Best Way To Get Rid Of People?

[Andy M]

The groups can be huge and move very slowly, sometimes they stay in one area for a long time. When it happened to me 2 years ago, I just photographed the tour groups.    
http://www.pbase.com/camboman/tourists_at_angkor
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I was looking at your photos a few minutes ago - very amusing

I'm beginning to think that Angkor's temples will very much lend themselves to infrared photography.

Can anybody recommend a specific filter which may be used on my 17-40L?

[Camboman]

Can anybody recommend a specific filter which may be used on my 17-40L?
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The Hoya R72 (720nm) is the standard, you'll need a tripod as it's a visually opaque filter. But the filter is only half the equation, the anti-IR filter in front of your sensor will determine how much exposure is needed to get a good histogram. My old Nikon d70 (a good choice for IR) lost 9 stops to the R72 filter, my newer d80 needed much more exposure, so much so that I gave up trying to use an external filter with it. I now use a Lifepixel converted d80 and I'm in heaven!

[BernardLanguillier]

Indeed, what you say about it is correct... I have seen a nearly identical shot before in these forums. Why not forego the typical wide-angle shot and push for telephoto... isolate a particular point of interest. By choosing a telephoto approach, you could isolate a particular area and possibly re-vision it. By doing so, you might also increase your chances of avoiding cliche, but also decrease the problem of people in your shot. Of course, if you choose poorly or there simply isn't a good angle to be found, you may magnify the problem of people in your shots.
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Frankly speaking, I believe that every single possible angle of Angkor Wat has been photographed hunderds of times, whatever the lens...

In the end only the sky and light quality matters... which means that you have 2 options:

1. Either be extremely lucky (like I was last year)
2. Spend a lot of time on the spot

Cheers,
Bernard

[BernardLanguillier]

Maybe this:

http://www.photoacute.com/studio/index.html

Haven't tried myself yet though.

Cheers,
Bernard

[elkhornsun]

During the week I was there tourists were never a problem. If a tour group was going into one complex I went to another or would go the opposite side as the tour group. We might meet in the middle but at either end I would have the area to myself.

Even in areas with statuary it was easy enough to wait several minutes for people to move on before taking the shot. It gave me time to more carefully consider lighting and composition, varying the amount of fill flash, etc. instead of shot gunning it.

I highly recommend hiring a car and driver. You get someone who knows the area well and how to work around the tours, air conditioning for a break, and a place to stash extra gear and have it watched. You also get a guide and interpreter and have a better chance of finding out of the way spots in the countryside.

[Mike Louw]

Why use such old fashioned techniques when you can solve problem with 'Amenabar' written by one of our very own posters on here, GLuijk?   
http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....topic=13139&hl= 
PS3 extended came out with something similar a bit later.
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Unfortunately GLuijk's progs seem to be available only for Windows. For Mac users, to avoid the huge expense of buying CS3 extended (an expense which is even huger when buying it in Europe; don't get me started....) try [a href=\"http://www.photoacute.com]Photoacute[/url]. I've never used it for removing people, but it claims to be able to do so, and it has lived up to its other claims in my experience.

Mike

Edit: oops, just saw Bernard's post above.

[Nick Rains]

Unfortunately GLuijk's progs seem to be available only for Windows. For Mac users, to avoid the huge expense of buying CS3 extended (an expense which is even huger when buying it in Europe; don't get me started....) try Photoacute. I've never used it for removing people, but it claims to be able to do so, and it has lived up to its other claims in my experience.

Mike

Edit: oops, just saw Bernard's post above.
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If you shoot film (!), or have a D3, you can do multiple exposures (not multiple frames) - simply build up a single exposure in short 'bits' when there are no people in frame. Architecture guys do this.

Do 8 x 1 sec exposures at -3 stops each and time each one to be between crowds. That would be the same as a single 8 sec exposure.

[Mike Louw]

Interesting feature of the D3 Nick; I didn't know that (not that I have a D3).