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Author Topic: uncurling rolled fine art paper  (Read 9592 times)

stephenjedgar

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uncurling rolled fine art paper
« on: March 12, 2009, 10:29:57 am »

hi Everyone

I'm a newbie here, but that being said, I've been shooting professionally for almost 20 years...and now I'm buying my first inkjet printer -go figure.

I've been testing some rolls of fine art paper for a bindery project I've got on the go.  I cannot for the life of me uncurl the paper enough to bind this into a book...
What gives?  My bindery guy even put a couple thousand lbs of pressure over a significant time period and....it curls right back to its roll form.
Purchasing sheets is just not cost effective for this project but I'm afraid its the only way to go.

Please Help?  This is starting to hurt a little.
it doesn't have to be fine art paper either....but matte would be nice.  I welcome ANY out of the box thinking here!

many many thanks

steve
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Dave Carter

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« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2009, 10:45:03 am »

Steve,
I find it helps a lot to roll long pieces of the paper in reverse on another roller and leave them sit overnight.  Than I usually lay them out flat for use.  There are also a number of commerical items that help.  Serach this site or Google for discussion about them.  One that comes to mind is www.D-Roller.com.  

I am sure you can get there from here.  But, I have to admit, I try to use sheet stock for albums.
Dave
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stephenjedgar

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« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2009, 10:55:31 am »

Quote from: Dave_C
Steve,
I find it helps a lot to roll long pieces of the paper in reverse on another roller and leave them sit overnight.  Than I usually lay them out flat for use.  There are also a number of commerical items that help.  Serach this site or Google for discussion about them.  One that comes to mind is www.D-Roller.com.  

I am sure you can get there from here.  But, I have to admit, I try to use sheet stock for albums.
Dave

thanks Dave!

yes, sheets may be the way to go however being the last guy on the block to own an inkjet printer, I was quite surprised at price difference.  Could I ask you what paper you use?

s
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Dave Carter

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« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2009, 11:38:31 am »

Epson Premium Semigloss, Enhanced Matte, Doubleweight Matte, Singleweight Matte, Ultrasmooth Fine Art and once in a while Canvas
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framah

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« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2009, 03:45:51 pm »

If I want to flatten my paper, I put it in to my heatpress and then cool it under weights.

So, my suggestion is to go to a local framer and ask if they could flatten your prints for you.
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peteh

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« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2009, 05:06:21 pm »

Quote from: framah
If I want to flatten my paper, I put it in to my heatpress and then cool it under weights.

So, my suggestion is to go to a local framer and ask if they could flatten your prints for you.
D-Roller check here..
http://www.shadesofpaper.com/product_info....products_id=114
Expensive ,but it works.
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framah

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« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2009, 09:20:09 am »

That D roller is WAYYY overpriced!!!

I've done the same thing as  the D roller with a cardboard tube and a window blind for under $10. I have flattened posters and prints quite nicely with this.

For me using the heat table is the quicker  way  especially with multiples pieces.
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digitaldog

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« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2009, 09:51:08 am »

According to Mac Holbert of Nash Editions who also speaks at the Epson Print Academy about this, DO NOT roll the prints in the opposite direction! Apparently many types of paper will be damaged (cracked) doing this despite the advise of others. Lay it flat with wights on each corner.
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Justan

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« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2009, 01:24:36 pm »

^^There was another thread recently where I suggested the possibility mentioned above.

A simple test would be to select an area of a test print and look at it with a microscope. Use the reverse roll technique and then look at the same area again. If the area shows damage then reverse rolling is probably not a good idea.

I’ve uses a bunch of fabric covered bean bags to lay on top of a print for a while and it’s worked with a variety of HP papers.

Wayne Fox

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« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2009, 01:49:08 pm »

Quote from: Justan
^^There was another thread recently where I suggested the possibility mentioned above.

A simple test would be to select an area of a test print and look at it with a microscope. Use the reverse roll technique and then look at the same area again. If the area shows damage then reverse rolling is probably not a good idea.

I’ve uses a bunch of fabric covered bean bags to lay on top of a print for a while and it’s worked with a variety of HP papers.


hmmm, now where did I put that microscope?  

I have found the d-roller to be quite effective - didn't think that it might mess up the print.
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Dale Allyn

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« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2009, 03:18:08 am »

Quote from: Wayne Fox
hmmm, now where did I put that microscope?  

I have found the d-roller to be quite effective - didn't think that it might mess up the print.

Wayne et al, I have a D-roller en route because I'm tired of doing it the "cheap" way. I have used various rolling and weighting techniques, some of which cause their own problems. If one has time, one can weight the print in a very slightly concave "basin", but if you're needing to mat and deliver a print within 48 hours (after out-gassing) then this method doesn't work on heavy papers.

With the mention of the damage caused by the D-roller I will inspect my prints carefully (and with a Leica stereo zoom MZ-12 microscope and fiber optic light  ), but this is the first I had heard of it. I wonder if this is more common with certain paper types (such as gloss, Baryta or semi-gloss, etc.).

One technique that I found to work for some prints was to mimic the D-roller process by rolling a print in a roll of wrapping paper. That seemed to work until I did it to a "high key" type of image with lots of negative white space. When viewed obliquely (after matted and framed) I could see where the paper slightly dented itself because the wrapping paper didn't protect the print from the end of the 308 gsm paper "shelf". Just a heads-up if one wants to do the D-roller on the cheap -> Don't use light-weight wrapping paper as your tool, and roll it carefully when it passes over the end of the print.

I agree that the D-roller is over-priced, but my time and results are worth more to me. Now I hope that I don't find myself "cracking" my prints.
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jdoyle1713

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« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2009, 12:07:08 pm »

The D-oller Is a hair expensive but its a Tool. I try and get the price down with a 50.00 rebate with the purchase of any roll of paper on my website. Its The best I can Do. As for harming prints..I Know the Droller doesnt like Alpha cell Papers all the time sometimes it wants to crease them. On Rag and Others seems to be fine..

Cheers
Jim Doyle
http://www.shadesofpaper.com
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jdoyle1713

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« Reply #12 on: March 15, 2009, 12:10:11 pm »

Forgot to mention this but Michael did a video review of this product its under D in the reviews section so go and watch it!

Cheers
Jim Doyle
http://www.shadesofpaper.com
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Dale Allyn

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« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2009, 01:50:54 pm »

Quote from: jdoyle1713
The D-oller Is a hair expensive but its a Tool. I try and get the price down with a 50.00 rebate with the purchase of any roll of paper on my website. Its The best I can Do. As for harming prints..I Know the Droller doesnt like Alpha cell Papers all the time sometimes it wants to crease them. On Rag and Others seems to be fine..

Cheers
Jim Doyle
http://www.shadesofpaper.com


Good info, Jim.

Thanks
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