ICC profiles made in Toronto?

[Aristoc]

Does anyone know where I can have ICC profiles made in Toronto ?
It's for my printer (R2880) and the new Moab lasal Exhibition Luster 300gsm paper.
Thanks

[howardm]

I didn't realize that that paper was actually shipping yet.

google 'eric chan profiles' or see your other post on dpreview

[Aristoc]

wow,  I thought I was fast.

Yes I think I've read a lot about him.

Thank you

 

[Mark D Segal]

You asked where profiles can be made in Toronto. Do they need to be made in Toronto, or are you in Toronto and need profiles made anywhere reliable? If the latter, yes, Eric Chan is absolutely recommendable. So is Andrew Rodney. But both of them are in the USA. No problem. For any service, you will need to print and mail the targets to their specifications. They read the targets and send you the profile as an email attachment, so wherever this is done really doesn't matter as long as you can mail the targets to them.

[Aristoc]

I go the message thanks.Andrew charges $100, Eric $20.

[Luca Ragogna]

I'm pretty sure Pikto will build you a profile.

[Aristoc]

Yes they do and Chand doesn't answer emails. But, as i just found out, Moab is going to make a profile for the R2880 and their new 300gsm luster paper so I don't need to pay to buy a profile anymore. I should get the paper on a couple of days.

Thank you

 

[howardm]

where did you get that paper from?  I thought it wasn't going to be released for another month

[Mark D Segal]

Yes they do and Chand doesn't answer emails. But, as i just found out, Moab is going to make a profile for the R2880 and their new 300gsm luster paper so I don't need to pay to buy a profile anymore. I should get the paper on a couple of days.

Thank you

 

Maybe you don't NEED to pay for a profile, but you may get better results using a profile custom made for YOUR printer and that paper. This is more important with the non-professional printer models, such as yours, where consistency of rendition between units MAY not necessarily be to the same standard as for the professional models. As well, paper manufacturers are not always best at profiling their own papers. Epson itself improved over the years. I don't know how good Moab is, but I had sub-optimal results using an Ilford profile, which I only corrected by making my own profile for their paper, and I was using an Epson Stylus Pro 4800 at the time. Of course no harm trying Moab's canned profile first to see what it does for you, but bear in mind that you may end-up wanting a custom profile. That way you have better assurance that the performance characteristics of YOUR printer and that paper are correctly profiled, provided the profile is well-made, starting with correct procedure printing the targets.

[Aristoc]

where did you get that paper from?  I thought it wasn't going to be released for another month

Purchased from our friendly neighbouts at B&H. Should arrive in a day or two.  

[Aristoc]

Maybe you don't NEED to pay for a profile, but you may get better results using a profile custom made for YOUR printer and that paper. This is more important with the non-professional printer models, such as yours, where consistency of rendition between units MAY not necessarily be to the same standard as for the professional models. As well, paper manufacturers are not always best at profiling their own papers. Epson itself improved over the years. I don't know how good Moab is, but I had sub-optimal results using an Ilford profile, which I only corrected by making my own profile for their paper, and I was using an Epson Stylus Pro 4800 at the time. Of course no harm trying Moab's canned profile first to see what it does for you, but bear in mind that you may end-up wanting a custom profile. That way you have better assurance that the performance characteristics of YOUR printer and that paper are correctly profiled, provided the profile is well-made, starting with correct procedure printing the targets.

Mark, I am not sure if I know how to analyze a print well enough to know that I would need a custom profile. How would I know it 's not my printer? or my calibration ? or ?

[Alan Goldhammer]

I don't know how good Moab is, but I had sub-optimal results using an Ilford profile, which I only corrected by making my own profile for their paper, and I was using an Epson Stylus Pro 4800 at the time. Of course no harm trying Moab's canned profile first to see what it does for you, but bear in mind that you may end-up wanting a custom profile.

I think Andy Biggs does the profile work for Moab (at least for the pro printers) as I've seen some posts on LuLa.

[Alan Goldhammer]

Mark, I am not sure if I know how to analyze a print well enough to know that I would need a custom profile. How would I know it 's not my printer? or my calibration ? or ?

For a modest amount of money you can buy a ColorMunki by X-Rite and profile both your monitor and printer.  I've had one for 18 months and it works great.  I bought it when I still had the Epson 2880 and reprofiled for all my papers.

[Mark D Segal]

Mark, I am not sure if I know how to analyze a print well enough to know that I would need a custom profile. How would I know it 's not my printer? or my calibration ? or ?

Go to my most recent article on the Epson 4900 (the Review Addendum http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/printers/epson_4900_printer_review___addendum_february_2011.shtml ), click on the link to Outback Photo under Figure One and download that target which is the same as my Figure 1. Save it to your hard drive.

Calibrate and profile your monitor. If you are working in a dim environment and likekly to view the prints under D50 illumination, a reasonable starting point for your calibration points would be White Point of 5000, luminance of 110 cd/m2 and gamma of 2.2 or L*, depending on the options in your calibration package. These are suggested start values, which may need to be adjusted to your environment.

Now, with all that set-up, load your Moab profile into the Photoshop or Lightroom Print dialogue, open the printer test image you downloaded, make no adjustments to it, make sure there is no colour management active in the printer driver, check that the correct Epson reference paper corresponding with the instructions for using the Moab profile is selected in the printer driver and print it on an 8.5 by 11 inch sheet using Relative Colorimetric with Black Point Compensation, or Perceptual depending again on the advice coming with the profile. Then turn on Soft-proofing, making sure the soft proof set-up corresponds with the profile and other printing conditions you are using. Compare the print (well lit) with the softproof and see how good the matching is to the display. You will be able to see immediately if there are major problems with luminosity (brightness, contrast) or colours and where these problems are most pronounced. Depending on the nature of the disconnects, it is then possible to do more diagnostics to figure out whether the problem is the display or the profile, or a mixture of both, but get to first base on the initial set of results, and see what happens. If it's all good, we needn't get into diagnostics.

[Aristoc]

For a modest amount of money you can buy a ColorMunki by X-Rite and profile both your monitor and printer.  I've had one for 18 months and it works great.  I bought it when I still had the Epson 2880 and reprofiled for all my papers.

I wish I knew colormunki does both the monitor and printer with the same device before i bought spyder 3 pro.  to do a print profile, i need to buy more equipment. colourmunki is currently around $600

[Aristoc]

I'll give this a try ...

Go to my most recent article on the Epson 4900 (the Review Addendum http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/printers/epson_4900_printer_review___addendum_february_2011.shtml ), click on the link to Outback Photo under Figure One and download that target which is the same as my Figure 1. Save it to your hard drive.

Calibrate and profile your monitor. If you are working in a dim environment and likekly to view the prints under D50 illumination, a reasonable starting point for your calibration points would be White Point of 5000, luminance of 110 cd/m2 and gamma of 2.2 or L*, depending on the options in your calibration package. These are suggested start values, which may need to be adjusted to your environment.

Now, with all that set-up, load your Moab profile into the Photoshop or Lightroom Print dialogue, open the printer test image you downloaded, make no adjustments to it, make sure there is no colour management active in the printer driver, check that the correct Epson reference paper corresponding with the instructions for using the Moab profile is selected in the printer driver and print it on an 8.5 by 11 inch sheet using Relative Colorimetric with Black Point Compensation, or Perceptual depending again on the advice coming with the profile. Then turn on Soft-proofing, making sure the soft proof set-up corresponds with the profile and other printing conditions you are using. Compare the print (well lit) with the softproof and see how good the matching is to the display. You will be able to see immediately if there are major problems with luminosity (brightness, contrast) or colours and where these problems are most pronounced. Depending on the nature of the disconnects, it is then possible to do more diagnostics to figure out whether the problem is the display or the profile, or a mixture of both, but get to first base on the initial set of results, and see what happens. If it's all good, we needn't get into diagnostics.

[Mike Guilbault]

you can also check out http://www.colourmanagement.ca/home.shtml.  Angus Pady of Digital Solutions is a Colour Management Guru!  Great service too.  No affiliation - bought my Eye1Display2 from him and the service was exceptional:

Phone: 416-568-0663
Phone:   416-568-0663
Address:   16 The Links Rd,
Suite 409
Toronto,
Ontario, M2P 1T5
e-mail:   [email protected]

[Aristoc]

Ill book mark that and see if I need to go that route. Thank you.