LR - Color fringe in shadows

[alejandra.v]

There's sort of a color fringing in some pictures I took recently, where the shadow area seems to have an orange/green tone and lack of detail. This only appears when I open the images in LR, I'm using LR 5.4 on Mac OS Sierra 10.12.5

I used a Canon 6D, 70-200mm, f25, 1/125s, ISO 200 and one Profoto Light. Adobe sRGB.

Is this caused by my version of LR? (I have been postponing an upgrade.) Could it be something related to color management?
I'm attaching a sample photo of this issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[George Marinos]

Maybe a bad Monitor profile?... I have had many problems in the deep shadows in LR and not in PS when the monitor profile was not very good.

[Alexey.Danilchenko]

Is this caused by my version of LR? (I have been postponing an upgrade.) Could it be something related to color management?
I'm attaching a sample photo of this issue.

Is your have monitor profile LUT based? If so try to to use matrix based monitor profile and see if that helps.

[nemophoto]

Are you talking about the faint color within the shadow of the face? Thanks not a "color issue". Unless you have a true black (i.e. - no detail at all), you will have some color tones based on the colors present in the shadow area (in this case skintones). The only way to nullify this is to convert the images to grayscale or B&W-RGB. It lacks detail because of your lighting and contrast and lack of fill of any sort in the shadow area.

If this is NOT what you were talking about, perhaps you can upload an image with the problem area circled.

[David Eichler]

Looks like posterization. Have you applied any kind of processing to the image in Lightroom?

[JeanMichel]

The shadow side is likely highly under-exposed. You may have tried to increase the exposure in LR and since there really is no detail information in the file you are getting the false colour artifact.
And, f/25 is a rather small aperture to use in a portrait image.
Are you sure that you are exposing correctly? Regardless of whatever anyone says to the contrary, you really need a flash meter to set studio flash exposure; trial and error using the camera alone may work but is a poor second best.