Leaf Valeo 22win - greenish cast

[gebseng]

All images shot with my Leaf Valeo 22wi have a greenish cast. This happens in sunlight as well as in tungsten settings. this effect always shows, no matter if i open the images in ACR or in LC11, it is also not dependent on which kind of lens i use (Schneider lenses on a 4x5" view camera, not shifted).
I am using the lens calibration file stored on the back. Would it help to generate a new lens calibration file?
The cast can easily be corrected in ACR or LC11, but nevertheless it would be nice to have a good looking file right from the beginning.
A crop sample image (daylight, please note the cast of the grey concrete floor)(LC11 settings: Valeo 22 daylight - 5619K, Tint 0, develop curve Valeo 22 Product, color look: valeo 22 product 4) is attached

thanks for your input,

geb

[ThierryH]

All images shot with my Leaf Valeo 22wi have a greenish cast. This happens in sunlight as well as in tungsten settings. this effect always shows, no matter if i open the images in ACR or in LC11, it is also not dependent on which kind of lens i use (Schneider lenses on a 4x5" view camera, not shifted).
I am using the lens calibration file stored on the back. Would it help to generate a new lens calibration file?
The cast can easily be corrected in ACR or LC11, but nevertheless it would be nice to have a good looking file right from the beginning.
A crop sample image (daylight, please note the cast of the grey concrete floor)(LC11 settings: Valeo 22 daylight - 5619K, Tint 0, develop curve Valeo 22 Product, color look: valeo 22 product 4) is attached

thanks for your input,

geb

Dear geb,

Do you make a WB, respectively shoot a Macbeth chart or 18% neutral grey and click on it to assure light balance?

A lens calibration file does not help here, but a correct WB to start with.

Best regards,
Thierry

[UlfKrentz]

All images shot with my Leaf Valeo 22wi have a greenish cast. This happens in sunlight as well as in tungsten settings. this effect always shows, no matter if i open the images in ACR or in LC11, it is also not dependent on which kind of lens i use (Schneider lenses on a 4x5" view camera, not shifted).
I am using the lens calibration file stored on the back. Would it help to generate a new lens calibration file?
The cast can easily be corrected in ACR or LC11, but nevertheless it would be nice to have a good looking file right from the beginning.
A crop sample image (daylight, please note the cast of the grey concrete floor)(LC11 settings: Valeo 22 daylight - 5619K, Tint 0, develop curve Valeo 22 Product, color look: valeo 22 product 4) is attached

thanks for your input,

geb

Hi,

our experience is that all Leaf backs have "their own" color. You will have to find your specific neutral level. The easiest way is to use the grey picker tool and apply it to a neutral part of the image or better a photographed gray card or field in the color chart. Once done press the right arrow button in LC11 (which means all future shots will be done with these values). You can edit the values also directly, e.g. 5600K, Tint 22. Do the same with all other relevant settings like moire reduction, color profiles etc. You can save your settings to a complete set and recall it anytime. We also use the curve Product and color look product 4. There will be no need to do this all the time, once you found your setting it will stay very stable, if you keep your light color right.
Also make sure you have the same RGB profile in the output section that you are using in Photoshop!

Cheers

Ulf

[Steve Hendrix]

Hi,

our experience is that all Leaf backs have "their own" color. You will have to find your specific neutral level. The easiest way is to use the grey picker tool and apply it to a neutral part of the image or better a photographed gray card or field in the color chart. Once done press the right arrow button in LC11 (which means all future shots will be done with these values). You can edit the values also directly, e.g. 5600K, Tint 22. Do the same with all other relevant settings like moire reduction, color profiles etc. You can save your settings to a complete set and recall it anytime. We also use the curve Product and color look product 4. There will be no need to do this all the time, once you found your setting it will stay very stable, if you keep your light color right.
Also make sure you have the same RGB profile in the output section that you are using in Photoshop!

Cheers

Ulf

You can also save these for future use. I've found the Leaf Color Looks to have a significant impact on overall color. Even if you neutralize an image, you might play with the different Color Looks and see which are most successful with your back. Some are warmer, cooler, etc. I often default to using ProPhoto RGB It's at the lower end of the pull down menu) as a Color Look for a good, pleasing, neutral all purpose Color Profile. In this case it is not being used as a Color Space, but as a Color Input Profile.


Steve Hendrix