Shifting a tilt-shift lens

[DocD]

Hi, I am new to the Nikon 24mm tilt shift PC-E lens.

How do you figure out how much shift to use?
The article on L-L included tables for calculating tilt. But what about shift calculations?

For example: I need to shift up the front lens to include a whole building when standing on the street looking up. I don't want to tilt the whole camera because that would cause "key stoning"

Do you just look at the view finder and adjust shift until it looks right?

Thanks

[AJSJones]

Pretty much!  A bubble level will help keep the camera back vertical if that's the goal (to keep vertical lines parallel); then just shit up/down or left/right until you get the composition you need.

[Kirk Gittings]

Pretty much!  A bubble level will help keep the camera back vertical if that's the goal (to keep vertical lines parallel); then just shit up/down or left/right until you get the composition you need.
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I agree. With the Canons. I put the bubble level against viewing screen as the hot shoe is not really level and I (at least with the Canon 24-not the 45 or 90) don't ever shift all the way as there is considerable fall off evident at the extreme shifts.

I also use a grid screen as Diane mentions below, but the level against the screen is much faster. That may or may not be important to you, but a s a professional, I am oftentimes doing 40+ setups a day.

[picnic]

Hi, I am new to the Nikon 24mm tilt shift PC-E lens.

How do you figure out how much shift to use?
The article on L-L included tables for calculating tilt. But what about shift calculations?

For example: I need to shift up the front lens to include a whole building when standing on the street looking up. I don't want to tilt the whole camera because that would cause "key stoning"

Do you just look at the view finder and adjust shift until it looks right?

Thanks
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I don't use a level but have a grid screen that is helpful.  I don't know if one is available for the Nikons, but I find it very useful.

Diane