I'm arguing that there are times when it doesn't work best [Manual]; case in point - when you don't have time to deal with optimal exposure and must gamble, and both your subject and background will both have an opportunity to suddenly change by a few stops. Reading Edmund in context, my immediate impression was one of a situation where anything can pop up instantly, and you don't have time to mess around with all parameters of shooting, so something must be simplified and sacrificed, and a -1 EC in an AE mode is the chosen sacrifice.
And if the subject is back lit, then the exposure will be even more off than if say using neutral AE.
When you replied that you shoot manual, in that context, it seemed that you referred to one fixed manual setting, which included enough headroom for whites in the brightest light.
It'll be set to 'correctly' expose what I think I'll want in the situation/scene and usually unless the subject is very contre jour/in shadow one way and well lit the opposite way, that works very well.
if you are going to insist that you won't ever miss any opportunities while metering, I think you're probably overrating yourself. However good you are at manually adjusting exposure to meet a relatively immediate need, there is always a more immediate need that you won't be ready for, and I assume that was the context here.
I wasn't talking about metering to get exposure, I am talking about using a sensible/compromise manual exposure and then if I have to point the camera at something quickly, that is obviously different, I'll just spin shutter or aperture dial in the right direction by a guessed amount, safer than auto against a bark or bright background. It may not be perfect, but if you are shooting that fast, perfect exposure is really not the most important thing.
If you have to completely automate exposure, it may be safer to do so with -1 EC, which on cameras like the D3 and Canon mk3 cameras, is not a particularly big sacrifice at ISO 200s and 100, respectively.
-1EC is as I mention above, is useless if you are suddenly shooting contre jour, not unusual occurence either and less than optimum for recovery with RAW as well as it doesn't survive under exposure that well. Most people do not have a D3 or Mrk III camera either. Anyway I'd rather have a small camera thatn one of those monsters for street shooting. A GRD II with a D3 chip in it would be ideal.
I believe the D3 allows manual AV and Tv with auto-ISO, which is even better than AE, as you can keep the manual setting in a range of lighting.[a href=\"index.php?act=findpost&pid=165799\"][{POST_SNAPBACK}][/a]
It actually makes no difference as the RAW/JPEG exposure is still altered even though the shutter and aperture are fixed.