V series and digital

[klane]

Im on the verge of coming into the world of mf digital. I would really like to use a v series Hasselblad, but I have a few concerns with focus accuracy.  Are any of you that shoot with a V series hassy having any trouble with focus accuracy?  

Im really only considering the V series, I was going to use my Rollei 6001 but leaf and phase do not support the platform.  

The backs Im considering are the Valeo 17, Aptus 17 and the Phase p21. So any one that is using these backs feel free to chime in.

Thanks in advance,
Kyle

[tom_l]

Hello,
I'm using a 503cw with a P25, and yes, it works. Lenses are still great, I did some tests with a P45 too, and results are marvellous too.

Sharpness may be an issue. I think you will have to do some tests.
I do studio, no weddings, no fashion, no handheld. I get sharp results without problems (and I don't consider having good eyes), but of course, this is studio, there is a lot of light. But I wonder if AF is not a way to go in some years.;-(

I used to do some documentary, handheld location work (personal projects). 1/60 is a no go for me, you need 1/125s at least. I am used to do some 1/15 handheld with my D2xand it works fine, but with MF, it's simply not possible.


Tom

[Graham Mitchell]

The Rollei platform is supported by Sinar (and possibly Hasselblad too). There is also a Phase One solution of sorts: http://www.rollei-metric.com/uploads/files...al%20metric.pdf

[AndrewDyer]

Gday Kyle.
I am using an Aptus 22 on the 503cw and find it to be great... but I only do studio or Landscape/Architecture shots...
In other words they are not moving subjects so focusing is not a problem.

If you are used to focusing accurately with film on the V series, then you should find it ok with digital too. At least you can easily take a few more shots "just in case" with digital, and have a "full zoom" focus confirmation on the Aptus back.
I have used an Aptus 75 on it as well, and found the lenses still held up at that resolution too.
But I guess it will depend on what type of work you want to use it for.
all the best.
A

[Carl Glover]

Graham is right - Hasselblad do have adapters for the Rollei 6000 series.

[klane]

Graham is right - Hasselblad do have adapters for the Rollei 6000 series.
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Yes I know, and the only back they make I can afford is a square sensor, which isnt practical for me ive realized. Plus I really like Leaf's new software, and the look of the dalsa chip files (yes I realize sinar also has the dalsa)

Oddly enough I have some leads on cheap H1 packages.....I may just take a total swing and go that  direction.

I'm kind of sick of worrying about it, probably which ever system I find sooner with a leaf back is the one Ill probably get.  

Graham- Ill probably come back to Rollei (hy6) when money will allow it. Until then would you like to take some Rollei gear off my hands in the next few weeks  

[wolfphotos]

I've just gone that same route myself- Aptus 22 with Hassie 503.
I did this primarily to bump up the "oooh" factor for my corporate portraiture, and, indeed, it certainly did that. Everything is shot on location, often under dim light for focussing.
With Macro 120 lens the the sharpness is almost cruel- in the old darkroom days I used to apply my 20% 'kindness filter' (neutral density pantyhose under the enlarger lens) to soften the skin pores- this might require 30%!
Never having looked at film under the microscope of 100%, I'd venture to say that digital is easily the equivalent- those V lenses are sharp in either media.
Re the focusing- if shooting with shallow depth of field, you just have to be careful- no different than with film.
In other words, no issues going digital with any of the old Blad gear.
Cheers
Wolf

[Chris Livsey]

V series here with the P20 ( I know not your choice but mine was based on price, amateur ie the photography doesn't generate the cash just consumes it).

I tend to use prisms and find wrapping the cable across and round then down to the lens coils it nicely out of the way - not an issue.

Crop factor really concerned me but was never a problem. I appreciate seeing out of the frame, similar to the rangefinder experience.

Focus does seem more critical, as many have commented on, a combination of sensors being flatter and therefore less forgiving than film and the perceived smaller dof ie the plane of focus appears more sharply defined than in film work. Just ignore those outdated dof figures on the lens.I use the grid screen with split image and have found it spot on. An issue arises in older or more heavily used bodies where registration accuracy may have shifted 'blad recommend a service and I would concur, my bodies had recently been and were accurate.

Handheld I wouldn't contemplate less than 1/125th and I frequently lock up the mirror handheld then crop and correct horizon in post. That mirror is a huge moving mass. Obviously on a decent tripod no issue.

Just a real treat to use the lenses and all those bits and pieces accumulated with a modern back AND with a film alternative in the bag/film back.

Lens wise the consesus is 40mmFE 100mm 120mm 180mm IF in the 40 if you can. Not that I have found my others poor just a little less good. I have files shot on H with HC lenses and on P30+ and P45+ mine are not embarrassed at "normal" sizes although I would like the asa range they offer.

I do contemplate going H with adapter for the lenses but then I don't find exposure an issue especially with the instant back feedback nor do I see the autofocus that big a deal I turn the ring and put it where I want it. If I wanted all that fancy tracking and predictive 3D stuff I would take a D3. I think it's just cool to use cutting edge digital (well it would be if I had a P30   on this classic camera.

Don't forget the world out there is full of S/H lenses and bits at "reasonable" prices if you fancy a lens you can buy then sell back with little or no loss.

[skywalker_shiva]

Hi Kyle,

I initated into digital with a Canon 1Ds Mark II.
Focusing was hit and miss and no, its not easy using manual focus using the Canon lenses.
Only the 1.4 or 1.8 primes were relatively easy to manual focus.

I recently traded my Canon body for an Aptus.
The Hassselblad was taken out of its premature retirement and is back in business.
Had to get the body serviced coz the mirror was out of whack but thats about it.

I use a Aptus 65 with a Hassy 503 and 8 lenses.
All the lenses range from 40mm to 180mm.
Trust me those 'vintage' non AF lenses won't let you down.

Focus is bang on with all the lenses though I find the 150mm Cfi to be the weakest of my lot.
Even though its my newest lens and was great with film, its not up to it with digital.
I don't know, maybe mine is a faulty one.

DOF is apparently around 1 - 1.5 stop shallower than with film so be prepared to stop down.

So far I have mainly used in the studio with flash so I can't comment on hand held shooting
but it doesn't seem any different than it did with film. Especially with an Aptus.
Its slightly larger than my old filmback and ofcourse, heavier.

The lens to back sync cable is annoying in the beginning but you get used to it in time.

I have tried the H1 a couple of times and always tended to use in manual focus mode out of habit. I don't like to focus & then recompose.

So instead of changing platforms, I decided to hold on to my god ol 'Blad. Its definitely more handsome than the 'new version'.

How the Aptus doin ?
We'll leave that for another day and if you wanna know but it's sure got the smile back on my face when I'm shooting these days.


Cheers

 

[rquindry]

Hi,

I'm using a 501CM with a Hassy CFV back and am very pleased with it. Focus is dead on. Focusing with digital is critical though and you need to make sure that your Hassy is top condition. As they age the foam in the finder mechanism (that's behind the mirror??) deteriorates, causing the mirror to sit in the wrong place and causing the focus point that you see in the finder to be a different distance from the film plane causing the problems that some encounter. So be sure to send your camera in for service if it's old. (mine was purchased in 2001 and didn't need to have anything done.

Rich Quindry

[psorantin]

Hi Kyle,
I am using a Hassy 503cw, regular waiste level finder and an Aptus-17.

Accurate focus is straightfoward for landscape, architecture etc.
Moving objects - the usual limitations of manual focusing, but not harder than with other cameras.
One hint: Replace the standard focusing screen with a brighter one, that helps.

If focusing is not correct, have camera checked as recommended above. My fairly new 503cw worked OK out of the box. Not sure if Aptus backs can be shimmed if required.

Following portrait was photographed wide open with the 120mm macro lens; so focus is accurate on my combo. The Aptus-17 files deliver beautifully, I love particularly their color accuracy (if you use custom white balance with the kind of expodisc that comes with the Aptus.

Peter
Portrait:
[attachment=4602:attachment]

100% crop:
[attachment=4603:attachment]

[psorantin]

For those here who use the V-system 40mm lens:

How good is it in terms of distortion and in terms of bookeh?
(since my Aptus-17 creates a 1.3 crop factor on the 503, distortion might not be an issue, though).

I use the 50mm a lot, sharpness is great, but out-of-focus areas sometimes exhibit a kind of nervous pattern for backgrounds like high grass, branches or leaves.

Peter

[Russell Price]

For those here who use the V-system 40mm lens:

How good is it in terms of distortion and in terms of bookeh?
(since my Aptus-17 creates a 1.3 crop factor on the 503, distortion might not be an issue, though).

I use the 50mm a lot, sharpness is great, but out-of-focus areas sometimes exhibit a kind of nervous pattern for backgrounds like high grass, branches or leaves.

Peter
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I shot with my 120 Macro on a 553 ELX with an Imacon 96 back and had no problems.  I also used a P21 and loved it.

When I was testing the Imacon I made a few portraits in low-light and was able to hit the focus on 90 plus percent of the images.

I know quite a few shooters who still use the Hassy "V" cameras and use Phase, Imacon or Aptus backs.  I don't know of anyone complaining about focus.  Although I think it is important that you upgrade your Hasselblad by buying a Brightscreen.  There is a guy in Georgia in the States who makes super bright screens.  Don't know his name off-hand, but I have heard of him.

[bradleygibson]

Graham is right - Hasselblad do have adapters for the Rollei 6000 series.
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Really?  I think it would be difficult to maintain infinity focus since the flange distances for the Hassy 500 and Rollei 6000 mounts differs by less than half a millimeter -- I imagine it's hard to make an adapter that thin.

Regardless,  I'd like to take a look if you could provide a link.

Thanks, Carl,
Brad

Update:Whoops, never mind...  I just received a message pointing me to a back adapter to mount Hassy CF backs to a Rollei 6000.  I misunderstood and assumed Carl and Graham were talking about lenses.  My bad!  Thanks for the head's up.

[mazma]

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5294..._Plate_Kit.html

or, as i did, search on google for
hasselblad adapter for rollei

hope it helps

meanwhile my two cents.
i am considering buying a 503CW with a phase back (p25, possibly). it seemes to work great, for the little i tried it. i am a bit scared of going back to full manual focus, as i do a lot of lifestyle and people, but i also miss it at the same time. the other option is the Mamiya 645AFDII, but it looks so similar to a bigger nikon, that i almost prefer to wait at that point...

[klane]

Thanks for the replys everyone, now if anyone knows of a place with a refurb valeo or aptus 17 in stock that would be fantastic

[tomholland]

I am just leaving the v system with the leaf back for an afi system. Be aware that the sync electronics in your lenses may need to be replaced and also be prepared for some flakiness from the lens to back cable. I have had enough problems to have me ditch the V and go to the afi which hopefully will be in my hot little hands in the next week.

Check how the back functions at lower shutter speeds as this is where the sync electronics become an issue due to a carbon build-up. Also don't assume that your sync port is ok if it will fire your flashes correctly. I would test your lenses with the back as the lens repair is quite pricey

[H1/A75 Guy]

I am just leaving the v system with the leaf back for an afi system.
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Tom,
Just curious and a bit off topic but congrats on your AFI. Would that be an AFi7 you will have in a week?
David

[Bernd B.]

There is not much I would like to add.

Focussing with WLF and Acute Matte "B" screen is perfect under every lighting. The most accurate and easy focussing I ever had (after I changed the defective screen I formerly had).

I only found the 80 mm weak at open aperture, but my 1988 150 CF (serviced in 2006 by Zeiss) is a fantastic performer even at open aperture.

There won´t be much occasions for shooting handheld if you want sharp pictures. Use tripod and mirror up with each shot (my recommendation). With my H3D it´s the same routine. My feeling is that Hassy H and V have a similar mirror slap.

My five lenses (50CF FLE, 60 CF, 100CF, 80CF and 150 CF) all synchronized the back well, but I had to try out some different settings. For example with my 500 ELX I had to choose "large format camera".

Best,

Bernd

[psorantin]

My five lenses (50CF FLE, 60 CF, 100CF, 80CF and 150 CF) all synchronized the back well, but I had to try out some different settings. For example with my 500 ELX I had to choose "large format camera".

Best,

Bernd
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Bernd,
How do you like the 50CF?
That is the one lens I have mixed feelings about due to its (nervous) rendering of out-of-focus areas. Is that just me?

Since the Aptus-17 has a crop factor of 1.3, the 50mm gets close to a normal lens, so I use it a lot.

How do you like the 60mm in comparison to the 50?

Bye,
Peter