My first month with the H6d-100c

[danord]

After having received my 100c mid-december and started to put it to use by now, I thought it could be of some interest to hear my impressions for those of you contemplating putting in an order or for those of you still waiting for your orders to be fulfilled.
First some background: I am a landscapephotographer and had my first meeting with Hasselblad/MF back in the '80s. Since turning digital in early 2000 I have worked with Nikon, latest years d800/d800e. 2-3 years ago I moved to the H5D-50, the CCD version due to sensor size. Now I'm no Hassy fanboy but I fell for the "feel" of the camera, the simplicity of the menues, the intuitive workflow and the lack of unecessary bells and whistles. And of course the lenses and the resulting files. When the 100c was announced last spring I put in my order april 12th. I knew it would be a long wait  (I waited 6 months for my d800) but was ok with my h5d/d800e/x-proII and was in no hurry. My main reason for upgrading was not resolution, I was very happy with the sharpness and feel of the CCD-files, but sensor size (which would render my lens-range wider and more fitting for my work) and CMOS with high ISO capabilities and live-view. I was a little worried about loosing the CCD smoothness which I found so much better than the sony CMOS files from my d800, but decided to take the leap.

Comming from H5d there is much to recognize, and love, with the H6d. I have always felt that ergonomics are top notch and felt very comfortable with the menu system and the assignable buttons on the grip. Basically, H6d is the same camera with some slight adjustments. My old H5d L-bracked fitted perfectly and I suspect the body is mostly unaltered. There seem so be some improved weather sealing with better seals around doors, but I still use my kata raincower in very wet conditions. The outline of the grips menu system is pretty much the same, but some functions are gone (profiles) and some are moved to the back. Comming from H5, it took less then a minute to be totally familiar with settings. The touchscreen works like a charm and is 100% intuitive. Menues are pretty basic but includes what you need. The electronic platform is 100% stable and I have not had a single issue at any time, even when working in temps down to -20deg c. Battery time is better than on the H5D CCD. I know CMOS use less energy, but live view takes it's tolls as well. But all in all, my batteries last longer on the H6d. I use the same 2900mA batteries as on my H5 in addition to the new 3200mA supplied with the camera. No significant difference between these. I have not shot thethered, but as of today, there is no power supply over the USB-port. I have not used video but it supports 4k raw.
As to lenses, I have used both HC and HCD's on the new, bigger, sensor. They all seem to resolve adequately. With HCD 28 there is some serious fall-off of light towards corners, I guess about 2-2.5 steps. This is corrected very nice in phocus and ok-ish in lightroom. Beware that if you need to lighten these areas much more (for some reason) there may be some color-noise. Extreme corner sharpness is ok but not excellent. Without filters, there is a very minimal cut-off of corners, with a slim filter some more, but still usable with only a minimal cropping. On a sensor this size, the 28 is very wide! The same vignetting goes for HCD 35-90 @35mm but to a lesser degree.

There is however, some room for improvement and this could, and should, be adressed in firmware updates shortly:
-the dual cards (SD and CFAST). You can choose which card to shoot to but the only other option is overflow. Thus, you do not have a backup function, which I consider the biggest advantage with dual cardslots. Cards will fail. Sooner or later.
-Assignable buttons. I miss having the possibility to assign the spirit level to some of the buttons on the grip. As of now, you must into the backs menu and open spirit level (you can make a short-cut to it on the backs front-page menu). This is cumbersome if you use the viewfinder. In live-view spirit-level is available as an overlay, but you must change to another overlay to focus check @100%. Other features function with assignable buttons as before, but spirit level should be featured as one function to assign.
-There is still no support for using the back on a tech cam.

I won't comment too much on the quality of the files, as that has been discussed elsewhere. Needless to say, they are beautiful with an amazing resolution and very impressive dynamic range. Noise is very well controlled. In a test, I made a 2-step underexposed shot of a star-lit landscape @ iso 6400 and pushed the file so it looked like it was shot in daylight. You can see the image here: https://500px.com/photo/190255227/frozen-by-dag-ole-nordhaug?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=2232775 . I would compare the result with a correctly exposed file @iso 3200 from my d800, which is quite impressive.
If you have any questions or want me to check something specific out, please feel free to comment!

Best regards,
Danord

www.nordhaugphotography.com

[Conner999]

Thanks very much.

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi Danord,

Thanks for sharing, much appreciated!

Best regards
Erik

After having received my 100c mid-december and started to put it to use by now, I thought it could be of some interest to hear my impressions for those of you contemplating putting in an order or for those of you still waiting for your orders to be fulfilled.
First some background: I am a landscapephotographer and had my first meeting with Hasselblad/MF back in the '80s. Since turning digital in early 2000 I have worked with Nikon, latest years d800/d800e. 2-3 years ago I moved to the H5D-50, the CCD version due to sensor size. Now I'm no Hassy fanboy but I fell for the "feel" of the camera, the simplicity of the menues, the intuitive workflow and the lack of unecessary bells and whistles. And of course the lenses and the resulting files. When the 100c was announced last spring I put in my order april 12th. I knew it would be a long wait  (I waited 6 months for my d800) but was ok with my h5d/d800e/x-proII and was in no hurry. My main reason for upgrading was not resolution, I was very happy with the sharpness and feel of the CCD-files, but sensor size (which would render my lens-range wider and more fitting for my work) and CMOS with high ISO capabilities and live-view. I was a little worried about loosing the CCD smoothness which I found so much better than the sony CMOS files from my d800, but decided to take the leap.

Comming from H5d there is much to recognize, and love, with the H6d. I have always felt that ergonomics are top notch and felt very comfortable with the menu system and the assignable buttons on the grip. Basically, H6d is the same camera with some slight adjustments. My old H5d L-bracked fitted perfectly and I suspect the body is mostly unaltered. There seem so be some improved weather sealing with better seals around doors, but I still use my kata raincower in very wet conditions. The outline of the grips menu system is pretty much the same, but some functions are gone (profiles) and some are moved to the back. Comming from H5, it took less then a minute to be totally familiar with settings. The touchscreen works like a charm and is 100% intuitive. Menues are pretty basic but includes what you need. The electronic platform is 100% stable and I have not had a single issue at any time, even when working in temps down to -20deg c. Battery time is better than on the H5D CCD. I know CMOS use less energy, but live view takes it's tolls as well. But all in all, my batteries last longer on the H6d. I use the same 2900mA batteries as on my H5 in addition to the new 3200mA supplied with the camera. No significant difference between these. I have not shot thethered, but as of today, there is no power supply over the USB-port. I have not used video but it supports 4k raw.
As to lenses, I have used both HC and HCD's on the new, bigger, sensor. They all seem to resolve adequately. With HCD 28 there is some serious fall-off of light towards corners, I guess about 2-2.5 steps. This is corrected very nice in phocus and ok-ish in lightroom. Beware that if you need to lighten these areas much more (for some reason) there may be some color-noise. Extreme corner sharpness is ok but not excellent. Without filters, there is a very minimal cut-off of corners, with a slim filter some more, but still usable with only a minimal cropping. On a sensor this size, the 28 is very wide! The same vignetting goes for HCD 35-90 @35mm but to a lesser degree.

There is however, some room for improvement and this could, and should, be adressed in firmware updates shortly:
-the dual cards (SD and CFAST). You can choose which card to shoot to but the only other option is overflow. Thus, you do not have a backup function, which I consider the biggest advantage with dual cardslots. Cards will fail. Sooner or later.
-Assignable buttons. I miss having the possibility to assign the spirit level to some of the buttons on the grip. As of now, you must into the backs menu and open spirit level (you can make a short-cut to it on the backs front-page menu). This is cumbersome if you use the viewfinder. In live-view spirit-level is available as an overlay, but you must change to another overlay to focus check @100%.
-There is still no support for using the back on a tech cam.

I won't comment too much on the quality of the files, as that has been discussed elsewhere. Needless to say, they are beautiful with an amazing resolution and very impressive dynamic range. Noise is very well controlled. In a test, I made a 2-step underexposed shot of a star-lit landscape @ iso 6400 and pushed the file so it looked like it was shot in daylight. You can see the image here: https://500px.com/photo/190255227/frozen-by-dag-ole-nordhaug?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=2232775 . I would compare the result with a correctly exposed file @iso 3200 from my d800, which is quite impressive.
If you have any questions or want me to check something specific out, please feel free to comment!

Best regards,
Danord

www.nordhaugphotography.com

[tcdeveau]

Thanks very much for sharing!  Is there any cropping that goes on with the HCD lenses?  I was under the impression this happened with the 60mp Hasselblads but wasn't sure how it was going to play out on the 100c.  How's corner sharpness with the 35-90mm?  Other than vignetting, any drawbacks I may not be aware of with the 35-90mm and 100c combo? 

[jamgolf]

Thanks for sharing your impressions.
Very helpful!

[danord]

Thanks very much for sharing!  Is there any cropping that goes on with the HCD lenses?  I was under the impression this happened with the 60mp Hasselblads but wasn't sure how it was going to play out on the 100c.  How's corner sharpness with the 35-90mm?  Other than vignetting, any drawbacks I may not be aware of with the 35-90mm and 100c combo?

Thank for reading! There is no automatic in-camera cropping of the files captured with HCD-lenses. In Phocus you can tick a box which automatically crops the HCD-captured images a little bit, no such function in Lightroom/Camera Raw/PS. However, after your question, I felt I needed to do some more formal testing other than regular field-work with filters etc. I set up my gear in front of one of my book-walls and did today. As much as I dislike beeing labelled a Hasselblad fanboy, I must say that I am impressed. I did some test-shots without filters on different apertures with HCD 28 and HCD 35-90 at 35, 50 and 70mm. Here's the short take-home message:
-There is no total cutting of the edges/corners with any of the HCD-lenses at any aperture or at any focal length for the 35-90 when you don't use filters.
-There is however significant fall-off of light on both lenses. I would say about 1,5 steps in corners up to 2,5 steps in extreme corners. The fall-off is well distributed and very well corrected in Lightroom and Phocus. For corners it is totally acceptable, but for the very-very extreme corners I would say a tiny, tiny bit is unusable if it was the main subject matter and you wanted it exactly as bright as the middle. For e.g. my landscape-work it is totally not an issue, but I guess for repro-work and such it could represent a problem. In such instances you should make room for a few pixels cropping of the very extreme corners. I find this phenomenon in the extreme corners to be a little more pronounced with the 35-90 at both 35 and 50mm (gone by 70mm) compared to the 28. A bit surprising. Also, this phenomenon is only to a minimal degree dependent on aperture, I tested from wide open to f 16 and found the zoom at 35 and 50 to be the same through f11 before improving slightly, while some improvement of the 28 came at around f8. I guess this makes a statement about the base-quality if these lenses.
-Regarding sharpness. I find corner-sharpness to be very good, as I previously have found with my smaller H5D-50 ccd sensor. I knew my zoom had some slight issues in the upper left corner wide open at 35 mm, but it's not camera dependent. I would say that both lenses perform just as good on the H6d-100c as on the H5d-50ccd regarding corner sharpness.
-When using a slim polarizer there is a very tiny total cutting of the extreme corners on both lenses (35-90 at 35 only), corresponding to the area with the worse fall of of light mentioned above. These files may need a few pixels cropping.
I find absolutely no other issues with the 100c- 35-90 combo. I would not hesitate to use this as a main go-to setup, even if my income depended on it.
-With HC lenses (I've briefly tested my 35 and 50) there is a lesser issue with ligth fall-off and absolutely no problem in extreme corners, as expected. Filters no problem.
I should have posted some images, but I dont have the time right now. Will see if I find time to a more formal review with images to post on my blog sometime during next week. If so, I will drop a message here.
Cheers!

danord

[Bo_Dez]

Thanks, a good read and very impressive picture!

I agree about the reason for the larger sensor being what is most attractive about the 100mp backs. If there was a full frame 50-60MP CMOS I would probably be happy.

[Hans Kruse]

After having received my 100c mid-december and started to put it to use by now, I thought it could be of some interest to hear my impressions for those of you contemplating putting in an order or for those of you still waiting for your orders to be fulfilled.
First some background: I am a landscapephotographer and had my first meeting with Hasselblad/MF back in the '80s. Since turning digital in early 2000 I have worked with Nikon, latest years d800/d800e. 2-3 years ago I moved to the H5D-50, the CCD version due to sensor size. Now I'm no Hassy fanboy but I fell for the "feel" of the camera, the simplicity of the menues, the intuitive workflow and the lack of unecessary bells and whistles. And of course the lenses and the resulting files. When the 100c was announced last spring I put in my order april 12th. I knew it would be a long wait  (I waited 6 months for my d800) but was ok with my h5d/d800e/x-proII and was in no hurry. My main reason for upgrading was not resolution, I was very happy with the sharpness and feel of the CCD-files, but sensor size (which would render my lens-range wider and more fitting for my work) and CMOS with high ISO capabilities and live-view. I was a little worried about loosing the CCD smoothness which I found so much better than the sony CMOS files from my d800, but decided to take the leap.

Comming from H5d there is much to recognize, and love, with the H6d. I have always felt that ergonomics are top notch and felt very comfortable with the menu system and the assignable buttons on the grip. Basically, H6d is the same camera with some slight adjustments. My old H5d L-bracked fitted perfectly and I suspect the body is mostly unaltered. There seem so be some improved weather sealing with better seals around doors, but I still use my kata raincower in very wet conditions. The outline of the grips menu system is pretty much the same, but some functions are gone (profiles) and some are moved to the back. Comming from H5, it took less then a minute to be totally familiar with settings. The touchscreen works like a charm and is 100% intuitive. Menues are pretty basic but includes what you need. The electronic platform is 100% stable and I have not had a single issue at any time, even when working in temps down to -20deg c. Battery time is better than on the H5D CCD. I know CMOS use less energy, but live view takes it's tolls as well. But all in all, my batteries last longer on the H6d. I use the same 2900mA batteries as on my H5 in addition to the new 3200mA supplied with the camera. No significant difference between these. I have not shot thethered, but as of today, there is no power supply over the USB-port. I have not used video but it supports 4k raw.
As to lenses, I have used both HC and HCD's on the new, bigger, sensor. They all seem to resolve adequately. With HCD 28 there is some serious fall-off of light towards corners, I guess about 2-2.5 steps. This is corrected very nice in phocus and ok-ish in lightroom. Beware that if you need to lighten these areas much more (for some reason) there may be some color-noise. Extreme corner sharpness is ok but not excellent. Without filters, there is a very minimal cut-off of corners, with a slim filter some more, but still usable with only a minimal cropping. On a sensor this size, the 28 is very wide! The same vignetting goes for HCD 35-90 @35mm but to a lesser degree.

There is however, some room for improvement and this could, and should, be adressed in firmware updates shortly:
-the dual cards (SD and CFAST). You can choose which card to shoot to but the only other option is overflow. Thus, you do not have a backup function, which I consider the biggest advantage with dual cardslots. Cards will fail. Sooner or later.
-Assignable buttons. I miss having the possibility to assign the spirit level to some of the buttons on the grip. As of now, you must into the backs menu and open spirit level (you can make a short-cut to it on the backs front-page menu). This is cumbersome if you use the viewfinder. In live-view spirit-level is available as an overlay, but you must change to another overlay to focus check @100%. Other features function with assignable buttons as before, but spirit level should be featured as one function to assign.
-There is still no support for using the back on a tech cam.

I won't comment too much on the quality of the files, as that has been discussed elsewhere. Needless to say, they are beautiful with an amazing resolution and very impressive dynamic range. Noise is very well controlled. In a test, I made a 2-step underexposed shot of a star-lit landscape @ iso 6400 and pushed the file so it looked like it was shot in daylight. You can see the image here: https://500px.com/photo/190255227/frozen-by-dag-ole-nordhaug?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=2232775 . I would compare the result with a correctly exposed file @iso 3200 from my d800, which is quite impressive.
If you have any questions or want me to check something specific out, please feel free to comment!

Best regards,
Danord

www.nordhaugphotography.com

Although I'm not in the market for a MF camera, it was interesting to read your views on this camera. Also I really liked your portfolio which I had not seen before

[Joe Towner]

There is a lot to love about the -100c, and the files it produces.  The biggest issue for me was the size of the af area, it will happily grab behind the subject and unless you check each shot, it's hard to tell.  But it's worth it, for all the right reasons.

Here's the Western Conference trophy lift for Sounders FC.  I wish I had the time to go to Toronto for MLS Cup, but work is a 4 letter word.

[J_M]

Hi Danord,

thanks for the great post.

Unfortunately I’ve had the opposite of your experiences with the camera.

I just picked up my THIRD new h6d100c body today.
All previously delivered bodies weren’t working properly. This has been going on since October. The first was shipped with the wrong firmware and, after getting that fixed, would just lock up after three or so exposures. The second made strange high-pitched noises when writing to the card, would routinely lose files (WTF?!?), and kept adding some strange black lines to some but not all of the exposures. Thankfully my dealer took care of me and arranged for a third new body to be delivered.

I really want to love this camera and am crossing my fingers that the third time is the charm. I’ll post back after I’ve done some photo and video testing.

For those of you interested in how the camera does when filming:
– H.264 is dog food on the 35mm HC. The compression is simply too much. Haven’t had a chance to try other lenses because of the previously mentioned issues.
– Shooting 4k RAW is awesome!!! Just be prepared to deal with a lot of data.


Best,

J_M

[danord]

Hi Danord,

thanks for the great post.

Unfortunately I’ve had the opposite of your experiences with the camera.

I just picked up my THIRD new h6d100c body today.
All previously delivered bodies weren’t working properly. This has been going on since October. The first was shipped with the wrong firmware and, after getting that fixed, would just lock up after three or so exposures. The second made strange high-pitched noises when writing to the card, would routinely lose files (WTF?!?), and kept adding some strange black lines to some but not all of the exposures. Thankfully my dealer took care of me and arranged for a third new body to be delivered.

I really want to love this camera and am crossing my fingers that the third time is the charm. I’ll post back after I’ve done some photo and video testing.

For those of you interested in how the camera does when filming:
– H.264 is dog food on the 35mm HC. The compression is simply too much. Haven’t had a chance to try other lenses because of the previously mentioned issues.
– Shooting 4k RAW is awesome!!! Just be prepared to deal with a lot of data.


Best,

J_M

Oh my, you have been really unlucky! The comfort is that you hopefully have used up all your misfortune in life for the next years to come;).
Hope Hasselblad and your dealer put in some sweat to recify everything and that the third sample works without flaws! Your are in for a treat It's easy to love that camera!  I wasn't in a hurry to get mine, and actually told my dealer so, as I've had issues with very early samples from other manufacturers perviously. Sometimes waiting out until the early errors have been picked out has some advantages I guess (although it really shouldn't be that way!)

Now, I haven't done any video with the H6d at all (my iphone takes care of that...), but I was pleasantly surprised by the HC35 for stills. It hasn't been my favourite lens before, but as of now it has put in some pretty good arguments for working it's way back into my field-bag. Maybe it just didn't work very well with my previous H5D for some reason, but i find edge-sharpness to be very good on my H6D (central  sharpness was always ok with my sample) and there is of course much less vignetting compared to the HCD28 and the 35-90 (see above). Also, on the new, bigger sensor, it is of course somewhat wider. Calculations (somewhat misleading due to different aspect-ratio) and real life experience suggest that it corresponds more towards working with something like a 21mm in 35mm-terms than a 24 on my old H5D-50CCD. And that is my sweet-spot for really wide-angle work. The 28mm turned out to be very very wide on the 100c! And I'm just glad to have expanded my wide-angle options!
All the best with your third sample!

danord

[cerett]

After having received my 100c mid-december and started to put it to use by now, I thought it could be of some interest to hear my impressions for those of you contemplating putting in an order or for those of you still waiting for your orders to be fulfilled.
First some background: I am a landscapephotographer and had my first meeting with Hasselblad/MF back in the '80s. Since turning digital in early 2000 I have worked with Nikon, latest years d800/d800e. 2-3 years ago I moved to the H5D-50, the CCD version due to sensor size. Now I'm no Hassy fanboy but I fell for the "feel" of the camera, the simplicity of the menues, the intuitive workflow and the lack of unecessary bells and whistles. And of course the lenses and the resulting files. When the 100c was announced last spring I put in my order april 12th. I knew it would be a long wait  (I waited 6 months for my d800) but was ok with my h5d/d800e/x-proII and was in no hurry. My main reason for upgrading was not resolution, I was very happy with the sharpness and feel of the CCD-files, but sensor size (which would render my lens-range wider and more fitting for my work) and CMOS with high ISO capabilities and live-view. I was a little worried about loosing the CCD smoothness which I found so much better than the sony CMOS files from my d800, but decided to take the leap.

Comming from H5d there is much to recognize, and love, with the H6d. I have always felt that ergonomics are top notch and felt very comfortable with the menu system and the assignable buttons on the grip. Basically, H6d is the same camera with some slight adjustments. My old H5d L-bracked fitted perfectly and I suspect the body is mostly unaltered. There seem so be some improved weather sealing with better seals around doors, but I still use my kata raincower in very wet conditions. The outline of the grips menu system is pretty much the same, but some functions are gone (profiles) and some are moved to the back. Comming from H5, it took less then a minute to be totally familiar with settings. The touchscreen works like a charm and is 100% intuitive. Menues are pretty basic but includes what you need. The electronic platform is 100% stable and I have not had a single issue at any time, even when working in temps down to -20deg c. Battery time is better than on the H5D CCD. I know CMOS use less energy, but live view takes it's tolls as well. But all in all, my batteries last longer on the H6d. I use the same 2900mA batteries as on my H5 in addition to the new 3200mA supplied with the camera. No significant difference between these. I have not shot thethered, but as of today, there is no power supply over the USB-port. I have not used video but it supports 4k raw.
As to lenses, I have used both HC and HCD's on the new, bigger, sensor. They all seem to resolve adequately. With HCD 28 there is some serious fall-off of light towards corners, I guess about 2-2.5 steps. This is corrected very nice in phocus and ok-ish in lightroom. Beware that if you need to lighten these areas much more (for some reason) there may be some color-noise. Extreme corner sharpness is ok but not excellent. Without filters, there is a very minimal cut-off of corners, with a slim filter some more, but still usable with only a minimal cropping. On a sensor this size, the 28 is very wide! The same vignetting goes for HCD 35-90 @35mm but to a lesser degree.

There is however, some room for improvement and this could, and should, be adressed in firmware updates shortly:
-the dual cards (SD and CFAST). You can choose which card to shoot to but the only other option is overflow. Thus, you do not have a backup function, which I consider the biggest advantage with dual cardslots. Cards will fail. Sooner or later.
-Assignable buttons. I miss having the possibility to assign the spirit level to some of the buttons on the grip. As of now, you must into the backs menu and open spirit level (you can make a short-cut to it on the backs front-page menu). This is cumbersome if you use the viewfinder. In live-view spirit-level is available as an overlay, but you must change to another overlay to focus check @100%. Other features function with assignable buttons as before, but spirit level should be featured as one function to assign.
-There is still no support for using the back on a tech cam.

I won't comment too much on the quality of the files, as that has been discussed elsewhere. Needless to say, they are beautiful with an amazing resolution and very impressive dynamic range. Noise is very well controlled. In a test, I made a 2-step underexposed shot of a star-lit landscape @ iso 6400 and pushed the file so it looked like it was shot in daylight. You can see the image here: https://500px.com/photo/190255227/frozen-by-dag-ole-nordhaug?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=2232775 . I would compare the result with a correctly exposed file @iso 3200 from my d800, which is quite impressive.
If you have any questions or want me to check something specific out, please feel free to comment!

Best regards,
Danord

www.nordhaugphotography.com

Danord - Thank you very much for your detailed thoughts. I am still waiting for my 100c. I currently have the H6D-50c. Can you provide some examples of the vignetting you're seeing with the 28 and 35-90 HCD lenses? I own both lenses and often use a filter holder (Lee 100 and 150 systems) for long exposure work. I am curious to know just how much of a problem this might be. BTW, just visited your website. Congratulations on a beautiful collection of images!

[danord]

Danord - Thank you very much for your detailed thoughts. I am still waiting for my 100c. I currently have the H6D-50c. Can you provide some examples of the vignetting you're seeing with the 28 and 35-90 HCD lenses? I own both lenses and often use a filter holder (Lee 100 and 150 systems) for long exposure work. I am curious to know just how much of a problem this might be. BTW, just visited your website. Congratulations on a beautiful collection of images!

Thank you very much, cerett!
I will try to capture some representative images (the famous brick-wall and the likes.. ) soon. This week is kind of busy, but hopefully I'll have time before the weekend. I have the Lee 100mm push-on-holder and will also try to include images captured with that one pushed onto a 95mm uv filter and some images with a slim polarizer too. I'll probably post them on my blog, but I'll be sure to put a link in this tread as soon as it's done.

For now, let me put it this way: I would not hesitate to bring only the 28 and the 35-90 on one of my extended hikes and base my work on these lenses only if I didn't need other focal lengths. With software vignette correction and only a very minimal cropping, results are exellent. If I planned to extensively use filters- I'm not sure. Have to take a deeper dive in to that first. 

I'll let you know when I have som proper examples to post.

danord

[BAB]

The Hietec filters 150 mm 15 stop on the 28 mm is flawless, the tightness of glass filter in the holder is a pain. Shot with a polo and 15 stop a seascape and image was great even though slightly under exposed. Hard to get the time right when cloudy, plus I find the app I use for long time calculations to error on the underexposed side by about a minute with the H6D-100 and the 50ii.


Yes your right the 28 does seem wider? Are there any official numbers out with the 100 mp back and different lens combinations?


My camera has only locked up once in two months did a battery reset and all was good.


AF shooting the other day with the 50ii and 1.7x is good but not excellent, it doesn't seem to like 1/400 and me moving (quickly) while shooting. Focus was ok but out of 60 images maybe only 30 were very good and maybe only 10 were ex ex. Next time I'm going to shoot at 1/500 or higher!

[danord]

The Hietec filters 150 mm 15 stop on the 28 mm is flawless, the tightness of glass filter in the holder is a pain. Shot with a polo and 15 stop a seascape and image was great even though slightly under exposed. Hard to get the time right when cloudy, plus I find the app I use for long time calculations to error on the underexposed side by about a minute with the H6D-100 and the 50ii.


Yes your right the 28 does seem wider? Are there any official numbers out with the 100 mp back and different lens combinations?


My camera has only locked up once in two months did a battery reset and all was good.


AF shooting the other day with the 50ii and 1.7x is good but not excellent, it doesn't seem to like 1/400 and me moving (quickly) while shooting. Focus was ok but out of 60 images maybe only 30 were very good and maybe only 10 were ex ex. Next time I'm going to shoot at 1/500 or higher!

Thanks for your insight, Bab!

What filter holder-system do you use with the 150mm filters? Lee SW 150?
Regarding exposure with very dense ND-grads, I have found that 10 stops often means ca. 9-11 stops and 15 means 14-16 or something like that. I guess making exact density in this magnitude is difficult to calculate exactly. My big stopper is e.g. more like 11 stops.

I have not seen any official (or unofficial) tables to relate different MF focal lengths to e.g. 35mm. Direct comparison is difficult because of e.g different crop ratios (4:3 vs 3:2 etc) etc as mentioned. And certain qualities (e.g. corner distortion etc) are not directly transferrable. A 28mm is a 28mm independent of sensor size, but one may get an idea of the similar angle by comparing the diagonal length of different sensors. By calculating the diagonals of 35mm and 100c I come up with a ratio of about 0.63. That would imply that the 28 have a widness comparable to a 17-18mm on a 35mm system and the 35mm would correspond to about 21-22mm.

Regarding hand-held and autofocus, I'm glad to see that it somehow works for you! But I could definitely see the resolution and weight of the system posing some challenges.   I only work with landscapes, so I haven't tried without a tripod and I havent shot handheld. Manual focus With the focus check on live-view from a tripod is my best friend

All the best,

danord

[Stephen Scharf]

There is a lot to love about the -100c, and the files it produces.  The biggest issue for me was the size of the af area, it will happily grab behind the subject and unless you check each shot, it's hard to tell.  But it's worth it, for all the right reasons.

Here's the Western Conference trophy lift for Sounders FC.  I wish I had the time to go to Toronto for MLS Cup, but work is a 4 letter word.

Hi Joe,
Is this an image that is SOOC? There is a notable greenish color cast to this image.

[cerett]

Thanks for your insight, Bab!

What filter holder-system do you use with the 150mm filters? Lee SW 150?
Regarding exposure with very dense ND-grads, I have found that 10 stops often means ca. 9-11 stops and 15 means 14-16 or something like that. I guess making exact density in this magnitude is difficult to calculate exactly. My big stopper is e.g. more like 11 stops.

I have not seen any official (or unofficial) tables to relate different MF focal lengths to e.g. 35mm. Direct comparison is difficult because of e.g different crop ratios (4:3 vs 3:2 etc) etc as mentioned. And certain qualities (e.g. corner distortion etc) are not directly transferrable. A 28mm is a 28mm independent of sensor size, but one may get an idea of the similar angle by comparing the diagonal length of different sensors. By calculating the diagonals of 35mm and 100c I come up with a ratio of about 0.63. That would imply that the 28 have a widness comparable to a 17-18mm on a 35mm system and the 35mm would correspond to about 21-22mm.

Regarding hand-held and autofocus, I'm glad to see that it somehow works for you! But I could definitely see the resolution and weight of the system posing some challenges.   I only work with landscapes, so I haven't tried without a tripod and I havent shot handheld. Manual focus With the focus check on live-view from a tripod is my best friend

All the best,

danord

Hi - I use the NEW Lee SW 150 system and firecrest ND filters. They do make a very nice 95mm adapter ring. Works great with the H6D-50c and the 28mm lens and there is much less color cast than with the Lee filters.

[BAB]

I'm using Hitech 95 mm aluminum 150 filter holder with the newest 150mm 15 stop nano ir and the 10 stop. I also have a 150mm graduated ND .6 that I've used in combination. No light leaks so far. I did get the red shadow shooting into the sun on one image but I'm sure I didn't have the filter in quite correctly. I now mount the 15 stop off camera the holder is so Fricking tight.


Manual focus with LV is great, it would be even better if the screen articulated. I used LV to check close mid and far focus with my HTS mounted it works although the wedge of focus dint extend as high as I thought. So the sand on the beach the rocks near and far perfect focus but the middle rock in between the water and near rock was about 12 foot high and the top 1-2 feet was not in focus strange.
We need must have focus distance digital read out by meters in camera that would make checking focus with LV very accurate.


As for the run and gun shooting I'm going to try again weather permitting this Saturday and see if I can hold it.
Field of view I noticed some corrections that are needed in the images not sure phocus has it down yet but they straighten right out in LR.


Thanks

[danord]

My apologies for the delay, it's been a busy few days, but I have now made a some test-images to show the vignetting and sharpness when using HCD-lenses on the H6D-100c. You may find the images with captions here:

https://nordhaugphotography.wordpress.com/

danord

[BernardLanguillier]

My apologies for the delay, it's been a busy few days, but I have now made a some test-images to show the vignetting and sharpness when using HCD-lenses on the H6D-100c. You may find the images with captions here:

https://nordhaugphotography.wordpress.com/

Thanks for sharing, I should be able to perform the same test in a few days, at least with the 28mm.

Cheers,
Bernard