Scanning the Ancient Archives - Workflow Recommendations / Plug-ins etc.

[Josh-H]

I have decided to take on the somewhat unenviable task of scanning, restoring and archiving my families 'ancient' photographs as a side project for next year. Many of which are currently slowly fading away; literally stuck down in old albums and have been gathering dust at the bottom of cupboards for decades. Most of the shots were 35mm film and pretty much all the negatives are long lost. So what I have to work with are the 5 x 7 kodak quickie lab prints mostly (many of which are faded and yellow). Most of them are from the 50's, 60's and 70's. There are a few transparencies amongst them as well.

I need some advice on setting up to make this efficient and as painless as possible. I will be purchasing a new scanner for this project; so I could certainly use a recommendation on what brand/model as well as resolution to scan.

Any recommended plug ins that might assist for restoring photographs would also be greatly appreciated. In fact, anything to help streamline the process.

Likewise, general tips on how to tackle this project very much appreciated. I would guesstimate probably in the order of 1000 photographs for this project. Assume 98% of them are prints only at 5 x 7 and the remainder might be a few negatives and trannies. I assume the negs will be a better option for scanning if they are available. I won't know this though until I can spend a few days trying to pair up what negatives there are against the prints and actually assessing the quality of the negatives.

Part two of the project is going to be trying to put some meta-data against the photographs - which is going to mean wading through old diaries and journals.. but thats another problem.

[Mark D Segal]

Hi Josh,

I recommend that you buy an Epson V750 scanner and use SilverFast 8 Ai Studio. It has all the tools you will likely need for what you want to do. It is possible however that for some aspects of image repair you may need to open the images in Photoshop, because no scanning software can handle every challenge optimally.

[Mark D Segal]

Josh,

I should add a couple of points:

Yes - wherever you have the original negatives, it is best to scan those rather than the prints. Resolution and tonality will be much better. If the negatives are 35mm, while the Epson 750 will handle them decently, you would get superior sharpness from a high quality dedicated film scanner, which is hard to find these days. In the new scanner market, a Plustek 8200 is good; in the resale market you won't do better than a Nikon 5000, but it will cost you.

SilverFast has a batch scanning capability useful for frames generated in an Epson V750.

Re workflow, SilverFast has both a guided workflow pilot which takes you through the process in a logical sequence, but you can also use it in an unguided manual mode, where some additional features are available. Between the two you'll be OK.

There are image preparation functions (dimensioning, resolution, file format, bit depth, for colour materials white balancing) you should do in the scanner software and others (luminosity and colour) where editing functions are optional as between the scanner software and another application such as Lightroom or Photoshop. They have different relative advantages and more can be said about this than I can stuff in a forum post, but some experimentation will get you a long way to sorting out your preferences.

[Josh-H]

Mark,

Thanks for the recommendation on the scanner and Silverfast. Greatly appreciated.

What would you say the learning curve is on Silverfast?

Ideally, I'd love to keep the scan process relatively simply and straightforward and get the file into LR for meta data managing the long term archiving. I don't envisage doing much work in PS if I can avoid it.

[Mark D Segal]

Josh,

Using SilverFast 8 should not present too much of a challenge as you are experienced with image editing software. Starting with the "WorkflowPilot" mode will be helpful. As well there are context help notes within the application and links to small movies on particular features made by LaserSoft Imaging. Bringing scans into Lightroom is practical (in fact I described a means of doing so in a previous article on this website, which remains relevant save for some changes of detail due to newer versions of both programs). I would advise you to do the white-balance or gray-balance in SilverFast using their "Neutral Pipette" tool, which allows the setting of up to four points per image, before bringing the image into Lightroom. There are technical reasons for this relating to the advantage particularly with scanned media of being able to average several estimates of what should be gray. I do much of my editing work in Lightroom too, but the reason I mentioned Photoshop is that it has specialized features that can be very helpful for difficult repair work that some ancient media can require and are better done in PS than in either SF or LR. My overall philosophy in these matters is to use the tool that best suits the specific requirements of the image.

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi,

I have used Silverfast and hated it. Not because of the user interface but because of the bugs. It's quite possible that the bugs have been ironed out in the meantime. The user interface on Silverfast is a bit odd but not to horrible. I mostly use Vuescan, and it is a decent option. If you can get your scanner with Silverfast at a decent price it is certainly worth trying.

Best regards
Erik

Mark,

Thanks for the recommendation on the scanner and Silverfast. Greatly appreciated.

What would you say the learning curve is on Silverfast?

Ideally, I'd love to keep the scan process relatively simply and straightforward and get the file into LR for meta data managing the long term archiving. I don't envisage doing much work in PS if I can avoid it.

[Mark D Segal]

Hi,

I have used Silverfast and hated it. Not because of the user interface but because of the bugs. It's quite possible that the bugs have been ironed out in the meantime. The user interface on Silverfast is a bit odd but not to horrible. I mostly use Vuescan, and it is a decent option. If you can get your scanner with Silverfast at a decent price it is certainly worth trying.

Best regards
Erik

Hi Erik, what version of SilverFast are you talking about, for which scanner, and what bugs?

[Oldfox]

I suggest that before you (OP) start your project, read Ctein's book "Digital Restoration From Start to Finish: How to repair old and damaged photographs".

It will answer to questions and problems that you are not aware of (now). At least this happened to me...

[Josh-H]

I suggest that before you (OP) start your project, read Ctein's book "Digital Restoration From Start to Finish: How to repair old and damaged photographs".

It will answer to questions and problems that you are not aware of (now). At least this happened to me...

Thank you for the recommendation on Ctein's book. I was not aware of it and just purchased a copy. (I love the way Amazon lets you preview pages)  

[David Good]

Josh,

I have been restoring old prints for over a decade now. For scanning film or slides I prefer a dedicated film scanner (Canon FS4000, Nikon LS9000) and Vuescan to drive it. I have not scanned trannys with a flatbed so I can't comment on the results obtained from those.

As for scanning prints I believe most current "half decent" scanners are up to the task. Some prefer to shoot them on a copy table, I haven't tried that. The biggest problem you will likely see when scanning old prints is how many scratched and defects are picked up by the scanner's light source. Add to this dust spots and finger prints and you have your work cut out for you. Ctein's book has some innovative ways of dealing with some of these, Katrine Eismann's Restoration and Retouching book is also excellent in this regard.

If you are using CS5 the Content Aware feature can be a real time saver in ridding the scanned print of many of it's defects. By selecting small areas and using Content Aware Fill, which samples from adjacent areas, you can quickly clean up many of the damaged parts that used to take (me) much more time to either clone heal out. 

After all he damage is repaired you will have to deal with contrast/density and color problems as well as some sharpening (I use PK Sharpener). allow yourself time to work on these and the results will speak for themselves. Older prints may exhibit bronzing which can be eliminated but not without some experimentation (hint: all files have 10 channels).

Dave

[Mark D Segal]

Hi Josh,

SilverFast Ai Studio has an excellent infrared-based technology supported by the Epson scanner I recommended, as well as good film scanners, for identifying and removing dust, scratches and other miscellaneous defects from colour positives and colour negatives without impairing image detail. It is called iSRD; it can be operated with more precision and adaptability than either Digital ICE or a somewhat similar tool in Vuescan. Infrared technology is not usable for scanning reflective media such as prints. For that, SilverFast has a dedicated non-infrared tool in the same panel, the main difference being that the detection function is manual rather than automated by the technology. Used carefully, it still saves a hell of a lot of time, with less potential risk to the image, than removing all of this debris in Photoshop or Lightroom. When it comes to doing residual work with defects not amenable to this technique, I agree with David that Photoshop's Content Aware Fill can be an excellent resource used in the way he mentioned, and it is not available in Lightroom.

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi,

I had my experience with a Reflecta Digit Dia 3600 scanner, it came with a version of Silverfast. The problem I had was mostly that it gave inconsistent color, it was different on Firewire and USB and different if I was logged in as a common user or as administrator, and it could change color from day to day. The problem was mostly heavy magenta cast in the shadows. I used the scanner with Vuescan instead and got consistent performance.

Previous Christmas I bought an Optic Film scanner for my dad (he is 82). That scanner was delivered with Silverfast. I think it actually worked but the user interface was a bit to arcane for my dad. My dad used Vuescan before, so we decided to continue with that.

I guess that I shouldn't have commented on bugs, as I don't have a recent experience.

I was not satisfied with the Digitdia, BTW.

Best regards
Erik

Ps. The Digitidia looked like this: http://www.ephotozine.com/article/reflecta-digitdia-3600-film-scanner-review-4375 scan quality was not very impressive and jams were quite frequent.

Hi Erik, what version of SilverFast are you talking about, for which scanner, and what bugs?

[AFairley]

I will second the recommendation for the Epson v750. though you can save some money by stepping down to the v700, which should be more than adequate for your purposes (I got a refurb v700 for Epson for around $430).  The Epson s/w bundled with the printer is very full featured and should do you fine.  The v700 also come bundled with a lite version of Silverfast, but I am one of those people who just did not take to it at all, and have found the Epson s/w does what I want it to do obviating the need to deal with the very steep learning curve for Silverfast.

If you are archiving family snapshot type stuff you will not need a dedicated film scanner for negs or transparencies, IMO.  The Epson does a remarkably good job, and you will not need to eke out that last marginal bit of detail a dedicated scanner might give you (speaking from personal comparisons of the v700 with the Coolscan VI and V).

Since scanning done right is very time consuming, you could consider a service such as ScanCafe, which offers a print scanning service unless you want to spend many many (to me) boring hours with the scanner.

I have a similiar project waiting for me to have time to tackle it....that's probably years away at this point.  Good luck and enjoy.

[Mark D Segal]

Epson Scan is limited compared with SilverFast. It's useful for elementary tasks like making photocopies and creating PDF documents. I wouldn't use it for serious photographic work, but I do use it for routine office stuff. SilverFast 8 does not have a "steep" learning curve; but like any software it does have a learning curve. It's design is much improved over SilverFast 6 as a result of which the application has become much more accessible. There are some non-trivial differences between the Epson 750 and 700. Read the product descriptions carefully, then make up your mind what is best for you.

[AFairley]

Epson Scan is limited compared with SilverFast. It's useful for elementary tasks like making photocopies and creating PDF documents. I wouldn't use it for serious photographic work, but I do use it for routine office stuff.

Mark, there is serious photographic work and serious photographic work, I guess.  Epson Scan has levels, curves, channels and color balance adjustments (among others), so the app obviously has a pretty complete feature set.  The implication in your statement that it's "useful for elementary tasks" is simply wrong, just to set the record straight.

[Mark D Segal]

OK, maybe I exaggerated a bit - sure, Epson Scan has some basic adjustment tools. That said, I've used all these applications a lot and have learned that the devil is in the detail of what they do and how one can manipulate them, rather than simply the list of tools they include. It's all relative both between applications and between the applications and what one wants of them in terms of operational factors and results. The fulsomeness of duplicated tools and the toolset itself differs between applications. There's a reason why Epson has been bundling both Epson Scan and SilverFast Ai with the V750 scanner.

[AFairley]

There's a reason why Epson has been bundling both Epson Scan and SilverFast Ai with the V750 scanner.

One of these days I really have to bite the bullet, grab the tutorials and work my way through SilverFast to get a handle on it.....

[louoates]

Lots of good ideas here so far so I'll add one simple step that has saved me lots of time with old color scans of photos that have faded or shifted colors. I'm referring to the auto color correction in Photoshop: Image/Autocolor. I've found it to be amazing in cases where I had lots of decently scanned old photos. It works for me 90% of the time with no further color tinkering although in some cases the autocolor will get you very close to where you want to be, needing just a few other adjustments.
I think the dust and crud removal is by far the most time consuming chore, especially when making enlargements. I don't like using any auto filters for dust as it often degrades the image in important areas like face detail that then requires even more work.

[Mark D Segal]

One of these days I really have to bite the bullet, grab the tutorials and work my way through SilverFast to get a handle on it.....

I recommend you do this with the new version 8 - much better interface than ever before.

[Mark D Segal]

Lots of good ideas here so far so I'll add one simple step that has saved me lots of time with old color scans of photos that have faded or shifted colors. I'm referring to the auto color correction in Photoshop: Image/Autocolor. I've found it to be amazing in cases where I had lots of decently scanned old photos. It works for me 90% of the time with no further color tinkering although in some cases the autocolor will get you very close to where you want to be, needing just a few other adjustments.
I think the dust and crud removal is by far the most time consuming chore, especially when making enlargements. I don't like using any auto filters for dust as it often degrades the image in important areas like face detail that then requires even more work.

There are several tools for restoring colour and achieving colour balance non-destructively in SilverFast HDR. SilverFast Ai and HDR both handle dust and scratch removal in a jiffy (preserving image detail integrity) with the iSRD tool on colour slides and negatives, but not for black and white negatives and reflective media. For the media on which iSRD works I wouldn't waste my time using anything else, save for the odd bit it may miss.