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Author Topic: Scanning MRI films  (Read 790 times)

PeterAit

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Scanning MRI films
« on: July 19, 2019, 10:03:13 am »

I am stumped. I have some MRI films that I want to scan and cannot get it to work - at all.

I am using an Epson V750. The films are 14 x 17" so obviously won't fit in any of the film holders - in fact they are about twice as big as the scanner glass so I plan to scan in sections and stitch. So, I set the film right on the glass, remove the white pad from the scanner lid, and set the software to positive film. If I do this with 35mm b&w negatives all works as expected. With the MRI film, however, the preview and the scan itself are extremely slow - perhaps 200 sec for the preview - and the resulting image is  all white with some faint black streaks. Any ideas will be most welcome.
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elliot_n

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Re: Scanning MRI films
« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2019, 10:31:39 am »

It might be easier to photograph them.

When my dad died, I wanted to capture everything he had left behind, including a pile of MRI scans of various parts of his body. I suspended each scan on a 'washing-line' erected three foot in front of a white wall. The wall was lit with two speedlights. I used my D800 to photograph the backlit scans, capturing about thirty in twenty minutes. The files were clean and sharp.
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Garnick

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Re: Scanning MRI films
« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2019, 11:10:12 am »

I am stumped. I have some MRI films that I want to scan and cannot get it to work - at all.

I am using an Epson V750. The films are 14 x 17" so obviously won't fit in any of the film holders - in fact they are about twice as big as the scanner glass so I plan to scan in sections and stitch. So, I set the film right on the glass, remove the white pad from the scanner lid, and set the software to positive film. If I do this with 35mm b&w negatives all works as expected. With the MRI film, however, the preview and the scan itself are extremely slow - perhaps 200 sec for the preview - and the resulting image is  all white with some faint black streaks. Any ideas will be most welcome.

Hi Peter,

First, what scanning app are you using with the V750?  If it's not Silverfast you can stop reading now.  However, if you are using Silverfast, read on!  Not sure if this might be part of the problem, but worth giving it a try I believe.  At the top of the Silverfast window, just below the Logo, you will see the settings I have included below.  If you haven't set the scanner for Wide Transparency it probably isn't scanning the whole image properly.  As Mentioned, give it a try Peter, can't hurt.  See the screenshot below.

If this doesn't fix the issue, just wait a while until Mark D. Segal chimes in.  I'm sure he will be able to help you with this.

   

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Gary N.
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Bart_van_der_Wolf

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Re: Scanning MRI films
« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2019, 03:11:38 pm »

I am stumped. I have some MRI films that I want to scan and cannot get it to work - at all.

I am using an Epson V750. The films are 14 x 17" so obviously won't fit in any of the film holders - in fact they are about twice as big as the scanner glass so I plan to scan in sections and stitch. So, I set the film right on the glass, remove the white pad from the scanner lid, and set the software to positive film. If I do this with 35mm b&w negatives all works as expected. With the MRI film, however, the preview and the scan itself are extremely slow - perhaps 200 sec for the preview - and the resulting image is  all white with some faint black streaks. Any ideas will be most welcome.

Hi Peter,

Make sure you do not block the notch at the top center of the platen. That area is needed to calibrate "White".

Cheers,
Bart
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gchappel

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Re: Scanning MRI films
« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2019, 10:13:52 pm »

Wow, these must be old.  We have not used film for mri for at least 10years or so.
In the past when I needed to digitize film images- usually for a lecture or something- I found it much easier to photograph what I needed. 
At least in my hands, the scanner files never looked as good- although they theoretically should have been better.
Gary
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Garnick

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Re: Scanning MRI films
« Reply #5 on: July 20, 2019, 08:57:56 am »

"At least in my hands, the scanner files never looked as good- although they theoretically should have been better."

You're absolutely correct.  The scanned images should indeed look better that the camera file of any sort of film.  And as with all things, there are of course certain exceptions to my previous statement.  However, what one has keep in mind is the fact that the procedure of scanning, either prints or film, includes much more than simply inserting the image and pressing a button.  With a good scanning app there are many settings that can be employed to produce the best results possible from the original piece, be it film, prints or reproductions of art work, all of which have been part of my business for many years.  It's not an automatic exercise, it in indeed a hands-on procedure, one that requires time to perfect.       
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Gary N.
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PeterAit

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Re: Scanning MRI films
« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2019, 10:38:45 am »

I have this solved, by covering only half the glass with the film. I think Bart may have been on the right track, although I have yet to find a notch.
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PeterAit

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Re: Scanning MRI films
« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2019, 10:40:25 am »

Wow, these must be old.  We have not used film for mri for at least 10years or so.
In the past when I needed to digitize film images- usually for a lecture or something- I found it much easier to photograph what I needed. 
At least in my hands, the scanner files never looked as good- although they theoretically should have been better.
Gary

They are indeed almost 20 years old. My wife had them done when she was suffering migraines (no problems found thankfully) and asked to have copies.
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Bart_van_der_Wolf

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Re: Scanning MRI films
« Reply #8 on: July 21, 2019, 11:11:45 am »

I have this solved, by covering only half the glass with the film. I think Bart may have been on the right track, although I have yet to find a notch.

Peter,

A 'notch' is probably not the correct word, I was searching for "a cutout, a recess" in the film-holder, but you are not using a holder. When you look at the included film-holders, you'll see a wide cutout area at the top that needs to remain unobstructed for calibration. So you need to leave that area free, without film covering it.

Cheers,
Bart
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