Model Agencies-The Politics of Fashion Photography Part 24

[BenjaminKanarek]

A Few Interesting Tips

There are some interesting adages one might wish to use in describing relationships with model agencies.  I have dealt with all of them and the one thing I can say is this;  It is not so much the model agency, but the bookers who work for them that will leave you a lasting impression about them.

Now that may seem obvious, but it really isn't at all, as bookers move from agency to agency more often than passengers on a subway line.  Yeah, I am exaggerating, but it is very often.  Thus, when you think you have built up a solid relationship with a booker at an agency and find out that she left for another, the reality of this move is worse than you might imagine.  Not only have they left the agency, but quite often, come of the talent from that agency leaves with them.  Not add insult to injury, being that the politic in model agencies are what they are, there is a good chance that trying to establish a solid working relationship with another booker may be problematic, as the may be jealous that you didn't give them your time and decided to book via someone else. 

The above example is not an exaggeration, as I have experienced this time and time again.

Something else you must be made aware of is  a kind of bait and switch technique, that is used often to get you to book a model with less notoriety than that with whom you really want to work with.  How does that work you ask?  Well, let's say you are casting for "So & So" magazine.  You ask for suggestions for girls available for the magazine.  They send you 8 or 9 models and in that choice there are a couple of Top Models.  You get all excited and say, yes, please put an option on so and so for "So & So" magazine. They so, we will try, but in case they are not available, why don't you also consider so and so as well.  Most photographers won't want to be impolite and generally say, perhaps why not.

Well you are now only a few days away from the shoot.  You have a good 2nd option on those two Top Models.  Well lo and behold, guess what happens? A couple of days before the shoot, you find out that they are NOT available and you are basically forced to take their second rung of models.  You ask, "Why not confirm them or put them on 1st option?"  Well, one of the techniques is to always give a 2nd option, in case the model gets called for an Ad Campaign, which pays a lot more than "So & So" magazine.  Of course, if you can confirm the girl, that is the best bet, but still will not guarantee the booking.  They will always find a way out if necessary.

My advice, is to put as many options as possible on the girls you like and hope that at  the end of the day, one of them turns out to be a go for your "So & So" Magazine Editorial. Or better yet, if you can afford a casting director, go for it.  They have tons more leverage than you do. 

More to come about model agencies later.

http://www.benjaminkanarekblog.com/ike
 

[DennisWilliams]

I have not experienced bait and switch. Bookers often will not present certain models for certain jobs if the pay or shooter or job itself is not adequate.  I have worked with Ford, Click, Nous, Major, Wilhelmina, LAModels, and Next among the  larger agencies in the U.S.  and they've always been quite forthcoming with who does what jobs and who does not.  I've met a couple younger photographers  who mentioned they were turned down outright when requesting a top girl  and offered others to choose from.  I do not think of this as b&s.  I refuse to shoot people  so it is logical that models (or their reps)  decline to work with a given photographer- say without a track record-  or on a certain project- especially when it is  150$ editorial, spec work, or for a low end client.

As for options, it is simple enough not to accept 2nd options and if that is all you are offered then a reality check is probably in order. Bookers are fairly conscientious  when putting together packages that fit the job.  Far better that way than to stop by the agency and start pulling cards off the wall yourself. If you never see the people you can't have you won't miss them.  At the point you are shooting an editorial for Vanity Fair  or a Ralph Lauren campaign  you'll have most everyone to choose from. Models regularly start their  careers with a national campaign shot by a major photographer.  New shooter with major model on national campaign - not so often.  Dues to pay.

I do see bookers leaving one agency- often to help form a new one- every few years or so but the equivalent  happens in all businesses and should not be seen as a negative. The men's director at Major left recently to form Soul. About the 6th or 7th time a men's director  I worked with has switched in two decades. It can be a a pain  for a bit till the dust settles so although bookers are the lifeline it never hurts to build a relationship with the owners as well. Change brings opportunities.