Gallery wrap frames that moves?

[Jozef Zajaz]

Hi!

I sold this print a couple of weeks ago. Now i got pictures from the client saying that the framed has moved. I've never seen this problem before. Any ideas how to fix/avoid this?

[dgberg]

It is easy for wood to warp in the winter,especially if it is over a heat register.
What type of stretchers? Mitered glued and stapled at the corners? Or the ones with adjustable keys?
If the key type then they need tightened at the corners for starters but still may not be the problem.
If fixed/glued corners I would take it down and lay it flat on a table and see if it is warped? Looks like it already is.
With care you can twist a little warp out of these things,best done at the shop. When I've done it in the past it was before stretching.
Not sure if I would instruct a customer to try that!
After checking for flatness on a tabletop and its off less then 1/4" I just put a 1/4" clear bumper in that raised corner so it will not rock on the wall.
Most if not all of these semi fixes should be done by you. If they live nearby have them bring it in.
Worth a try and a lot less cost then making a new one.

As far as what caused it,good question. Stretchers may not be properly kiln dried? Then it gets in to a home with extra dry heat and there is the recipe for disaster.

[bill t.]

Wood warps when it's dry, canvas sags when it's humid.  So the fun is only beginning!

Beyond using really good, properly dried Basswood bars, there is also a somewhat passive solution to this problem.  Put d-ring hangers about 6 inches above the vertical centers of the vertical bars which will have the effect of keeping the canvas snugged up against the wall, thereby limiting it's ability to boogy around.  The downside is that you have to ask your client to mount two nails or screws in their walls at exactly the same height and with the proper spacing, and good luck with that!  Did you know most people are afraid of tape measures?  But you can tell them the canvas will never, ever become unlevel.

In the illustration I chose a d-ring with a broad, only slightly curved top because that doesn't require super accurate left-right nail positioning by your client.  Don't use the types with a sharp ^ shape at the top because if the centers are wrong, that can further stress the canvas.

[Jozef Zajaz]

It is easy for wood to warp in the winter,especially if it is over a heat register.
What type of stretchers? Mitered glued and stapled at the corners? Or the ones with adjustable keys?
If the key type then they need tightened at the corners for starters but still may not be the problem.
If fixed/glued corners I would take it down and lay it flat on a table and see if it is warped? Looks like it already is.
With care you can twist a little warp out of these things,best done at the shop. When I've done it in the past it was before stretching.
Not sure if I would instruct a customer to try that!
After checking for flatness on a tabletop and its off less then 1/4" I just put a 1/4" clear bumper in that raised corner so it will not rock on the wall.
Most if not all of these semi fixes should be done by you. If they live nearby have them bring it in.
Worth a try and a lot less cost then making a new one.

As far as what caused it,good question. Stretchers may not be properly kiln dried? Then it gets in to a home with extra dry heat and there is the recipe for disaster.

The stretchers are regular ones like this: http://www.kilramar.se/10-55-large/3d-deep-edge.jpg

They don't live nearby.

Yes probably not correctly dried I'll talk with my supplier aswell.

[Jozef Zajaz]

Wood warps when it's dry, canvas sags when it's humid.  So the fun is only beginning!

Beyond using really good, properly dried Basswood bars, there is also a somewhat passive solution to this problem.  Put d-ring hangers about 6 inches above the vertical centers of the vertical bars which will have the effect of keeping the canvas snugged up against the wall, thereby limiting it's ability to boogy around.  The downside is that you have to ask your client to mount two nails or screws in their walls at exactly the same height and with the proper spacing, and good luck with that!  Did you know most people are afraid of tape measures?  But you can tell them the canvas will never, ever become unlevel.

In the illustration I chose a d-ring with a broad, only slightly curved top because that doesn't require super accurate left-right nail positioning by your client.  Don't use the types with a sharp ^ shape at the top because if the centers are wrong, that can further stress the canvas.

will try this thank you.