CF-22 on a Contax 645 and a RZ67

[garycamp]

I use Canon DSLRs for low light situations and action photography but I am considering the purchase of a new CF-22 to get my Contax 645 and RZ67 Pro II off the shelf.  I want to use them for travel photography, portraits and formal wedding shots.

The CF-22 is priced right since Hasselblad offers a $5,000.00 trade allowance and I have a Kodak 645C to trade.

I considered Phase One because I use and like C1 for the Canons but there is no trade allowance and I could not use their back on both camera platforms.  Leaf falls into the same category.  Sinar does have a back with adapters for both platforms but is more expensive and does not offer the trade allowance.

I considered selling the Contax system and buying a Mamiya 645 AFD system so a single AFD compatible back (ZD perhaps) would fit both camera systems but I love the waist level finder and the glass (35mm & 120 Macro) on the Contax system.  Plus I own the Contax system and would not have to risk selling and buying on the used market.

I considered selling the RZ67 system and just getting a direct mount Contax back but RZ67 stuff sells for peanuts and many of the sharpest photographs I have ever taken are from the RZ67.  I have read posts on this forum that the RZ gives wonderful IQ with a digital back.  I really want to see what the IQ is with a 22 mpix sensor in the sweet spot of a 6x7 size lens.  My eyes also appreciate the waist level finder of the RZ (and Contax) because I am getting old and it seems to be harder to focus each year.  

So I think I am hooked on the CF-22 but I would appreciate it if the MFDB community would  share comments, opinions and mostly their experiences related to any or all of this equipment.

Thank you in advance,
Gary Campbell

[ixpressraf]

Hi,
I do use both my CF39 and 384c on contax and mamiya RZ ( among other camera's). This works perfect. On location, fashion and most handheld pictures are done with the contax. They have beuatiful portrait lenses, is a lightweight and inexpensive system. In studio however, when you as said want to take advantage of the extreme sharpnes of the RZ lenses: go for it. I have no other lenses exept for my digitar and apo componon lenses that deliver such extreme sharp pictures.
Changing adapters is easy and without any problem. The adapter uses special tork screws wich prevent the screwdriver to slip and damage the sensor. I frequently change adapterplate and never experianced any problem.
Image quality is as expected perfect.
Overall, the perfect way to use different systems with one back.

[yaya]

You can buy a Contax>RZ adapter from ECO - Digital Which means you can still consider Leaf or Phase as your chosen back.

Yair

[thsinar]

Dear Gary,

FYI: Sinar DOES trade-in! I don't know who has told you that, but we have an official trade-in price for ANY digital CCD sensor given/taken back (complete and in working condition). I would contact our distributor.

Best regards,
Thierry

Sinar does have a back with adapters for both platforms but is more expensive and does not offer the trade allowance.

Thank you in advance,
Gary Campbell
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136814\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

[garycamp]

Hi,
I do use both my CF39 and 384c on contax and mamiya RZ ( among other camera's). This works perfect. On location, fashion and most handheld pictures are done with the contax. They have beuatiful portrait lenses, is a lightweight and inexpensive system. In studio however, when you as said want to take advantage of the extreme sharpnes of the RZ lenses: go for it. I have no other lenses exept for my digitar and apo componon lenses that deliver such extreme sharp pictures.
Changing adapters is easy and without any problem. The adapter uses special tork screws wich prevent the screwdriver to slip and damage the sensor. I frequently change adapterplate and never experianced any problem.
Image quality is as expected perfect.
Overall, the perfect way to use different systems with one back.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136839\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thank you very much for sharing your experience.  Have you had to use the shim package to mount the CF at the correct focal plane?  If so, does this make moving the back from one camera platform to another more difficult?

[garycamp]

You can buy a Contax>RZ adapter from ECO - Digital Which means you can still consider Leaf or Phase as your chosen back.

Yair
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136845\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thanks for the information and the link.  However RicAgu mentioned in another thread, that you have to use it ECO DIGITAL's One shot cable and that looks a bit messy.  Phase back on a Phase adapter would have been great but I don't think they make a Contax to RZ adapter.

Additionally, Phase and Leaf do not have a trade in program which puts them outside my budget for a 22 mpix back.

Thanks,
Gary Campbell

[ixpressraf]

Thank you very much for sharing your experience.  Have you had to use the shim package to mount the CF at the correct focal plane?  If so, does this make moving the back from one camera platform to another more difficult?
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136907\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

 Hi,
No, I did not needed the shim Kit.
Shims are only nesessary when the focussing screen is not in the exact focal plane, mostly with older camera's or when your back is out of focus ( but this must be repaired by Hasselblad ). I use an old Leaf C-most Hassie V to mamiya RZ adapter ( wich i modified myself to make the C mount ixpress back fit) and that works fine.

[garycamp]

Dear Gary,

FYI: Sinar DOES trade-in! I don't know who has told you that, but we have an official trade-in price for ANY digital CCD sensor given/taken back (complete and in working condition). I would contact our distributor.

Best regards,
Thierry
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136846\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thanks.  I am probably incorrect then and just didn't discuss that enough with company I contacted since they represent both Hasselblad and Sinar I believe.  Perhaps it did not come up since I am really over my budget already and the Sinar adapters are slightly more expensive.  However, I will look further into the Sinar product line to be sure I get my facts straight.

Thanks again,
Gary Campbell

[garycamp]

Hi,
No, I did not needed the shim Kit.
Shims are only nesessary when the focussing screen is not in the exact focal plane, mostly with older camera's or when your back is out of focus ( but this must be repaired by Hasselblad ). I use an old Leaf C-most Hassie V to mamiya RZ adapter ( wich i modified myself to make the C mount ixpress back fit) and that works fine.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136910\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

That is great news and is making me feel a whole lot better about using adapters to get these cameras off the shelf.

I love my Canon cameras but it gets old using the same camera system all of the time and I really enjoy photographing with the MF cameras.  Not really a great reason to spend all the $$ but I am expecting a return via IQ as well.

[ixpressraf]

That is great news and is making me feel a whole lot better about using adapters to get these cameras off the shelf.

I love my Canon cameras but it gets old using the same camera system all of the time and I really enjoy photographing with the MF cameras.  Not really a great reason to spend all the $$ but I am expecting a return via IQ as well.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136912\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

The only camera i have that needs shimming is my DigiflexII wich is off calibration. I simply used some fine cut tin-foil sheets and within 20 minites it was perfectly sharp.

[yaya]

Thanks.  I am probably incorrect then and just didn't discuss that enough with company I contacted since they represent both Hasselblad and Sinar I believe.  Perhaps it did not come up since I am really over my budget already and the Sinar adapters are slightly more expensive.  However, I will look further into the Sinar product line to be sure I get my facts straight.

Thanks again,
Gary Campbell
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136911\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Better check your Leaf facts as well, we've always had trade-in paths, both for Leaf and non-Leaf backs.

Also, the Leaf backs do not require a one-shot cable as the chip is a lot quicker to reset and wake-up.

hope this helps

Y

[garycamp]

The only camera i have that needs shimming is my DigiflexII wich is off calibration. I simply used some fine cut tin-foil sheets and within 20 minites it was perfectly sharp.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136918\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

I expect to leave the CF on the Contax most of the time.  If there is a problem, I will have the camera's checked first and then order the shim kit if it persists.

I was concerned after searching the forum for "shim" and seeing comments...

"(Quote: Dustbak) I also found the distance tolerance of the back/camera combination is much more critical with the CF. I need to shim one of my cameras to get it to focus on the CCD. The same camera never had this problem with the Leaf back. [...] I do believe the problems I have encountered with the Hasselblad are due to the fact it is a CF which works with the adapter plates. Truly they are not so much problems but probably just me not knowing the quirks of the system yet."

"(Quote: SeanFS) I'm using a 132c with V series hasselblads. It works very well for me but did take a bit of messing about with the shim kit to get the focus operating correctly at first, and it seems to change depending on which V series camera used as I have tried it on a couple of other models[...]"

"(Quote: Steve Hendrix) Hasselblad and Sinar offer the option of shimming, although it appears there is less precision of the focus plane with those digital backs if for no other reason than the end user might tighten their camera plate screws a turn or so different than another end user, introducing a variable."

Well, you get the idea.  I would still prefer a fixed Contax mount and a Contax to RZ adapter plate but photography is all about trade offs so why should this be any different  

GC

[Dustbak]

Yep,

I need to shim one of my cameras, the DigiFlex II. I noticed IxpressRaf needed to do the same thing.

However my other DigiFlex II did not need the shimming, neither did my 503CW or my Flexbody.

[ixpressraf]

I expect to leave the CF on the Contax most of the time.  If there is a problem, I will have the camera's checked first and then order the shim kit if it persists.

I was concerned after searching the forum for "shim" and seeing comments...

"(Quote: Dustbak) I also found the distance tolerance of the back/camera combination is much more critical with the CF. I need to shim one of my cameras to get it to focus on the CCD. The same camera never had this problem with the Leaf back. [...] I do believe the problems I have encountered with the Hasselblad are due to the fact it is a CF which works with the adapter plates. Truly they are not so much problems but probably just me not knowing the quirks of the system yet."

"(Quote: SeanFS) I'm using a 132c with V series hasselblads. It works very well for me but did take a bit of messing about with the shim kit to get the focus operating correctly at first, and it seems to change depending on which V series camera used as I have tried it on a couple of other models[...]"

"(Quote: Steve Hendrix) Hasselblad and Sinar offer the option of shimming, although it appears there is less precision of the focus plane with those digital backs if for no other reason than the end user might tighten their camera plate screws a turn or so different than another end user, introducing a variable."

Well, you get the idea.  I would still prefer a fixed Contax mount and a Contax to RZ adapter plate but photography is all about trade offs so why should this be any different 

GC
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136935\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Nope, Dustback's digiflexII was also out of focus. Just as myself he has one wich is in focus and an other wich is out of focus. It has really nothing to do with the I-adapter. These adapters are manufactured within extreme small tolerances.
V series hasselblad are very often out of focus due to the primitive focussing screen system. ( wich goes back to the 19fifties in the past millenium  .
We only hear the horror stories about " The Shimming" but never the succes storries of thousends of happy ixpress users like myself. As mentioned in other posts i used a lot of digibacks but ended with Hasselblad because of the simple fact that i have almost all camera systems there are ( all bought very cheap on the net) available at this moment.

[garycamp]

Better check your Leaf facts as well, we've always had trade-in paths, both for Leaf and non-Leaf backs.

Also, the Leaf backs do not require a one-shot cable as the chip is a lot quicker to reset and wake-up.

hope this helps

Y
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136934\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thanks, it certainly does help.  I'll check again.

[garycamp]

[...] As mentioned in other posts i used a lot of digibacks but ended with Hasselblad because of the simple fact that i have almost all camera systems there are ( all bought very cheap on the net) available at this moment.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136941\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

   Thats great!!  I love a great photograph, mine or anyones, but I also love the camera's and lenses used to create them.  Since I turned to digital, I have shot almost no film.  I bought the Contax system because I had always wanted one but could not justify the expense (I used Pentax 645's) until they went on the used market (and before the recent upswing in prices).  There is a lot of fun to be had learning and putting together a system.  But I only shot a few rolls of film through the Contax before I started looking at MF digital backs.  I am hooked on the digital workflow and scanning just does not do it for me.

So anyway, I certainly see the joy of a MFDB that can be moved from system to system.  I always wanted to try the Rollie 6000's because of the glass and the Fuji GX680 because of the movements.  They are all magnificent camera's and there is a bunch of fun to be had collecting those systems from the used market then buying an adapter and shooting 22 mpix on them.

GC

[garycamp]

Yep,

I need to shim one of my cameras, the DigiFlex II. I noticed IxpressRaf needed to do the same thing.

However my other DigiFlex II did not need the shimming, neither did my 503CW or my Flexbody.
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136939\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Thank you very much for the additional information.  Its looking very CF'ish in my future  

[ixpressraf]

Thank you very much for the additional information.  Its looking very CF'ish in my future 
[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=136949\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]

Hello,
the fuji GX680 works perfect also. I have two model 1 bodys with a bunch of lenses. I only had to adapt the NiCad battery to accept normal 9 volts( 8,2) block batteries, but that only takes a few minutes.  Again i had an old leaf cantare to fuji adapter adapted to fit my imaco. Half an hour work and great results.