Leaf asa 25 vs Phase P30 100 asa

[Snook]

Well coming down to the final decision here pretty soon but wanted to ask the forums what they thought about the differences in asa setting between the Leaf and Phase...
Leaf Aptus 22 has a 25 asa setting and I thought the P30 was 50 but doing some further research saw that it has 100 asa minimum. Seeing how I have an AFDII that syncs at 125/th only, Seems pretty handy 25 asa for outdoor flash techniques??
Just seeing what others think and if they pondered the same differences before making a decision.
Thanks for any imput...:+}
Also, not to sound stupid but does the 25 asa of the Leaf  produce a much less noisy (sharper) file than a 100 asa P30 file in or out of Studio?
Snook

[Morgan_Moore]

Leaf Aptus 22 has a 25 asa setting and I thought the P30 was 50 but doing some further research saw that it has 100 asa minimum.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=152133\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

My desicsion was to get an H1

(I did own a Mam and 100ISO (proback) - the worst combo I ever owned ever )

EVER EVER EVER

Can you even hold a telephoto at 125 safely ?

To me as 'people on location' shooter the mam is a non starter

The higher flash sysnch also reduces the amount of flash light you need to balance to ambient AND the size ofthe batteries

That to me means I can go unassisted with a couple of  Q FLashes rather than needing an elly ranger or suchlike wich is well heavy

If you are spending the money on the back just bin the mamiya system - its probably 25% of the cost of the back anyway

My opinion : DONT DO IT

But I have a friend who shoots P30 and mimya 90% studio or F11 outdoors on a tripod and is a very happy camper

Well actually he is talking going H1 too

Depends on what you do

S

[amsp]

I have a P25, and both 50 and 100 ISO are pretty much noiceless.

[Dustbak]

I was very happy with ISO25 on my Aptus. I kind of miss it now & than on the CF. The range 25-400 was very nice. Now, I have 50-400.

The Aptus was very clean at 25 but I could not say whether it is cleaner than the Hasselblad is at 50.

[Snook]

Thanks for the replies so far...
Morgan. why such a negative on the 645 and Aptus or Phase?
Care to add anymore, Never heard ANY body so against them...:+}
Thanks
Snook
PS. Isn't the H1 the one everyone is trying to get rid of right now?

[godtfred]

PS. Isn't the H1 the one everyone is trying to get rid of right now?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=152181\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Maybe on this forum they are  

Seriously, I just got two H2's and a P45+ to replace my H3D-39, and it's so far behaving very well. See how well the contax platform is doing, why should not the H1/2 platform thrive in it's own obsoleteness  

[Morgan_Moore]

Thanks for the replies so far...
Morgan. why such a negative on the 645 [a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=152181\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Funny one minute I am being bonked in one corner for knocking sinar the next for knocking mamiya and phase the next for being a hassy basher

I guess its my brutal linguistict which are always meant to be a little funny but this is often missed by those who are not native english speakers (even the ameracans) (I am already ducking for more abuse)


Seriously

I do a lot of outdoor flash portraits

Some people dont do any at all

100 ISO minimum and 125th synch speed was FOR ME one of the worst cominations I ever found myself in

Consantly pushed to  diffraction small apertures (with grotesqe 'bokeh') and needing heaps of flash power at a shutter speed that isnt even 'safe' for longer than an 80

My experience was so bad for me that I sold the whole rig at a huge loss after just three months

I dont want you to sell your rig at a loss after three months - I want to help you get the right rig for you

So I want knocking the Aptus just the P30/Mam combo (for certain situations -mine)

I do think the sinar is better than the Aptus because you can change mounts - but the aptus is still I am sure a fantastic tool, as is the P30 and the mamiya too

I tend to guage most photographic equipment against my nikon FM2 - the camera I worked with for years

250/synch, lenses from 14-600, ISO from 25-3200, long exposures with no noise and great quality with a bit of slide film (not to mention no batteries and that fact that I could afford three - just dont mention the MD4 Motordrive - I hurled many into the hedge after missing shots)

I hit on most of the MF kit pretty hard because it is only just begining to equal my first rig that cost about $500

Good luck with your choice

S  

[Snook]

Hey Sam I was not knocking you in any way...:+}
Just Never heard anybody so Anti-Mamiya 645...:+}
I also do a lot of Portraits outside with Flash 2-3 stops over ambient.. Every day a little less as I have been doing that look for 15 years...:+}
I miss the Leafshutter lens also.. But that does not justify paying ALL the $$$ for hassleblad.. Sounds tempting to be able and sync as high as 1000/th with their electronic shutters..:+}
But not worth the $$$ in my opinion.
Thanks for information I really appreciate it.
I am just easing into MFDB as where I live, and most everywhere, the Client, Doesn't and won't see the difference, Unless I tell them...:+}
SO maybe in the future I will check out Hassleblad... But for the $$ I can get into MFDB with a Mamiya AFDII and a couple of GOOD lens for around 14,000 with the Back... Not bad in my opinion.
And I have the 1DsMII for all the other occasions..:+}
Thanks again and don't take everything so personal..:+}
Snook

[Snook]

Well if we can get some one to confirm that the Leaf shutter lens will work (manually) then that might help a bit...:+}
Hopefully someone will ring in here soon and confirm it or not..
Otherwise you will have to wait until I get back from New York next week to try it myself...:+]
Snook

[Snook]

I no it is not so practically, but why so difficult?
Is it the Mirror up problem?
Sorry but I do not understand completely.
I remember on the Protl you had to keep it at 1/8th or lower.
Why the mirror up on the AFDII?
And can the Mirror up be trigger from the body of the camera or is it done through the camera menu?
Can you describe it in more detail..
For what I am understanding is that you click the mirror up crank the Ring on the lens and then fire right?
I remember the Pentax 6X7 lens were  basically the same. You could just keep it at under an 1/8 and just crank.
What is the problem with the AFD that you need to put the mirror in lock up?
Does it not work by keep the camera at an 1/8 or 1/4 of a second?
Or is the way the camera lens fits the newer camera that you need to mirror up everytime?
Thanks for any further info.
John, How are you enjoying your Aptus 22?
Any doubts or Cons with it so far...? :+}
Thank you
Snook

[Morgan_Moore]

Just Never heard anybody so Anti-Mamiya 645

 Every day a little less as I have been doing that look for 15 years...:+}

[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=152370\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

No offence.

I'm only anti that camera for this (flash) scenario - the one I had never broke or locked up and the lenses seemed great

Ok I dont think the screen or AF is quite as good as the H but then for the money who cares.

BUT I am also against buying kit that is not exactly what you want just to save cash - my big lesson in this game is 'buy cheap buy twice' (which is more expensive in the long run)

When you spend this money all your camera dreams should be realised

Partly out of principal of the money spent should get you a great product and also because it IMO gives a big phsycological boost which helps ease the stress of shooting and results in better pics, cooler photographer on location happier clients and more money for the photographer in the long run

man - I hate shooting cross kit - a mix of D80, fast H1 good , SLRn wide  -and it hurts the shoulders


S

[Frank Doorhof]

25 ISO and outside flash is a wonderful combination, I use it all the time and indeed it solves the sync speed by a margin.
I still would love to use 1/500 of course but I also want a auto focus system which is handholdable.

I shoot EVERYTHING from the hand, instead long shuttertimes of course.

I find the Mamiya + leaf to be a VERY stable combination, I have shot photos with the 210mm as slow as 1/50 - 1/100 and get perfectly sharp shots.

[Snook]

Well Considering the Phase and Mamiya hook up, I just decided to go with the P30..
I appreciate all the help but hopefully Mamiya and Phase will have a great future.
Frank I saw some people posted on another thread that it is some how possible to use the leaf shutter lens on the AFD. I will let everyone know as soon as I get my AFDII this Next week after a trip to New York. Since no one seems to be interested but a small few... which I cannot believe, but seems so as no one could confirm it or not.
In any case I am hoping that the Mamiya with Phase will come up with either a new Body or some kind of new leaf shutter lens!!
Snook

[Frank Doorhof]

It would be fun to work with my jump photography outside on the other hand with the 25ISO setting I have just enough headroom speedwise.
So IF it works let me know.

[Snook]

I will tell you next week frank..:+}
Keeping my fingers crossed..  
Snook

[amsp]

I will tell you next week frank..:+}
Keeping my fingers crossed..  
Snook
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=152567\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

No need for finger crossing, it works like described. Just remember to set the camera to a slower speed than the lens.

[Snook]

What I do not understand is why the mirror Lock up? That makes no sense at all.

Are you sure that you just have to be under 1/8 of a second like the ProTL was?
if so I will be happy as hell to crank that baby after 6 years of sitting in the Closet of my stduio..  
Snook

[amsp]

What I do not understand is why the mirror Lock up? That makes no sense at all.

Are you sure that you just have to be under 1/8 of a second like the ProTL was?
if so I will be happy as hell to crank that baby after 6 years of sitting in the Closet of my stduio..  
Snook
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=152579\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Probably because there is no communication between the camera and lens.

[Snook]

your right that could make sense.. But I believe the only communication before was the Auto Cranking with the motor drive grip.
The leafshutter actually was fire by the Lens bar thingy?? from the connection to the camera and lens..
The other was just for Cranking the Leafshutter ..
I could be wrong but if you fire the leaafshutter with out the electric cord that attached to the lens and camera I believe it fire anyways just you have to crank it manually..
But again not sure but will post when I get my AFDII
Snook

[amsp]

your right that could make sense.. But I believe the only communication before was the Auto Cranking with the motor drive grip.
The leafshutter actually was fire by the Lens bar thingy?? from the connection to the camera and lens..
The other was just for Cranking the Leafshutter ..
I could be wrong but if you fire the leaafshutter with out the electric cord that attached to the lens and camera I believe it fire anyways just you have to crank it manually..
But again not sure but will post when I get my AFDII
Snook
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=152591\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I'm no camera engineer, so I don't really know why, I can only tell you what Mamiya told me.