Wood Float Frames

[kenben]

I am interested in getting some wood float frames for my canvas prints.Does anyone have any expeirence with this set up.Where are they available.

[Ken]

http://www.framedestination.com/txtsearch/floater/

[Paul2660]

Most of the major frame companies will have a series of float frames.  You need to determine how much depth you want with your canvas.  Even then
you still may have to use spacers to get it just right.  
You also will have to determine just how much distance you want from the edge of the canvas to the inside of the floater.
Examples I have used,
Larson Silhouette (wonderful frame, black rounded top but very expensive)
Studio has several versions of a floater that is very close to Larson's silhouette, but it is cheaper
Roma, wonderful floaters, but by far the most expensive of any I have listed
Omega, makes a an entire series of float frames.

All of these are brands of frames and can only be purchased by a framer.  I would recommend finding a local frame shop that carries a wide variety of
frames and then ask them to see some corner samples.  
Also unless you have exact sizes and even then it can be tough, it is very hard to get a mail order float frame to fit.

Paul Caldwell

[SignBoy]

Do you guys know good gallery frames wholesale companies?
Thanks,

Greg

[bill t.]

All the regular moulding suppliers carry so-called floater frames.

My best advice...if you're new to framing, stay away from floater frames!  They are very unforgiving as to dimensions.  If the space between canvas and frame is not exactly the same all the way around...problem.  It's tricky to cut and join floater moulding to the unusually close tolerances required.   The attachment of the canvas to the frame can be fiddly.  If the canvas is not square...problem.  If the canvas is bunched up at the corners...problem.  I could go on.  But basically, no other kind of frame requires that everything be as perfect as you need it to be to get a nice looking floater presentation.  Nothing quite so ragged looking as a sloppy floater frame.

A close alternative is to use "shadowbox" moulding which is just like regular moulding, except deeper.  There's a lip which handily covers up the minor tolerance errors and un-squareness between frame and canvas.  The look is very similar to floaters, and very handsome.  And the effort required is about 1/2.

Go to omegamoulding.com at look at number 80408 for a nice example.  That one has a rabbet depth of 1.5" under the lip, you can get other models in other depths.

[kenben]

I should explain further.I do not want to put the canvas on stretchers. I will have the canvas dry mounted.

[davidh202]

Dry mounted on what?
Just about all the  "float frames" mouldings available are way too deep for anything less than a minumum of 3/4 to 1 inch deep substrate unless you are building up the backs and putting the moulding directly against the sides ,which essentially defeats the "float look" they are designed for.The floaters are meant to be spaced about 1/4 " or more from the edges.  
I might add that unless you are a legitimate business owner with a  resale # you will not be able to purchase from most of the wholesale companies already mentioned.

I agree with Bill T that unless you are an experienced framer or woodworker and have the proper woodworking tools, floaters are difficult to work.  

[kenben]

On foam core.I may have to come up with a different idea.Any ideas.

[bill t.]

You would need to build a spacer to support the dry mounted canvas up at about the height of the frame.  This can be made out of anything that you can glue to, but avoid the cheapest pine that may have sap problems later.  It's basically another frame used just for height.  You would want to paint black the parts that might be visible down through gap around the perimeter of the art.  It's a lot of extra work for the look.

Also, the sides of the flat drymounted art will be visible.  Usually you would want to wrap the print around the substrate, which is fairly easy to do with glue but not possible with dry mounting where the white edge of the print will be visible and quite noticeable.

Would really like to reiterate that a deep shadow box moulding would solve a lot of problems here, while still achieving a very arty look.

Most moulding companies now require only that you supply a resale number, and most do no verification at all.  Photographers have become a very significant clientele for the moulding companies, to the chagrin of many framers.