Topic: How to use Premier Printshield (Read 4051 times)

Michael Bailey · « **on:** August 20, 2008, 10:39:17 pm »

I've just made some prints with my Epson 3800 on "Enhanced Matte" paper, and want to spray them with Premier Printshield before they get scuffed and scratched.

Can I spray as soon as the print no longer feels wet, or should I wait a certain time to be sure the ink is dried/cured? An hour? A day?

Sorry for the simple question, but half an hour of searching here and on the Premier site hasn't done me any good.

Thanks, MB

Michael Bailey · « **Reply #1 on:** August 20, 2008, 10:42:04 pm »

While I'm at it, should I ever spray the backs of the prints? MB

simplify · « **Reply #2 on:** August 21, 2008, 12:38:01 am »

I don't recommend using this toxic stuff.

mikeearly · « **Reply #3 on:** August 21, 2008, 06:26:01 am »

Michael, I just attended a workshop by John Paul Camponigro and he uses the stuff all the time ... he said he sprays it up and lets it mist over the print .... seems to me that was after the print had out-gassed over a day or so ... he also mentioned that he sprayed it outside the studio...... FWIW, his site mentions that he treats all of his images with it......

Ernst Dinkla · « **Reply #4 on:** August 21, 2008, 07:14:49 am »

Quote

he said he sprays it up and lets it mist over the print .... seems to me that was after the print had out-gassed over a day or so ... he also mentioned that he sprayed it outside the studio...... FWIW, his site mentions that he treats all of his images with it......
[{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

That's what I observed with more acrylic solvent sprays on matte inkjet coatings, the spray distance to the print has to be carefully chosen. Either too close and the spray is sucked up and changes the texture/black or too far and it sets like dew on the surface. There's a distance and spray speed in between but I can not say that I have the skill for that. Used it on Hahnemuhle papers like Photorag. I find it hard to believe that the fountain method (if I interpret your text correct) will not result in a kind of dew on the surface.

Ernst Dinkla

Try: [a href=\"http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Wide_Inkjet_Printers/]http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Wide_Inkjet_Printers/[/url]

Dale_Cotton · « **Reply #5 on:** August 21, 2008, 07:41:37 am »

Wait at least 24 hours. You should not be able to smell the ink. Whether to spray both sides depends on your goal. For UV protection, no; for humidity sealing AKA vapour barrier (to whatever degree it can do this), yes.

Print Shield is essentially a lacquer, what artists call a fixative; artists who work in pastel have been spraying fixatives on their pictures for hundreds of years.

A bit of warning, FWIW: the same company that markets Print Shield also markets Eco Shield. Print Shield is a spray-on, just like an artist's fixative; but Eco Shield is a brush-on or roll-on product. I've been told that it's much more difficult to avoid streaking and other problems with brush-ons or roll-ons; I suspect it's really intended for experienced professionals.

Another reason to consider Print Shield over Eco Shield is that we have the Henry Wilhelm longevity figures for Print Shield, not for Eco Shield ... or at least that was the case back in the old days when I was still able to navigate his site.

Ernest Dinkla wrote:

Quote

Either too close and the spray is sucked up and changes the texture/black or too far and it sets like dew on the surface.

FWIW, I've never had a problem with this using Print Shield. Simply by following the directions on the can as to spraying height and speed. The one thing you have to determine by experiment is how many coats you can apply before matte blacks begin to fog over.

Michael Bailey · « **Reply #6 on:** August 21, 2008, 10:26:28 am »

Wow! Four replies in twelve hours. Thank you all for your responses.

"simplify," you are true to your name. Sorry I can't promise to follow your advice completely. For my lungs' sake I only use this stuff rarely, and always outside. For the sake of the atmosphere, I have to hope the spray is benign. I believe it's free of CFCs, but if anyone knows of other environmental reasons to steer clear of these materials, I'm glad to hear them.

In my limited experience I haven't run into the problems a couple of you describe. What I've really liked about the product is how easily it makes the prints feel more "handleable" (?) without noticeably changing the appearance of the surface. It eliminates the tacky, scratchy feel of my favorite paper, Innova F-Type Gloss, and lets me stack it into a portfolio case.

Thanks again. MB

Paul2660 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 21, 2008, 03:05:06 pm »

If you are worried about your lungs, I would recommend getting a 3M respirator. You can get one that will handle any type of spray. You can get them at any Home Depot or Lowes. The replacement filters you can get from 3M. I would consider replacement of filters about once every 6 to 8 months.

Premier Print shield does seem to help on gloss dif. with Luster Paper. I notice Gloss differential more on the Luster paper than Premium Glossy on prints on the 9880.

One other note, Clearstar or Glamour II, even though they are water based, you don't want to be spraying them without a respirator either. They don't have the strong odor that the Premier Print shield has but are not what you want to be breathing in.

Also, I have unfortunately discovered that prints sprayed with Premier Print Shield will still outgass. I let all my RC's dry for 24 hours, then place them between sheets of absorbent paper for 48 hours. Then I spray them. I have had some still outgass.

BTW if you are using matte paper, outgassing shouldn't be an issue from what I have read.

Paul C

Author Topic: How to use Premier Printshield (Read 4051 times)