know, but that's the way it used to be. There are better ways and places for sharpening and noise reduction than in the Flextight software...

Another important thing to consider is at best, all you can do in the Flextight software is a global adjustment...and that should drive the way to want to set the scan settings...in general, don't click either blacks or whites in the scan. It's far better to do so later in Photoshop where you have both global and local adjustments.

Yes, fix color casts in the scan...but be careful of trying to do too much when dealing with crossed-curves (color cast that are different in hoghlights and shadows) cause the scanner software is primitive compared to Photoshop.

Do yourself a favor and create a custom scanner profile for your scanner–don't just scan into a working space. I would suggest using a working space of ProPhoto RGB and scan into 16 bit tiffs. Forget about the IIIF format.

In general, I tend to scan soft (no clipped blacks and whites) with a decent neutral clor balance (not obvious color casts). I turn sharpening and noise reduction off in the scanner software. I would suggest PhotoKit Sharpener for sharpening but only after noise reduction using Noiseware. (that's what I do...substitute your own favs here).

And just know that a good scan is gonna take a lot of time to clean up and perfect...so I suggest you only spend the time on really good images!!!
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mcbroomf

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Re: New User of Hasselblad Flextight X1 - A Humble Plea For Your Wisdom
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2014, 12:31:53 pm »

I echo a lot of what Jeff says, especially about cleaning your negs/chromes.  I used a combination of blower and antistatic brush and it was pretty effective.
It's been a long time since I had an Imacon but as far as I remember you can save the .3F RAW file as well as a TIFF.  If you do that then it really is the RAW scanned data and you can go back and reprocess it later on (assuming you have the plugin or just within the Imacon application) and change sharpening, NR, colour balance, black/whitepoints etc.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
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Kirk Gittings

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Re: New User of Hasselblad Flextight X1 - A Humble Plea For Your Wisdom
« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2014, 02:51:41 pm »

If you simply rename the saved .3fff file as .tiff it opens right up as a tiff. So is it really a raw file? I don't know-most of my friends in the "bidness" who scan commercially think not.
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Kirk Gittings

Fine_Art

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Re: New User of Hasselblad Flextight X1 - A Humble Plea For Your Wisdom
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2014, 11:11:36 am »

Get a HEPA filter air clear running in the room an hour before you start.
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Re: New User of Hasselblad Flextight X1 - A Humble Plea For Your Wisdom
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2014, 02:01:32 pm »

I always prefer to open and edit the fff files in PS,replacing .fff with .tif   and do all the job there . I never use the Flextouch software.
The raw file remains "Raw" meaning that all information remains almost intact as I understand it and feel it ,8 years now that I use
Flextight 949.I have made comparative tests and almost always I find editing only in PS, better.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2014, 02:03:27 pm by Idololab »
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Hening Bettermann

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Re: New User of Hasselblad Flextight X1 - A Humble Plea For Your Wisdom
« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2014, 05:55:17 pm »

[...] So is it really a raw file? I don't know-most of my friends in the "bidness" who scan commercially think not.

If I open them in PhotoLine, the layer panel displays 3 layers: the background and 2 extra layers, each containing a little thumbnail of the image in the top left corner. One of these thumbnails seems to be identical to the main image, the other one different in brightness and/or color balance.

Hening Bettermann

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Re: New User of Hasselblad Flextight X1 - A Humble Plea For Your Wisdom
« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2014, 03:13:03 pm »

I have no Imacon myself. My roll film keepers are scanned on an Imacon X5 into 3f. Here are 2 screenshots of an image, opened in Flexcolor 4.8.4, with USM set to 0 and -120 respectively. Indeed, the image with -120 is even unsharper than the 0. But is it unsharpened, or is it in fact additionally blurred? How would you decide that?

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