Leaf 65 and X-Rite Passport?

[evgeny]

I use a Gray Card which come with Leaf 65 to set white balance.
I just bought X-Rite Passport to also set more accurate colors. I think my workflow should be as follows:

1. Set Gray balance under specific light using Leaf Gray Card.
2. Shoot X-Rite Passport under same light.
3. Shoot all images.
4. Create Profile using X-Rite Color Checker Passport software.
5. Apply the Profile to all images in Photoshop.

Q: Is that correct procedure? Should I set Gray Balance before I shoot X-Rite Passport? If not, why X-Rite comes with a Gray Card?

I was warned in the past to not use WhiBal Gray card, which I also own, due to its different Gray. The X-Rite Passport comes with its own Gray Card.
Q: Can I use that X-Rite's Passport Gray Card, or should stay with the Leaf's Gray Card for proper Gray balance?

[gss]

I believe you are correct in setting gray balance before using the Passport.

I do not believe the different grays matter for setting color balance as long as you stay away from really light or really dark, just that they are truly neutral colors and don't suffer from too much metamerism.

As long as you are staying completely within the Adobe Camera Raw workflow, your X-Rite Color Checker Passport should work fine.  Keep in mind that it produces a DCP file rather than an ICC file, so its use outside of ACR is limited.

I'd be interested in hearing from some others on here if there is an inexpensive way to profile a camera/shoot and get ICC files.

[evgeny]

Hi, thank for the details!

[ced]

evegeny
Have you tried selecting one or more of the canned profiles?
Why do you think you can make them any better than those who already spent years in getting to the result that is supplied?
I would use the grey card supplied by Leaf or a plastic A4 version from "Basicolor" in Germany <http://www.basiccolor.de/Orderforms/orderTargets/PreisTargets.htm>
This one can be cut in 4 pieces and shoved in various bags or cases and can be washed when soiled.
All the other grey cards will equally do the job but get soiled including the Leaf one when left lying about and handled by models and assistants.
Neutralize and then select one of the canned profiles as a basis (get to know it's weak points and fine tune it in your favorite processing program.
You will save yourself tons of time and headaches...

[evgeny]

Hi, ced, thank you for reply.

Each digital back has a small variation of colors in final capture.
The Color Passport helps to correct the difference. The Passport doesn't replace the need for Gray Card, nor a substitution for profiles built-in into Leaf's Software. Please tell me more, if I not understand the point.

[ced]

e. In your 1st. post you mention making a new profile...
{4. Create Profile using X-Rite Color Checker Passport software.
5. Apply the Profile to all images in Photoshop.}

Maybe it should be modify profile (like colour temperature, gradation and colour correction) and use modification setting to apply to all images?

[digitaldog]

If GB is way off, the Passport software will tell you. In theory you could use your gray card or the gray on the little Macbeth.

[Frank Doorhof]

I've been using the passport for some time now.
Workflow for me is to shoot the passport with a certain lightsource and background and use that in Photoshop for the final edit.
I first load the profile and than do the whitebalance on one of the squares at the bottom.

It's no way 100% accurate what the passport does, but it's a huge improvement for my Canon files and more than worth it for the Leaf back.
Although I also like the canned profiles of course.

[evgeny]

Hi Frank, thank for sharing experience.
I just created a custom DCP profile and applied to some images. Got more accurate colors (of clothing). I agree it's not 100% accurate, but noticeably better, especially in red and blue.
What's your method selecting a gray square at the bottom, do you look for a square with RGB value closer to 128?

[Frank Doorhof]

The 128 value is only of interest for calibrating your lightmeter, I use a larger target for that.
For whitebalance you can use any of the gray squares at the bottom.
If you want more warmth or a bit more green (for landscapes) use the portrait + or landscape + squares.

[evgeny]

The 128 value is only of interest for calibrating your lightmeter, I use a larger target for that.
For whitebalance you can use any of the gray squares at the bottom.
If you want more warmth or a bit more green (for landscapes) use the portrait + or landscape + squares.

I see, thanks.