Opinions on my first studio light set-up

[dwdallam]

Well, after a fairly convoluted question here about two weeks ago on studio lights, and not getting any responses, I decided to just do all of the reasearch I could. After many hours of  research, here is what I decided upon for my first studio set. I really hope I didn't blow it. However, I'm just now mailing the check, so I could call them to amend or cancel it. Anyway, let's hear the good and the bad . . .

I bought the Alien Bees (alienbees.com). I don't want to hear anything about the color. I like it

3 B800 AlienBees B800-Martian Pink $279.95 ea

1 LB11    Boom Arm Attachment with 11-pound Counterweight   $89.95    ea.    

1 LS1100 Backlight Stand $24.95 ea.    

1 LS3050 10-foot General Purpose Stand    $39.95    ea.    

1 LS3900 13-foot Heavy Duty Stand $69.95 ea.    

1 U48SW 48” Silver/White Umbrella $29.95 ea.    

1 U48TWB 48” Shoot-Thru Umbrella $29.95 ea.    

1 FT10MM 10mm Flashtube $25.95 ea. (spare)
 
Total:   $1163. Includes shipping.    

My partial thinking on this was that I can make cheap PVC reflector stands, and I have already made a pretty nice 7.5 foot tall by 7 feet wide back drop from 1 1/4 PVC pipe. I have replacement uprights and horizontals so I can quickly change width and hieght quickly.   I have a small 2 bedroom house, so this has to be constructed impromptu in my small living room. When I actaully get teh equipment set up, I'll post a picture of the set up.

There is actaully another forum that has a thread where everyone was posting their home studio, or professional studio pictures. This is what made it interesting: The first couple of shots were of the actual studio all set up, and then a few of the results. One of the best was a studio with a one light set up and refelctors. The guy was a college student, and he lives in this really tiny place. But his stuff was very good.  Another guy had this set up that looked like it was about 4x 4 feet in space, but he had a customer in it doing portrature. His results were good too. It's interesting to see what people come up with to save money and space, and tehn see these nice results. I may start a thread here if that sounds interesting. Or one of you can.

[boku]

I'd only change two things...

1) Obviously, the PINK!    

2) Get the set of honeycomb grids that snap in the reflector. You will need them to concentrated the hairlight on the boom.

As you go on, you might consider the shovel hood for the backlight, lightbox(es), and the wired remote. I have these items and find them useful.

[larkvi]

There is actaully another forum that has a thread where everyone was posting their home studio, or professional studio pictures. This is what made it interesting: The first couple of shots were of the actual studio all set up, and then a few of the results. &c
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=53110\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Could you post a link to this other thread?

[jimhuber]

Get a copy of the book "Light Science and Magic" by Fil Hunter and Paul Fuqua, ISBN 0240802756, published in 1997 by Focal Press.

[dwdallam]

Thanks for the replies.

I bought as little as I could think of to buy, and still function.

I figured I could use a rolled up peice of poster board and tape it together for a snoot for now. If I need to difuse the light for hair, I'll tape on some T-shirt material. Those Alien Bees honey combs are expensive.

Yes, I would rather have had the softboxes, but that's stiff at 100.00 for the small one each. Again, I did want SBs, but cost prohibitive for me right now. The shovel is nice too, same problem--money!

I'll check out that book too. Thanks for that tip.

OK here is the link to the forum with the studios posted:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/144181/0

Here is a link with lots of good information:
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php

[boku]

dwdallam,

I think you should be very careful with your t-shirt idea. I would be afraid of a fire from the modeling lights. I use 150 watt (a recommended self-installed option) - I would never cover them with cloth.

The grids are not really diffusers. They control the throw of the light in a very useful manner. Diffusion would allow objectional spill for the hair light. The object is to paint the hair with light, not the shoulders. Also, the grids still allow some specular quality to the light, thus more appealing hair rendering (in my opnion). This is really a classic studio lighting technique. A snoot does the same thing, but only has one tight throw angle - I find the set of 4 snap-in grids much more versitile. I use them for a lot of other light control purposes.

I figured I could use a rolled up peice of poster board and tape it together for a snoot for now. If I need to difuse the light for hair, I'll tape on some T-shirt material. Those Alien Bees honey combs are expensive.

[Peter McLennan]

dwdallam,
The grids are not really diffusers. They control the throw of the light in a very useful manner. Diffusion would allow objectional spill for the hair light. The object is to paint the hair with light, not the shoulders.

Exactly.  The grid and a T-shirt diffuser do exactly the opposite things.  Grids work more like barn doors than diffusion.

Peter

[dwdallam]

dwdallam,

I think you should be very careful with your t-shirt idea. I would be afraid of a fire from the modeling lights. I use 150 watt (a recommended self-installed option) - I would never cover them with cloth.

The grids are not really diffusers. They control the throw of the light in a very useful manner. Diffusion would allow objectional spill for the hair light. The object is to paint the hair with light, not the shoulders. Also, the grids still allow some specular quality to the light, thus more appealing hair rendering (in my opnion). This is really a classic studio lighting technique. A snoot does the same thing, but only has one tight throw angle - I find the set of 4 snap-in grids much more versitile. I use them for a lot of other light control purposes.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=53786\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Bob, I'M KEEPING THE PINK!

Well, yeah that is true. I really didn't even think about the modeling light temperature. I just bought three replacement bulbs, the small 150 wt halogens that you can get in the traditional incandescent screw in fixture in a bulb-like frosted glass. You know which ones I'm talking about. So yeah, they will be too hot to do that. I'm probably gonna order those grids and then some gel filters too. However, I may be able to fabricate a snoot from some thin plastic, liek those that cutting boards are made from, that will attach to the refelctors. And then a peice of the acetate colored filter material could go on the end of that (about 12" away from the light). I mean I know it's not a replacement, but only a work around.

[dwdallam]

Bob,

While I'm at it, you say you use the AB's lights? If so, what softboxes are cheaper and compatible with the AB lights? How do they mount compared to the AB Softboxes?

[boku]

While I'm at it, you say you use the AB's lights? If so, what softboxes are cheaper and compatible with the AB lights? How do they mount compared to the AB Softboxes?

dwdallam,

Can't help you there - I just bought a pair of the medium sized softboxes that AB sells. I don't think there are many that are cheaper since AB includes the fitting ring with theirs. For portrait work, with a reflector panel, you could very well get by with only one.

Softbox(es) aren't necessary, just another approach. You can use umbrellas like you have. I found that I like using softboxes. Don't feel compelled to do what I did. Try the umbrellas and "get your feet wet".

[Digiteyesed]

While I'm at it, you say you use the AB's lights? If so, what softboxes are cheaper and compatible with the AB lights? How do they mount compared to the AB Softboxes?

I'm also a Bee owner (2 B800s and 4 B1600s). The softboxes with the large grey 'universal speed rings' you find all over eBay won't mount straight to your Bees. I got around this by sawing the end off a coffee can, making a hole in the bottom, mounting the can to the strobe and then mounting the speed ring to the coffee can. It works like a damn and the fix is hidden by the soft box.

I have some pictures of the fix kicking around somewhere. If I can't find them I'll take and post a few more.

[Digiteyesed]

Softbox(es) aren't necessary, just another approach. You can use umbrellas like you have. I found that I like using softboxes. Don't feel compelled to do what I did.

My preference is to use softboxes when working with a single subject and sometimes with couples. The advantage that a softbox has over a brollie is that you can 'feather' the light and adjust how much light falls on the backdrop. I really enjoy the extra control this gives me. There's no one right way to approach this, of course. It all comes down to personal preference.