real worls use of flourescent lights

[mstevensphoto]

Hi All,
   I photograph animals of all types in studio. I've had a number of people in passing say things like "you've got to try the spiderlights" and other 3-5 bulb CFL systems. I'm wondering if anyone can give me some simple experiences or ideas. I prefer to use strobes but need a solution for those animals that are spooked by the strobes. I have a Natural light studio that gets diffused sun most of the day. On any given day I can take a picture at iso 800 at 1/250th and f2.8 to f4 in the studio with no supplemental light. I have an area of my studio that I can completely eliminate outside light from as well.
   My questions for the non $1000+ flourescent solutions are thus:
   Is there any that would realistically fit into my natural light situation (let's leave color temp out for now and just talk power) that could let me modift my light in any meaningful way?
   Given a dark room are there any flourescent solutions that would allow me to shoot at no more than iso800 and no less than f 2.8 at 1/250th? What about when a soft box is introduced - assume the lights can be close (2-6 ft from the subject)?
    Are these things a prosumer toy or will they stand up to a whole 10 hour day's use?

I know so much depends on distance and modifiers, but I'm trying to determine if the multi bulb rigs make any sense. I've used and loved Kino Flo but simply can't afford the $8-9k I'd need to drop to get a 5 light setup with their products.

thanks for your insight
Mark

[K.C.]

You needed 5 Kinos to shoot ?

2 Kinos and a couple of sheets of foamcore can light a big set. There are other brands that cost less. Videssence is big on the east coast. Bowens make a wide range of FL lights.

High efficiency comes from a well designed reflector/enclosure and a high frequency ballast. That's not cheap to manufacture and the market is limited and dying.

LEDs are the future/present in continuous light.

http://www.calumetphoto.com/eng/product/calumet_pro_series_led_studio_panel_light/cf9031

[mstevensphoto]

I appreciate your input, but it didn't really answer any of my questions.
I frequently use many more than two lights.

[K.C.]

I appreciate your input, but it didn't really answer any of my questions.
I frequently use many more than two lights.

We all use more than 2 lights. With something like a Kino, or any CFL for that matter, it's pretty non-directional light. It's hard to imagine how or why you'd use 5. You can't grid them. A softbox is redundant. Few modifiers work on FL or CFL.

Literal answers to your question about exposure will be speculation at best, if anyone tries to answer it.

[K.C.]

Here you go. These are what I use when I work with CFL. I have 2 of the EI300 and 4 of the EI200 with 4 tubes per fixture.

These sold for $2K each new.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Balcar-300-EI-Fluxlite-Outfit-hot-lights-/370591971955?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item564900ba73#ht_2198wt_1183

[DeeJay]

A single 4x4 Kino will give you 250th at f1.4 at iso 160 at a normal portrait sort of distance. I use them a fair bit, they are a very nice light source but they are limited in terms of modification.

The cheaper flouro option is a trip to the hardware store to pick up some strip lighting. Replace the bulbs with daylight bulbs and have an electrician wire them up of you. I've done this in the past and it worked fine it was too long ago to remember what my exposures where though.

If you want something directional and you're on a budget you need to shoot with tungsten. I've shot animals with tungsten and HMI before and they work well. Much easier to modify too. You can get redhead kits quite cheap these days.

Either that or rent a daylight studio or set up a background outside.