I think you could comfortably put Sarah at one pole, and Richard Avedon at the other. But then where would you place Annie and Saul? I'd say Saul is much closer to Sarah and Annie to Richard, both for their images and their personas (which are probably the reason for the images). Sieff would be in the Avedon hemisphere but far from the pole. Robert Frank ? Diane Arbus? Things start to get messy when the "masculinity" of the image is less well aligned with gung-ho self promotion.
Then think about Georgia O'Keefe: an extremely confident woman, not at all accepting of assigned feminine roles, who painted flowers. But erotic flowers. Not the sort of thing Picasso would do, but I can't imagine her wilting under his gaze
It would be interesting to look at Soames's paintings... and how they relate to Saul's photographic whimsy.
Now this is interesting, and what LuLa should embrace more energetically.
Not sure about Sarah and Dick: there's the commonality of Pirelli Cals; the fashion bibles too - to an extent - but yes, they differ markedly in the other respects. I don't know if Moon was ever into LF but he certainly was. Neither do I think he used smaller than 120 format - but I don't really know and so the farm's safe from that one.
I can't see myself comparing Annie and Saul at all. I feel Saul was honest in his vision but Annie the ultimate contriver. Which is perhaps what's required of her in her gigs and in her epoch. Saul's fashion work is actually quite a lot more technically 'clever' than the work in the three books I have would suggest; he was certainly not unaware of fashionable stylisms and tricks, and could light, too. I have discovered quite a lot more of his fashion stuff in the Internet, and find echoes even of William Klein at times. (Boy, the cookie collection I garner from trawling for these guys! I had over nine hundred cookies to remove this morning. And I do that chore every day, but seldom have such a score. I wish I could sell them instead of killing them.)
Jeanloup I would not place in Avedon's zone at all. He seems to me to be firmly within the Frank Horvat, William Klein, Bailey, Duffy but
not Donovan group: tendency towards gritty b/white street fashion with a definite male eye. Even some of the Helmut stuff falls into that cluster of types. Donovan, Lategan and Avedon are closer together, I think, because they do seem to go for the studied rather than snapped, though yeah, Donovan also did a lot of thirty-five mil. and did have his share of grit in the early days, but as with Bailey, he moved to commercials. Indeed, Bailey no longer likes to be called a fashion photographer.
Sara could fit quite well within the same largish box as Sheila Metzner and Deborah Turbeville, all three very feminine in approach - I think. But she'd still be the one a little bit more distinctive than the others.
Robert Frank is a difficult one. One has to ask if he was really a photographer at all. Yes, he did a lot of shooting to come up with the very brief
Americans book, but remember that he got the hell out of it almost right after that, and as a young man still; he seems to have had a bug for making odd movies that didn't go very far. But later fame came with the book, so it didn't matter...
Arbus I don't like very much at all. I don't think of her as a marker for photography, but as a talent for going where others would not. I think there has been a period where I have given her the benefit of my doubt, but if I actually did, it hasn't lasted.
Truth to tell, there are very few heroes whose books I would buy. On that list remain Peccinotti, Ernst Haas and Moon.
Rob