Light !

[Morgan_Moore]

So Ive got $$$$ of Elinchrom modifiers, softboxes which would be nice to use for shooting moving images in my studio

Ive found elinchrom scanlights - worth buying ?

I also could just put some badboy lightbulbs in old some classic heads

would there be a difference

Will there be flicker issues

Will I burn down the studio

Is tungsten correction gell better than just AWB of a grey card in a tungsten only environment (I assume so)

Any other continuous lights fit elly kit

Any further comments

SMM

[smthopr]

So Ive got $$$$ of Elinchrom modifiers, softboxes which would be nice to use for shooting moving images in my studio

Ive found elinchrom scanlights - worth buying ?

I also could just put some badboy lightbulbs in old some classic heads

would there be a difference

Will there be flicker issues

Will I burn down the studio

Is tungsten correction gell better than just AWB of a grey card in a tungsten only environment (I assume so)

Any other continuous lights fit elly kit

Any further comments

SMM

Tungsten lights get very very hot.  If your "modifiers" are not designed to handle the heat, you could burn down the studio.  You could also start an electrical fire by overloading electrical circuits or light fixtures. (I once set a ceiling on fire by bouncing a 1000w tungsten light off it.)

There will be no flicker issues with tungsten lights.

If you're shooting digital, you can white balance to the tungsten lights with good results.  You might get a less noisy image by using a blue filter over the camera lens and then white balancing.  This will also save you from having to gel all the lights.  If you're shooting with tungsten lights mixed with daylight, then you'll have to gel the lights instead.  Personally, I've always shot digital movies by setting the camera to tungsten light or daylight depending on the situation.

Welcome to filmmaking!

[Morgan_Moore]

Tungsten lights get very very hot.  If your "modifiers" are not designed to handle the heat, you could burn down the studio.  You could also start an electrical fire by overloading electrical circuits or light fixtures. (I once set a ceiling on fire by bouncing a 1000w tungsten light off it.)

There will be no flicker issues with tungsten lights.

If you're shooting digital, you can white balance to the tungsten lights with good results.  You might get a less noisy image by using a blue filter over the camera lens and then white balancing.  This will also save you from having to gel all the lights.  If you're shooting with tungsten lights mixed with daylight, then you'll have to gel the lights instead.  Personally, I've always shot digital movies by setting the camera to tungsten light or daylight depending on the situation.

Welcome to filmmaking!

Thanks - good to know about flicker and blue filter

My modifiers are standard Elly snoots, barndoors and grids, I also have a profoto softbox which has 'air flaps' for hot light use

I have a very high ceiling and concrete walls in my studio

So it should be safe - but I will still take great care with the softbox

Anyone know if elinchrom scanlights are worth it or if I can workaround with my standard heads - or maybe get a different brand of hotlight or even LED or flouro that fits elly modifiers  ??
S

[Robin Balas]

Well, my Brons have 650W modelling lights today (240V do - not 120V), I could do a lot with those as is - especially of what I do which doesn't involve huge outdoor scenes.
Needs a few more heads though and those are quite expensive, but most of my modifiers are ok with more than 650W - even my softboxes.
MHO.

[sergio]

Don't use tungsten lights with softboxes designed for flash if you care for them. Get special softboxes for tungsten. Chimera makes them and they are very good.

[Robin Balas]

Don't use tungsten lights with softboxes designed for flash if you care for them. Get special softboxes for tungsten. Chimera makes them and they are very good.

That is what I got due to the 650W modelling lights, and they are quite good and robust as well.