44" paper handling tips to avoid kinks?

[Ryan Mack]

I was using a roll of Epson semi-matte 260gsm 44" paper and had a hell of a time moving things around and de-rolling them. I ended up with visible kinks in the paper and plan to redo the project using Hahn Photo Silk 310 which is a lot stiffer. But I could definitely use some advice on how to not mess up the next set.

[dgberg]

We tell our clients, no handling period! We print, roll in a tube and ship and ask them to take directly to the framer.
As soon as someone inexperienced wants to unroll and view that print is in trouble. Heck even with my experience I have ruined more then a few. Thank goodness we don’t have to do that many. Sorry no earth shattering tips.

[Ryan Mack]

Ah, the good old "if you have to ask, you shouldn't be trying it" ;-)

Guess I need to go to my framer and see if they teach classes on paper handling.

[Richard.Wills]

Work out how you are going to handle the paper prior to taking off the printer. Plan how you are going to hold the print as it cuts, and the route from the printer to the table. Get to know how the paper wants to flow, and work with it.
Typically I tape prints to the wall to dry them - four tabs of tape about 3" long, with an end folded over to make removal easier. Top two pieces are already at the paper width, and they get put onto a leading edge on the paper. then the bottom two on a tailing edge. This gives me space to dry the paper, and gravity helps to reduce curl. If I'm not taping, I make sure there is a reasonably clear route to the cutting table.
It's all practice, working with the paper and accepting that it will eventually not kink to your will. You've got some practice pieces waiting to be revisited (unless you did what I do when kinking prints - mutter, curse and tear them to shreds). I almost never print full bleed 44", preferring to have handling borders.

[tharrington]

For my usual 40x40 and 42x56 prints I let the print hang in printer for a bit then initiate the cut sequence.  I grab the tail end of print (closest to cutter) at both corners being careful not to let the print drop in the basket.  I carry the print over to my table and drag the end I’m holding along the end of the table to the other side of the table…essentially a reverse waterfall. I then sleeve the print in 2mil clear bags from Uline.  Once sleeved, I use the tubes from previous paper rolls to de-curl the paper… I always start rolling it from the corner of the print (this reduces curl resistance as well as unintentional dings from your fingers- assuming the paper is rolled somewhat tight to the tube).  As I’m rolling it diagonally I slowly start to straighten the curl so that by the time I’m at the end of the print it is nearly straight.  Sometimes I will just hold the print in the position for 20 seconds or so and then roll the print back out flat if I need to trim the print, OR I will hold the print while removing the inner tube and then place it inside the shipping tube.  Usually, if you do this without cotton gloves the plastic sleeve won’t slip in your hand and the curved print will only ‘relax’ once it is inside the shipping tube.  I’ve been doing it this way for years with good success. I suppose if I was a high volume printer this wouldn’t be feasible, but in the end I believe it saves time. The paper I use is quite stiff at 350gsm and 14.6mil.  Hope some of these tips help you!  Good luck.

[Ryan Mack]

Cool, thank you. The idea of bagging before derolling and derolling from a corner instead of leading/trailing edge are both new ideas to me. Will give those a try, thank you!

[narikin]

Heavier paper kinks less easily than lighter paper. 240gsm is rather borderline. 280/300+ has much more resistance, although a few papers are just flat out trouble. Harmen by Hahnemuhle Gloss Baryta - I'm looking at you!

Floating a big print out of the printer and onto a table without any damage is something you learn how to do, after ages of faffing around.
A technique known as 'sledding' where the print comes out of the printer and slides direct down across a flat angled board is a nice trick.

fwiw: 'table tennis' tables are great for XL prints, light, flat, foldable, affordable.

[gkroeger]

Cool, thank you. The idea of bagging before derolling and derolling from a corner instead of leading/trailing edge are both new ideas to me. Will give those a try, thank you!

If you have to pick it up... pick it up by diagonally opposite corners. That's the best way to avoid kinks.