The test is great with a lot of useful information. I have cameras that cover the test range and my main question is when to use each type. I print at 20x30 (Costco $8.95) and larger. I know the experts on this forum will have a lot of valuable advice on this subject, so I will start of with a brief summary of how I decide what to shoot with:
1. APS-C digital: This size was not covered in the test but is important with Sony A65, A77 and Nex-7 at 24mp. I use this when I need low size and weight and/or high depth-of-field. I use the Nex with my Contax G lenses.
2. 35mm full frame DSLR: I use A900 24mp when I need versatility with speed, and a high range of focal lengths. For higher resolution I stitch.
3. MF Film: I use Mamiya 6 for shorter lenses (50mm and 75mm) and Mamiya RZ67 for longer lenses. But actually, not using this system much these days.
4. MF Digital: I use Hasselblad H3DII-39 when I want shallow depth of field, e.g. portraits. This system easily gives DOF of 2cm or less in typical head shots. With the wider lenses, this system also works for some landscapes.
5. 4x5 film: This system has the advantage of movements that can sometimes be helpful to get greater depth of field in landscapes and perspective control. But I don't use it much these days.
6. LF film: I don't have an 8x10 view camera, but have a Fuji 6 x17 camera which comes close to LF resolution in the long direction. I use this to get the "Peter Lik" look in panoramas when I want to print large, and cannot use stitching. I have been using Velvia 50 and 100, but based on this article, I am going to experiment more with negative film to exploit dynamic range.
The biggest cost issue for me is not MFDB cost or processing cost, but the cost of framing large prints! Anyway, that's where I am today, and I love the comments in this thread.
==Doug