So the OP is saying the took a shot of a room with their camera, printed it, and then is holding it up so they can see the print and the room at the same time, and have decided the print is too dark because it doesn't look like the scene they see?
sorry, but I don't see the logic in that at all, not sure why the OP would even expect it, and have never heard of anyone printing this way. There is no workflow I"m aware of where this is a plausible scenario, and I can't understand why anyone would think this is a logical expectation.
What control is there to "light" the print when doing this type of comparison? I see you all trying to explain things as though he might have a color management problem, but bottom line this is a pretty illogical approach, and the idea that he shouldn't have to make adjustments to a file because it is "exposed" correctly is crazy, seeing how there isn't really any such thing. All the meter in the camera is doing is driving everything to a consistent level of grey, so if there is a lot of dark stuff in the scene the file will be "overexposed" even though it says 0EV, if there is a lot of light stuff in the scene the file will be underexposed, and assuming you shouldn't have to make any adjustments at all to get a perfect print is illogical.
My suggestion is quit trying to evaluate a print by holding up against the original scene you photography ... if you want to do that fine, but then after you hold it up understand you will always have to make adjustments to it. There is absolutely no magic in metering systems and an exposure of 0EV just means the entire scene will blend to an 18% gray. Shoot a white wall at 0, a black wall at 0, print them both with no adjustments (assuming the camera maker and software don't interfere) and guess what ... you get too prints pretty much the same tone of grey.