Gx680 and hasselblad h39mp back weird color over 1/8

[adam tracksler]

I’m working on getting my gx680 sorted with my hasselblad H3d 39 back.

I’m using a kapture group adapter.

When I’m shooting with shutter speeds over 1/8 the color goes weird, purplish and the higher the speeds the weirder the colors go.

I have no issues with the hasselblad on the body and speeds below 1/8 look fine.

Any suggestions for fixing this?

[BobShaw]

Just a possible suggestion, does the Kapture cable do some sort of delay like used to be used to wake up Phase backs? It is not necessary with Hasselblad backs and may cause some issue.

[EinstStein]

Check your digital back contacts, make sure every point is clean.

[Enda Cavanagh]

Hi Adam
Yes this is a timing issue that you get with the kodak chips i.e hasselblad 39meg,50 meg P45. If using a shutter speed of 15th/30th second or faster you need a capture group wake up cable which can be expensive and not 100% every press, or a method I used to use when I had the H3D 39 was to connect a Hasselblad electronic cable release to the back next to the flash sync connection. I set the back to flash sync with say a 2 second delay. I connected the flash sync from copal shutter in normal way. If you press the electronic release first you see the light on the back go from green to orange then you press the copal shutter release within 2 seconds. The resulting image will then be fine. It is a workaround and is only required on shutter speeds of 1/15th. shutter speeds 15th or slower do not seem to have the problem so flash sync from copal is fine.

[epines]

I had the exact same issue with my H3DII-39 before I knew more about using it on a tech camera. You need to wake up the back before you take the shot, even though Hasselblad says it's not neccessary. As Enda says, you need a Kapture Group wake-up cable. Even if it's just a fraction of a second before the shutter fires, the back needs to be sent a signal first.

Another, slower way of shooting is: Buy a cheap cable release on Amazon that you'll connect directly to the back (search for a Neewer eza-c1). In the back's menu, set an exposure time longer than your shutter speed. When you want to shoot, trigger the back first, then take your shot while the back is exposing. The shot must start and end inside the duration of the back's exposure. The back needs to see dark at the start and the end of capture.

[BobShaw]

The H3DII had a flash sync input cable and a flash sync output cable. You also need to turn off True Exposure.
You should not need a wake up cable. Possibly there is a problem with the flash signal from the lens.
Good luck.
The best thing I did was sell all of my H gear and all of my large format gear and for less money buy an X1D.

[EricWHiss]

What others suggested all possible.  I do recall getting some purple with a Hasselblad digital back on my Rolleiflex 6008AF.   In my case, I was using the mirror up button and then capturing after - so the back was not getting a pre sync signal.  I have no idea if this is the case for you with the Fuji or not but possible?   Also there is a setting in the back that tells it the time to wait - I think it will look like a shutter speed ie 1/8th and sometimes if your actual shutter speed used is longer than what is set in the DB you can see the purple as well.

ps. found my write up on that from some years back with info from Paul Claesson at HB....  https://rolleiflex.us/blogs/news-tech-tips-updates/14545525-purple-files-issue-with-hasselblad-imacon-digital-backs-on-the-6000-series-explained

[adam tracksler]

Hi guys, thanks for the info.

I've finally had a chance to sit down and do some testing. I have the back set right and am using the Kapture Group one shot adapter, which "should" be sending the preflash signal to the back.

Ive been able to remove the color cast by putting the mirror up and taking a shot.

Although not ideal, it's a workaround.

Any suggestions for how to work around this? Maybe there is an issue with the Kapture Group box, I wouldnt even know where to start with looking at it. The battery seems good and it works, except when faster than 1/8 and with the mirror not up....

Pictures of settings and attachments below: