HELP on Eye One V3.6

[shutter2]

I hope one of you expierienced users can shed some light on this for me.
I have a new Dell LCD 1704FPT monitor - Radeon x600 and a new GM Eye One Display.
I have been following the thread on the settings and Andrew Rodney's (as always) informative replies.

I set the Match 3.6 software to Native White Point and Gamma to Native and the Luminance to the target of 120. This gave me the following results much like "sqwrx" submitted:

Set to the Matrix option.
Temp - Native
Current - 6200K

Gamma - Native
Current ---

Luminance:
Target - 120
Current - 198.8
Min - 0.4

It is the luminous reading that concerns me. No backlight control so I assume I have to live with that reading.  I set contrast to 100% and Brightness to 0 on the OSD. The video card I have left alone at the default settings. (I am going to order a Solux lamp so my ambient will improve.)

I just need one of you experienced people to give the nod that my assumption is correct regarding the luminence.

Also, and I cannot find much info on this although it was mentioned in the thread. Is it better to use the Matrix setting or the "Large LUT"?

I would very much appreciate any comments just to ascertain if I am on the right track here.

IMHO GM should producing a much better manual and upgrade it when they issue a new version - I have seen other comments on this so know I am not the only one with this opinion.

Thanks,
Ed

[61Dynamic]

You have just run into the main issue with using Dell displays. They are very bright.

You shouldn't set anything in the OSD aside from the brightness. Any adjustments will alter the LUTs and degrade the image on screen. The brightness adjustment is the only analog control you can calibrate.

[shutter2]

You have just run into the main issue with using Dell displays. They are very bright.

You shouldn't set anything in the OSD aside from the brightness. Any adjustments will alter the LUTs and degrade the image on screen. The brightness adjustment is the only analog control you can calibrate.
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I did set the contrast to 100% in the OSD as per instructions. I agree brightness is a problem with the Dell monitors. I wish now I had done a little more research. Some of the models must have a backlight control as I have seen other examples of the luminance target been achieved. It is an ultrasharp and other than this problem it is excellent. I think achieving good ambient lighting will help.

I am still concerned which option to choose - the Matrix or LUT - I think Andrew Rodney commented that the LUT was a better choice.

Thanks for your advice.
Ed

[David White]

I am still concerned which option to choose - the Matrix or LUT - I think Andrew Rodney commented that the LUT was a better choice.

Thanks for your advice.
Ed
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=61308\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

In regards to similiar question on another forum, Andrew said that in theory LUT should be a better choice but that it was still best to test both.  I use the V4 profiles with a LUT and it is dead on with my monitor.

-Dave White

[61Dynamic]

I did set the contrast to 100% in the OSD as per instructions. I agree brightness is a problem with the Dell monitors. I wish now I had done a little more research. Some of the models must have a backlight control as I have seen other examples of the luminance target been achieved. It is an ultrasharp and other than this problem it is excellent. I think achieving good ambient lighting will help.

I am still concerned which option to choose - the Matrix or LUT - I think Andrew Rodney commented that the LUT was a better choice.

Thanks for your advice.
Ed
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=61308\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Even if it is instructing you to adjust contrast and giving you the option to do so, you should not. When you do so, you are reducing the number of tonal values the display will have to render an image. The contrast setting is altering the 8-bit/channel image that is being sent to the display.

As I just said, the brightness adjustment is the only analogue adjustment you can make on a LCD. It is adjusting the backlight luminance.

[elliot_n]

I wouldn't worry too much about the brightness.

I run my 20" Apple Cinema Display at maximum brightness (about 220 cd/m2), calibrated with the EyeOne Display2. I get a good screen-to-print match with my Epson 2400.

During the day I can open the blinds and carry on working.

At night I use a single Solux lamp, about 1 metre from my prints, and the brightness matches my monitor.

[shutter2]

Even if it is instructing you to adjust contrast and giving you the option to do so, you should not. When you do so, you are reducing the number of tonal values the display will have to render an image. The contrast setting is altering the 8-bit/channel image that is being sent to the display.

As I just said, the brightness adjustment is the only analogue adjustment you can make on a LCD. It is adjusting the backlight luminance.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=61313\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Excellent advice. This is exactly the kind of direction I need. I have profiled CRT's but the LCD is certainly a new learning curve. I will set all back to default and follow the advice here.
Thanks - much appreciated.

[sgwrx]

i found out that the software will always read dead-on on the little green-scale thingy for contrast. i read somewhere that it will always read that. i ran through a few calibration attempts and each time set a different contrast, one extremely low (40ish on 1-100 scale), one medium 60ish, one at 100 or max. each time that scale thing showed dead-on contrast.

i think the point is that you can set your contrast to whatever you want and it always uses that as a starting point to profile from.  i never got really good results with those extremes and ended up leaving the contrast at the monitor's default of 70.  brightness was also default at 50.  i used the backlight adjustment to bring the luminance to target in the software - i currently have backlight set at 48 (default is 50).

even at this 70 setting, its still very bright but i'm used to it now even with lower room lighting 12-20 lux (only one of my 3 lights on). with all three on i get the 63/64 lux as shown in my other thread - easier on the eyes.

[shutter2]

i found out that the software will always read dead-on on the little green-scale thingy for contrast. i read somewhere that it will always read that. i ran through a few calibration attempts and each time set a different contrast, one extremely low (40ish on 1-100 scale), one medium 60ish, one at 100 or max. each time that scale thing showed dead-on contrast.

i think the point is that you can set your contrast to whatever you want and it always uses that as a starting point to profile from.  i never got really good results with those extremes and ended up leaving the contrast at the monitor's default of 70.  brightness was also default at 50.  i used the backlight adjustment to bring the luminance to target in the software - i currently have backlight set at 48 (default is 50).

even at this 70 setting, its still very bright but i'm used to it now even with lower room lighting 12-20 lux (only one of my 3 lights on). with all three on i get the 63/64 lux as shown in my other thread - easier on the eyes.
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Your are correct - I noticed that the scale did not move. What I have done is left the contrast at the default of 50 and moved only the brightness to also 50. The result is I am getting a temp of 7700K. I do not how serious this is but I will try some printer test files to see the result. I also used the LUT - Large setting and all else "native." Unfortunately I have no seperate backlight adjustment so may have to mess about moving my Solux.

[elliot_n]

7700K is very cool (blue). Not a problem in itself, but if you're hoping to have the Solux close to the monitor, providing a pool of light to compare prints to screen, then you will find there's a big mismatch in colour temperatures. To work like this you'll need to calibrate to 5000K - you'll get a better screen-to-print match, but increased posterization on the monitor.

[61Dynamic]

I wouldn't worry too much about the brightness.

I run my 20" Apple Cinema Display at maximum brightness (about 220 cd/m2), calibrated with the EyeOne Display2. I get a good screen-to-print match with my Epson 2400.

During the day I can open the blinds and carry on working.

At night I use a single Solux lamp, about 1 metre from my prints, and the brightness matches my monitor.

The problem with that is you are introducing a greater chance of glare having a negative effect on the display. With too much ambient light, blacks can get washed out. While your system may work well enough for your needs, a monitor and ambient light at the proper luminance will net you better results overall.

7700K is very cool (blue). Not a problem in itself, but if you're hoping to have the Solux close to the monitor, providing a pool of light to compare prints to screen, then you will find there's a big mismatch in colour temperatures. To work like this you'll need to calibrate to 5000K - you'll get a better screen-to-print match, but increased posterization on the monitor.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=61354\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

It may make sense to calibrate at 5000K since the ambient light is also 5000K (or close to) but the display and the print are inherently different mediums. The display being a light-emmitting device will render the image more accurately when set to 6500K. At 5000K the display is dimmer and too yellow. Your eyes will automatically adapt between the Kelvin difference when looking from one to another.

The result is I am getting a temp of 7700K. I do not how serious this is but I will try some printer test files to see the result. I also used the LUT - Large setting and all else "native." Unfortunately I have no seperate backlight adjustment so may have to mess about moving my Solux.

That temp reading is from the default color settings of the display? If so, then I'd recommend what Bruce Frasure states in Real World Color Management to set the EyeOne software to 6500K and let it build a profile to compensate. The profile will degrade slightly but that will be a smaller issue than having a display render everything much too cool. My Apple display runs at 7000K and I calibrate it to 6500K with no problem. There is an ever so slight and faint green cast in the shadows of an image but it is within a very small tonal range and since I know of it, I can easily work around it.

Your backlight adjustment is the brightness control in the OSD.

[shutter2]

It may make sense to calibrate at 5000K since the ambient light is also 5000K (or close to) but the display and the print are inherently different mediums. The display being a light-emmitting device will render the image more accurately when set to 6500K. At 5000K the display is dimmer and too yellow. Your eyes will automatically adapt between the Kelvin difference when looking from one to another.

The result is I am getting a temp of 7700K. I do not how serious this is but I will try some printer test files to see the result. I also used the LUT - Large setting and all else "native." Unfortunately I have no seperate backlight adjustment so may have to mess about moving my Solux.

That temp reading is from the default color settings of the display? If so, then I'd recommend what Bruce Frasure states in Real World Color Management to set the EyeOne software to 6500K and let it build a profile to compensate. The profile will degrade slightly but that will be a smaller issue than having a display render everything much too cool. My Apple display runs at 7000K and I calibrate it to 6500K with no problem. There is an ever so slight and faint green cast in the shadows of an image but it is within a very small tonal range and since I know of it, I can easily work around it.

Your backlight adjustment is the brightness control in the OSD.
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Thanks Daniel. I am feeling like this is between a rock and hard place. 7700K (I assume this is the default setting as I was using native gamma and temp.)  is far too cool for accurate print proofing. On one hand I do not want to disregard Andrew Rodney's advice on the native settings, but it looks like I will have to use a setting of 6500K and play with the Brightness control and let it build a compensating profile. Hopefully the banding will not be too severe and any other effect as you say I can work around.
Thanks for your input.