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Author Topic: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass  (Read 4225 times)

dgberg

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What a job. Dialing in a new printer with dye sub inks. 10 hours total and was ready to throw in the towel.
Finally got a good profile made with i1 Pro. Once that was done I thought I was there but had all kinds of banding, ghosting,streaking, just about anything you could imagine.
Used up 20% of the first batch of ink and a roll of transfer paper.
Final settings printing out of Lightroom
Print resolution 360
Print Sharpening Standard
16 bit output
Profile P8000 1600 patch
Intent:Relative
Media Plain Paper
Output Resolution 720 dpi
Finest Detail
Color Density +20%
High speed unchecked
Nothing else worked and I tried them all.
Tomorrow I will print out of Qimage and see how that works out.

I ordered a dozen of the sublimation coated glass Colorlyte panels from Conde Systems.
Not quite as high resolution as I thought it might be but still looks pretty good.
Several photos attached. All are 1/8". The 8x10's have a nice beveled edge.
The metal looks fantastic.
I have been talking to the Wasatch folks and they tell me there rip will dial my printer in a little tighter, just not sure if it is worth the $1400 to find out.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2018, 09:18:02 pm by Dan Berg »
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Randy Carone

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2018, 09:23:31 am »

Good stuff Dan!
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Randy Carone

dgberg

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2018, 01:55:18 pm »

Hello Randy
Hope retirement is treating you well?
Purchased the P8000 from Shades.
Jim sent his guys over from NJ to help get it the door to the upper level.
Well worth the delivery charge plus tip.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2018, 07:42:00 pm by Dan Berg »
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John Nollendorfs

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2018, 02:44:51 pm »

Dan:
A bit of clarification for us straight inkjet printers types. When dialing in profiles, do you read the patches off the final media (off the heat transfered aluminum or glass?) as opposed to the transfer media? And, does the temperature and pressing time affect color results?

Just curious, how fiddly an operation this dye sublimation stuff is.

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dgberg

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2018, 03:45:29 pm »

Way too fiddly. The reason being is that I am converting a standard issue P8000 to dye sublimation.
Excluding the press for now the three main ingrediants have no real support as a group.
No support from Epson. Minimal support for the paper and reasonable support from the ink reseller.
You really are on your own when it comes to setting up color management on a converted printer.
The printer is so new that no one to date has used this configuration.
The patches are printed on the transfer paper and then pressed on the Chromaluxe metal. Then read.
Time, temp and air pressure are all a factor and can mess up your results if you are not paying close enough attention.
The metal used to press the profile is the same metal I use for images so I keep my same settings.
400 degrees, 45 psi for 1:30 for 12x18 and larger. Smaller pieces are in for 1:15.
« Last Edit: April 29, 2018, 07:26:34 am by Dan Berg »
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Randy Carone

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2018, 07:33:15 am »

Dan, retirement is wonderful. Emily retired last June and life is good. I bought a P800 (love it) after my well-used 3800 couldn't clear a magenta clog. Tried all the YouTube radical cleans then bought a new printer. I'm doing a project now scanning Kodachrome slides that start during my Dad's service time in Italy with many images of his family in Bari, Italy. Aunts, uncles and 2nd cousins I never had the chance to meet. Amazing photos with stunning clarity and color. The slides move through the years of me and my siblings youth. A fun and fulfilling project that the extended family (I have 14 first cousins and 2 siblings - most have kids) is enjoying on Facebook. A lot of tedious work but well worth it. And my band is still rockin'. We're playing an outdoor gig today during Lambertville's Shad Festival. Check the images on Facebook if you're so inclined.
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Randy Carone

dgberg

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #6 on: April 28, 2018, 10:02:39 am »

Good to hear from you.
Thanks for the update.
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Dan Berg
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dgberg

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2018, 02:34:17 pm »

A shot of the glass print mounted on standoffs.
The waterfall metal print is mounted to a frosted acrylic then wall mounted with stainless standoffs.
The last shot shows a Kozo print on frame, acrylic face mount, metal art print attached to frosted plexi and several Colorlyte glass prints.
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mearussi

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #8 on: May 03, 2018, 06:15:02 am »

Dan, thank you for posting your experience. You've convinced me not to try this at home.  :)
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dgberg

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #9 on: May 03, 2018, 07:16:34 am »

You can do it at home. Many turn key systems out there that do not need any of the setup I am doing.
Many of the smaller printers and press setups can be had for a lot less then the equipment I am comparing.

I have been chastised just slightly for paying too much attention to ink costs, that's ok.
Put the numbers side by side and see what you think.
My Epson P8000 was $4000 including 8000 ml of Ink Owl dye sub ink. (Printer $3195, ink $795 + carts)
The Sawgrass Virtuoso Vj628 25" dye sub printer is $7000 with 880ml of included ink.
If you purchase equal amounts of Sawgrass replacement ink 8000 ml @ .50 ml is $4000 compared to my Ink Owl $795.
Sawgrass Virtuoso 25" VJ628 printer with 16000 ml of additional ink total $15,000
Epson 44" P8000 printer with 16000 ml of additional ink total $4785
That's a no brainer!
« Last Edit: May 03, 2018, 08:19:09 am by Dan Berg »
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John Nollendorfs

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #10 on: May 03, 2018, 11:34:18 am »

Dan:
Did you start up the printer with the Ink Owl sye sub inks, no flushing required? Nozzle pattern printed fine no hassle?

Take it you researched Sawgrass vs Ink Owl. Sawgrass of course has some Wilhelm data.

What are your impressions of using the glass  vs satin aluminum vs glossy aluminum panels?

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dgberg

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #11 on: May 03, 2018, 01:00:58 pm »

It was a brand new out of the box P8000 so the Ink Owl ink was the first in the machine.
After the head alignment I got a perfect nozzle pattern.
I really did my research and wanted the Epson 9890 but I waited too long and they were discontinued.
That was the one to get as many are using them with a Wasatch rip or the Epson driver with profile.
Those refillable carts have resettable chips. You just keep refilling and printing.
I was a little nervous converting the first P8000, although the cart chips are cracked they are not resettable chips.
When the 700ml carts show need for a replacement the chip on the cart must be replaced with a new one. Cost $20.00
Was concerned the printer might have issues with those chips and lock me out. So far so good.
I was torn between J-Teck and InkOwl inks. Cost is .10ml for InkOwl and 11.5ml for J-Teck pretty close.
Sawgrass ink for my Epson 4880 dye sub converted printer was costing me about $1.10 a ml or eleven times my new ink cost.
Sawgrass had the monopoly for years but the party is over as the patent ran out I believe in Sept. 2016.
Their product is good but their prices are too far out of line and not competitive.

Most if not all my metal prints are for the home owner consumer market. Family, pets, vacation, photography enthusiests, etc.
If you believe the numbers 7 years is the average length of time this type of wall art hangs in a home before being changed out.
I think I read somewhere that 25 to 30+ years is an average estimate before dye sub metals start to fade. (Chromauxe says 65 years.)
Certainly not a 100 but way better then 7.

I just love the glass.  Now that my profile is dialed in the glass is in the same league as the metal.
I found only one other print studio selling the glass prints and they were expensive. If I can keep my costs in line I should be able to sell them for about the same price as the metals.
I sell only the hi-gloss white aluminum although I just ordered several of the semi gloss to test. Will report back.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2018, 01:33:55 pm by Dan Berg »
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alleng

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #12 on: May 03, 2018, 03:05:34 pm »

What kind of heat press are you using?

I have a Sawgrass SG800 with a 16x20 press, but I would love to go bigger.
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dgberg

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #13 on: May 03, 2018, 03:50:25 pm »

I have 2 Knights the DK20S and Dk25SP a 20x25 swing with air.
I purchased the larger printer to go larger but cannot afford the 44x64 Maxxi.
Even the 32x42 is pretty darn pricy.
Think I will stick with what I have for now. Advertise for the larger pieces on my website and farm the pressing out to Conde.
If the orders for larger metals start rolling in then I can rethink upsizing to a larger press
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John Nollendorfs

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Re: Dye Sub P8000 up and running printing and pressing Colorlyte glass
« Reply #14 on: May 03, 2018, 04:26:06 pm »

Dan:
Thanks for all the info. Those dye sub prints sure look great, but are pricey! I bet a stack of them aluminum panels are not too light! Good luck with the Dye Sub venture. I would consider for my own photography, but my specialty is art reproduction printing.

Sounds like a the 16x20 press would let you do prints and tee shirts! ;-) I guess it's something to consider?

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