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Author Topic: Sensor dust on the long term road  (Read 6352 times)

pco98

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« on: June 04, 2008, 11:46:22 am »

Help, I'm on the road in India for 5 months (2 1/2 to go) with a Canon 5D. It has no sensor cleaning facility. I am not very well armed as flammable ie sensor cleaning fluid are not allowed on flights - I have a blower, a cloth and cotton wool bud stick things - okay for use on lens but not really for the sensor! There may be authorised Canon dealer in Delhi but I'm up in the North and won't be there for at least a month. I have some specks which are showing up in the sky.

Is tedious cloning my only option?

Ross

Kirk Gittings

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2008, 12:08:16 pm »

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Help, I'm on the road in India for 5 months (2 1/2 to go) with a Canon 5D. It has no sensor cleaning facility. I am not very well armed as flammable ie sensor cleaning fluid are not allowed on flights - I have a blower, a cloth and cotton wool bud stick things - okay for use on lens but not really for the sensor! There may be authorised Canon dealer in Delhi but I'm up in the North and won't be there for at least a month. I have some specks which are showing up in the sky.

Is tedious cloning my only option?

Ross
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=199705\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I live in the dry dusty SW. I only work on location and mostly outdoors and change lens often. On my 5D DustAid does the trick. I wear a cheap dust mask over my mouth when I am doing it and only need to clean about once every two weeks.
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dwdallam

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2008, 07:16:53 am »

I've always thought my 5D was a dust magnate, but I think it's the flocking they used in the 5D. Have you tried going into sensor cleaning mode and then after the shutter open, REALLY blowing the hell out of the sensor with your blower? I started doing that and only needed to wet clean the sensor very infrequently.
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Kirk Gittings

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #3 on: June 05, 2008, 11:13:20 am »

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I've always thought my 5D was a dust magnate, but I think it's the flocking they used in the 5D. Have you tried going into sensor cleaning mode and then after the shutter open, REALLY blowing the hell out of the sensor with your blower? I started doing that and only needed to wet clean the sensor very infrequently.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=199867\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I don't find the 5D any worse than others I have owned for dust. I think that is a classic example of web myth. I never need to wet clean. Dust Aid is not wet cleaning. IME in my dusty environment, the blower just moved the dust around. I just traded old dust for new dust.
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tandlh

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2008, 12:17:52 pm »

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I don't find the 5D any worse than others I have owned for dust. I think that is a classic example of web myth. I never need to wet clean. Dust Aid is not wet cleaning. IME in my dusty environment, the blower just moved the dust around. I just traded old dust for new dust.
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Kirk,
   I looked up Dust Aid on Amazon.com and they have a dry and wet version.  Here's the description of the dry one, is this what you're using:  "Product Description DUST-AID is an adhesive based digital single lens reflex camera sensor cleaner. It was developed to be an easy to use, safe option that will help even the novice, non-technical shooter clean dust off of their sensor. DUST-AID is comprised into three main elements, the foam tape, the pad and the wand. The foam tape has been tested, designed, and manufactured in a Clean Room to protect the sensor filter during dust removal. The DUST-AID pad is a grouping of 12 foam tapes. They come in a resealable plastic bag with a tabbed release paper for easy wand application."  From Amazon.com

Ross,
    Since you're already on the road here is a technique I read on Bob Atkins web site that you might be able to use over there.  It worked fairly well on my 5D.  Purchase a small (I got a 1/2 inch width) synthetic artists paint brush that has a non metallic handle.  Wash it throughly to remove any residual oils.  When dry you can test for oils for brushing it across a good lens or filter and checking for residue.  Then before you use it to gently brush across the AA filter over the sensor, blow the bristles a few times with your blower.  Supposedly that will 'charge' the bristles.  I assume by adding a minute amount of static to it.  If you don't have a blower he also suggested that you could rub the handle on your clothing a bit to build up a small charge.  Then gently swip it across the sensor/AA filter.  
    I recently got frustrated with the dust on my 5D.  I just couldn't blow them off and I know enough not to use the Eclipse on it, so I did a search and found this.  I figured that a soft touch couldn't hurt too much and if i smeared a piece of pollen around I'd just ship it in for cleaning any way.  I did a side by side comparison  in lightroom at 100% of before and after sky shots.  I'd say that I removed over 90% of the specs with no apparent smears.  Anyway, just a thought since you're already on the road.

Ted
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dwdallam

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2008, 10:45:58 pm »

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I don't find the 5D any worse than others I have owned for dust. I think that is a classic example of web myth. I never need to wet clean. Dust Aid is not wet cleaning. IME in my dusty environment, the blower just moved the dust around. I just traded old dust for new dust.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=199893\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]


That's not my experience. Even when the 5D doesn't get any lens changes, it "seems" to me that it gets dirty, which would indicate flocking coming off the inside of the box. I will admit that the longer I used it the less that seemed to happen. IN any event, I just started blowing it really good after each lens change, and that seems to do a relatively good job. But the real test for the OP is to try it himself. If it works, nothing lost.

And I think I will pick up some of the Dust Aids jsut to keep in my pack when traveling w/o my liquid. Thanks for the tip.
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Nicholas

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2008, 01:18:54 pm »

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Help, I'm on the road in India for 5 months (2 1/2 to go) with a Canon 5D. It has no sensor cleaning facility. I am not very well armed as flammable ie sensor cleaning fluid are not allowed on flights - I have a blower, a cloth and cotton wool bud stick things - okay for use on lens but not really for the sensor! There may be authorised Canon dealer in Delhi but I'm up in the North and won't be there for at least a month. I have some specks which are showing up in the sky.

Is tedious cloning my only option?

Ross
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
Hi Ross,

Do you have access to canned air? If so, I suggest giving it a try. A lot of people go around "weak-kneed" at the thought of blowing off a sensor with it, but if you're very careful, the force of the jet-spray will take care of the loose specks. Just a couple things to keep in mind: 1) let some air out first, this will let out propellant that has built up at the nozzle, 2) hold the can at a perfect 90°, 3) move the camera into position and not the can, 4) get the tip of the straw no closer than 1" to the sensor surface, and 5) use a couple of short bursts and not a long release.

If you can't find any canned air, then I agree about finding an off-the-shelf brush as opposed to doing nothing. Do wash it and let it dry thoroughly if that's possible where you are. Use the blower to charge it and it will pick up just as much loose dust as any adhesive and is probably the easiest and safest tool to use in the field. Proprietary sensor brushes, however, are sterile when you buy them and some have specially designed filaments.

And as far as Ted's comment about Eclipse, Photographic Solutions has done extensive testing of Eclipse and E2 and have found that neither will damage the ITO-coating of any sensor, including the 5D. There were a handful of 5D's that had improperly applied ITO-coatings that were easily broken down by both of these fluids as well as adhesives. The affected cameras were from the very first batch released in late 2005 and early 2006, but all subsequent runs have had absolutely no ITO issues whatsoever. Photographic Solutions now recommends E2 for all ITO-coated sensors in order to be consistent with SONY's directive. FWIW, I have used Eclipse on my D300's sensor with no adverse effects at all.

Nicholas
[a href=\"http://www.copperhillimages.com]Copper Hill Images[/url]
« Last Edit: June 09, 2008, 01:20:45 pm by Nicholas »
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tandlh

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2008, 01:39:02 pm »

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And as far as Ted's comment about Eclipse, Photographic Solutions has done extensive testing of Eclipse and E2 and have found that neither will damage the ITO-coating of any sensor, including the 5D. There were a handful of 5D's that had improperly applied ITO-coatings that were easily broken down by both of these fluids as well as adhesives. The affected cameras were from the very first batch released in late 2005 and early 2006, but all subsequent runs have had absolutely no ITO issues whatsoever. Photographic Solutions now recommends E2 for all ITO-coated sensors in order to be consistent with SONY's directive. FWIW, I have used Eclipse on my D300's sensor with no adverse effects at all.

Nicholas
Copper Hill Images
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Nicholas,
    Thanks for the clarification on Eclipse.  I purchased a cleaning kit from Cooperhill a year and a half ago for my Rebel XT, then picked up a 5D and read about the scares when using Eclipse.  Just to be clear then, Eclipse is proven safe with the filter coatings on the 5D, as long as you don't have one of the unfortunate few early models?  Has anyone published which date codes to avoid using it on?  I'm presently waiting for the Band Aid Platinum to come out in the next week or two, but if Exclipse is indeed safe I may just stay with my dry brush and occasional Eclipse wet cleanings.

Thanks,

Ted
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Nicholas

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2008, 02:11:54 pm »

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Nicholas,
    Thanks for the clarification on Eclipse.  I purchased a cleaning kit from Cooperhill a year and a half ago for my Rebel XT, then picked up a 5D and read about the scares when using Eclipse.  Just to be clear then, Eclipse is proven safe with the filter coatings on the 5D, as long as you don't have one of the unfortunate few early models?  Has anyone published which date codes to avoid using it on?  I'm presently waiting for the Band Aid Platinum to come out in the next week or two, but if Exclipse is indeed safe I may just stay with my dry brush and occasional Eclipse wet cleanings.

Thanks,

Ted
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Ted,
Because there were so few cameras affected, Photosol cannot make public a specific range of serial numbers. IOW, let's say the cameras came from batch 100000. If the number of failed coatings were 5, 6 or 7 (which there were), giving out the batch number would make hundreds if not thousands of people with the 100000 serial numbers start questioning the status of their sensor coating and going to Canon with hundreds of requests to exchange cameras, whether they had a problem or not. This would not serve 5D owners and Canon well because the problem was so rare and sporadic. This is not a simple "recall" issue. Heck, Canon didn't even exchange defective 1Dmk3's now, did they? And from Canon's standpoint, they only wish that the number of AF issues in the Mk3 were 5, 6 or 7.

What Photographic Solutions has done is to guarantee 100% that E2, when used as directed with SensorSwabs, will not damage an ITO-coating. If by some remote chance, your 5D is one of the defective cameras, the coating will probably be broken down on the first contact with the fluid. If this happens, contact Photosol, not Canon, and they will have it replaced with zero cost to you. What more of a guarantee can a company give regarding their product? I think this speaks very highly of the company.

The chemical properties of E2 are a little different than Eclipse, so there are a couple of tips to keep in mind:
1) use less E2 than you would Eclipse (2 drops instead of 3 on a full-frame)
2) after applying the E2 to the swab, wait 20 to 30 seconds to wipe the sensor
3) do not press down hard with the swab, E2 works much better with a gentle pressure

Nicholas
[a href=\"http://www.copperhillimages.com]Copper Hill Images[/url]
« Last Edit: June 09, 2008, 02:29:51 pm by Nicholas »
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Kirk Gittings

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« Reply #9 on: June 10, 2008, 12:20:35 am »

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That's not my experience. Even when the 5D doesn't get any lens changes, it "seems" to me that it gets dirty, which would indicate flocking coming off the inside of the box. I will admit that the longer I used it the less that seemed to happen.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=200011\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Odd I was not kidding about how little I need to clean and how bad the dust is here. The other night we were doing some late and twilight shots of a large building complex. The wind was blowing like hell and there was allot of dust. We were up against a deadline and could not postpone the shoot. We changed lenses outside like 10 times as we did not have access to the building. The next day I still had the same two small specks that I had had before. This is typical for us. The only time I get realatively bad dust (ten specks?) is when I forget to turn the camera off before changing lenses.
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« Reply #10 on: June 13, 2008, 03:28:10 pm »

I was on a shoot yesterday and it got me thinking about my lack of dust in a 5D. I never shoot without an assistant. When we change lenses, he is poised with the lens ready to go and the camera body is exposed for only a couple of seconds. This is a distinct advantage that I have over the average user and may explain why I get so little dust.
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dwdallam

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Sensor dust on the long term road
« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2008, 04:10:17 am »

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Odd I was not kidding about how little I need to clean and how bad the dust is here. The other night we were doing some late and twilight shots of a large building complex. The wind was blowing like hell and there was allot of dust. We were up against a deadline and could not postpone the shoot. We changed lenses outside like 10 times as we did not have access to the building. The next day I still had the same two small specks that I had had before. This is typical for us. The only time I get realatively bad dust (ten specks?) is when I forget to turn the camera off before changing lenses.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=200676\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Have you tried photographing a light blue sky at F16? Also, the camera automatically shuts off before you get the lens off, right?
« Last Edit: June 14, 2008, 04:11:21 am by dwdallam »
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Kirk Gittings

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« Reply #12 on: June 14, 2008, 09:09:46 am »

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Have you tried photographing a light blue sky at F16?

Your point? I know how to check my sensor for dust. I am not playing around with this. Architectural photography is how I have made my living for thirty years. Christ man, I have an international clientel for my photography. You think I don't know how much dust is on my files? No BTW, I photograph the blank computer screen. It is far more convenient when cleaning, than having to run outside to photograph the sky.

Quote
Also, the camera automatically shuts off before you get the lens off, right?

It makes a big difference. Test it.
« Last Edit: June 14, 2008, 04:01:43 pm by Kirk Gittings »
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