Tips for not scratching big prints

[Sven W]

Some of you out there has sent me some messages off-line, interested in my simple solution to avoid scratching big prints.
I's nothing special, but it's cheap and works.

So here they are:

Just before the print reach the take-up-basket, I put two long shelves, made of melamine, to rest on the long barrier between the wheelpairs. The shelves has rubber-stops, hooked on the barrier, preventing it to glide itself.
 
In that way, the print glides gently, not touching anything. I use this method when my prints reach more than about 100 cm.
I also attach an image on one new Epson-accessories, for their WT7900. Maybe they spied on me  
(I think you have to be logged in to see the attached images)
/Sven

[nilo]

Thanks again Seven for those pictures!

regards
nino

[narikin]

I see you have the Spectroproofer.  How have you found it?
Useful for profile building, calibration or whatever.  do you still have an offline system you use for profiling?

thanks

[Sven W]

I see you have the Spectroproofer.  How have you found it?
Useful for profile building, calibration or whatever.  do you still have an offline system you use for profiling?

thanks

We bought it bundled with the printer(or they gave it away!). It´s a superior device, but it has one Big disadvantage: You can´t make a profile without proper software 
The Spectro measures and export the data, but we have to continue building profiles with ProfileMaker.
But if you work e.g. with the EFI Colorproof XF RIP, it's very powerful, because the software works completely together with the SP.
You can read another message in this thread:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=45896.msg384478#msg384478

/Sven

[Ernst Dinkla]

Just before the print reach the take-up-basket, I put two long shelves, made of melamine, to rest on the long barrier between the wheelpairs. The shelves has rubber-stops, hooked on the barrier, preventing it to glide itself.
 
In that way, the print glides gently, not touching anything. I use this method when my prints reach more than about 100 cm.
I also attach an image on one new Epson-accessories, for their WT7900. Maybe they spied on me  
(I think you have to be logged in to see the attached images)
/Sven

Sven,

I have a roller bar in front of the printer. On it a carton core 15cm diameter + a paper sleeve taped to it. Q style. With sizes from 1 to 5 meter or more the print is rolled up on it, against the curl. The next long print gets its own 15 cm core. For further handling, cutting etc it is way easier to have the print(s) rolled on a core.

met vriendelijke groeten, Ernst Dinkla

Dinkla Gallery Canvas Wrap Actions for Photoshop
http://www.pigment-print.com/dinklacanvaswraps/index.html

[Sven W]

Nice idea, Ernst. But I wouldn't dare to roll up fragile and expensive Baryta papers !
Especially if there are lots of dark areas. Even the smallest micro-scratch on these glossy, delicate surfaces will be
discovered by my (fussy) customers.

/Sven

[poshcolor]

Hi Ernst,
it seems that you have found a very nice setup witch,unfortunately,I can't visualize.It's true that I'm not experienced enough in LFP and my engineering skills are limited,so would be kind to post some pictures of this?
I'm also skeptical about rolling up Harman by Hahn baryta papers but that might be the perfect solution for the heavy curling of those papers.
Thank you,
Silviu

[marty m]

Epson calls the new accessory (in the third attachment provided by Sven) the film output bin for the 7900W.  Since the 7900W appears to be identical to a 7900 in construction, I wonder if the film output bin would work on a standard 7900, and if Epson would consider selling it as an accessory?

Even if they did, Sven's solution is much cheaper.  If you want the really cheap way to do the same thing, although it is not as permanent, buy a piece of rigid foam core and cut it to size.  That's what I did.  I don't make that many large prints, and just store the foam core behind a door when not in use.