Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: prepping large canvas to hang  (Read 3029 times)

mstevensphoto

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 448
    • Denver Commercial Photographer
prepping large canvas to hang
« on: April 09, 2012, 12:42:29 pm »

Hi all,
   I've finally got my workflow down for my larger works. After trying gator board I found that it's really just a lot easier and cheaper to use masonite on a pine frame. I've got some 38x72" pieces that I'm supposed to install in an office and am curious for those of you hanging large/heavy works:

do you do anything different when hanging for a corporate client than in a home?
what do you like to use/how do you like to hang them?
do you supply any special care instructions for a large piece different than your small pieces?


thanks
Mark
Logged

bill t.

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3011
    • http://www.unit16.net
Re: prepping large canvas to hang
« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2012, 01:43:35 pm »

Will estimate those pieces are about 20 to 40 lbs.

Just two d-rings, one on each side.  Easily handle 40 lbs.  I usually place them 6 inches above horizontal center which tends to keep the piece snugged up to the wall.

Of course you can always use cleats as discussed elsewhere.  But one advantage of the two-point d-rings is that the wall doesn't have to be perfectly flat.  Another advantage is simplicity.  It's how most museums hang their medium large pieces.

I like d-rings with flat oval tops, like these.  It allows for left-right expansion and contraction of the piece, although there won't be much with Masonite.  Also makes nail positioning a little less critical.  Pointy-topped d-rings need closer measuring tolerances, and generally make life too hard.

Have many pieces mounted to Masonite from the 70's, still in good shape.  Would use it in preference to Gator if:

1. it didn't weigh so much.

2. it could be cut well without a table saw and without making sawdust.

3. my back was in better shape.

edit.  Oh yeah, safety.  Put the d-rings about 1 inch in from the sides, and twist a safety wire loop between the nail/screw and the d-ring.  Easy to do if somebody else is taking the weight off that side of the piece and the ring itself is temporarily flopped 90 degrees to the wall.  Ballistic kid proof if done properly.
« Last Edit: April 10, 2012, 01:53:38 pm by bill t. »
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up