Sync speeds with CFV-50c and 500 C/M

[jamiemphoto]

Apologies if I just really suck at searching, I truly tried to see if this was a duplicate topic:

When the manual says "C" series lenses in reference to flash sync, does it mean all C, CF, etc? I initially assumed it was just the chrome and maybe C T* lenses as well.

In addition, does the C/M count as "Modified"?

And all adding up to the question: Is the minimum sync speed on two C lenses and a CF lens on a 500 C/M 1/90?

[Chris Livsey]

The 1/90th refers to the F series bodies, the focal plane shutter in the F body only syncs at 1/90th or slower (the maximum speed at which the shutter exposes all the frame simultaneously 1/90th).
On a C or C/M body the sync is to the lens leaf shutter which fully exposes the frame at all speeds, (it is possible to use a CF lens on the F body and use the lens shutter disabling the focal plane shutter, or use the F setting to use the focal plane shutter and not the leaf shutter, that is what the C/F refers to C and F body compatibility of the lens.)

The sync to the leaf shutter is common to all variants of the lenses, (except the F which have no shutter) the C/M refers to the modified body (1970) for interchangeable screens it has no effect on flash sync. The T* designation refers to the lens coating and is not relevant to flash sync or shutter.

So your last line: And all adding up to the question: Is the minimum sync speed on two C lenses and a CF lens on a 500 C/M 1/90?

No, the leaf shutter in a C or CF lens will sync at all speeds, up to 1/500th (which you should test first as it can be a touch slow, easily crudely done by viewing a flash through the lens with the back off the body to observe the light) or down to 1 sec.

Which manual are you reading? It sounds as if the F bodies are confusing you.
I hope my expansion has not further confused you.

Edited as I was thinking of the gliding mirror not the screen as I typed, then came to my senses.

[ErikKaffehr]

Thanks for good info!

Best regards
Erik

The 1/90th refers to the F series bodies, the focal plane shutter in the F body only syncs at 1/90th or slower (the maximum speed at which the shutter exposes all the frame simultaneously 1/90th).
On a C or C/M body the sync is to the lens leaf shutter which fully exposes the frame at all speeds, (it is possible to use a CF lens on the F body and use the lens shutter disabling the focal plane shutter, or use the F setting to use the focal plane shutter and not the leaf shutter, that is what the C/F refers to C and F body compatibility of the lens.)

The sync to the leaf shutter is common to all variants of the lenses, (except the F which have no shutter) the C/M refers to the Mirror being larger to prevent vignetting in the viewfinder it has no effect on flash sync. The T* designation refers to the lens coating and is not relevant to flash sync or shutter.

So your last line: And all adding up to the question: Is the minimum sync speed on two C lenses and a CF lens on a 500 C/M 1/90?

No, the leaf shutter in a C or CF lens will sync at all speeds, up to 1/500th (which you should test first as it can be a touch slow, easily crudely done by viewing a flash through the lens with the back off the body to observe the light) or down to 1 sec.

Which manual are you reading? It sounds as if the F bodies are confusing you.
I hope my expansion has not further confused you.

[Chris Livsey]

Thanks for good info!

Best regards
Erik

Pleasure, when a system has been going since 1948  (1600F) things can get a bit complex.
I was thinking of the gliding mirror that causes confusion as the 501C is a "modern" body without the GMS the 501CM has the GMS bit gets confused with the early 500C/M, The two Ms being Modified in the latter and Mirror in the former. Almost makes Leica model names sensible!!

[jamiemphoto]

Thank you for the info!! I have a 500 C/M with one C lens and (as of today) two CF lenses. I had been having weird issues, but it might have been something to do with the body that jammed shortly after said issues. Thankfully things seem to be panning out, but I had that moment of panic when reading the instructions. I feel much better about things now.

[DanielStone]

Thank you for the info!! I have a 500 C/M with one C lens and (as of today) two CF lenses. I had been having weird issues, but it might have been something to do with the body that jammed shortly after said issues. Thankfully things seem to be panning out, but I had that moment of panic when reading the instructions. I feel much better about things now.

It's a COMMON problem for V-series lenses to have flash-sync port problems. Easily fixed for most CF lenses, not as easily so for C-series lenses however.

-Dan

[jamiemphoto]

Thank you! Things seem to be all kosher until I get down to a 1/2 second and I have a double burst issue ... but I almost never drag my shutter that long, and if it goes any longer than that, I can just manually pop the things. Most of my flash work is 1/15 or faster, so I'm set. Now if I can just figure out how to fine tune the focus ...

[jng]

Now if I can just figure out how to fine tune the focus ...

Glad to hear that your digital V system is working out for you!

Re: focus - you no doubt have discovered how unforgiving a 50 Mp back can be on an old manual focus system. It helps to use the later generation folding focusing hood, which has a slightly higher magnification than the older one and is also brighter than the 45 or 90 degree prisms. I mostly use a magnifying loupe on a PME 51 prism for my 501CM/IQ160 combo; if I take my time I can usually (but not always) nail the focus on my first attempt. Note that with the 500 series bodies the mirror goes out of alignment with use and time, which throws off the screen's focus relative to the sensor plane. One easy way to check is to set the lens at infinity and observe whether the image on the screen is sharp when viewing a far (and I mean really far) distant object. If not, this is a fairly easy problem to solve in the hands of a good technician who has the right tools at his/her disposal. And then there's the type of focusing screen one uses but this is a whole 'nother rabbit hole and perhaps a topic best left for another thread if anyone is interested.

-John

[jamiemphoto]

Thanks for the hints! I'm pretty sure it's out of alignment, as I have to intentionally blur the image to find the right focus (mostly by trial and error via previews) ... even with a diopter adjustment for my not-so-wonderful eyes. That said, I DEFINITELY notice how unforgiving the thing is. It's getting to be fun to have such a demanding camera, though. It's a 500 C/M, so I am sure it's probably in need of tweaking by now. Thankfully, there's Garland Camera and Repair not far from me, with a truly excellent Hasselblad guru ... at least until he retires.

But yeah, I'll definitely make sure to start a thread/revive an old one if this persists.

[jng]

Yes it's unforgiving but there's also a certain satisfaction in nailing the focus that's not unlike the feeling of doing a perfect heel and toe, double clutch downshift. Enjoy!


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[Chris Livsey]

You indeed must enjoy a challenge to work with this combination.
A tune up of the body is well worthwhile but check the repair shop has the set up jig for alignment of the body it's not just the focus plane the whole body can go out of whack. Too many are good on the mechanicals but lack the correct equipment to re-align.

On focus: I use a HARTBLEI HASSELBLAD MAGNIFYING HOOD FINDER 52 x 52, link below, no commercial connection, it provides a x4 view and with a split image screen nails focus, subject to moving the camera after!! There is a reason Hasselblad use True Focus in the H series, H4 onwards, it is that fine.

http://www.hartbleilens.com/product_info.php?products_id=6
I bought a cosmetic seconds even less money, just a blemish on the casting finish not affecting performance.

BTW Hasselblad made a similar product for a short while, so not many appear S/H, The Magnifying Hood 4x4 DPS Ref 72534