I use the HCam DRS shift adapter with a Fuji GFX 50S. (see
this thread further down on this page)
This adapter has a Canon EOS mount on the lens side, so unless you are using Canon lenses, an additional adapter is required.
It is not cheap, but extremely well made, shifts up to 15 mm, and is in a totally different league than for instance Kipon shift adapters.
I use a variety of lenses with it, some of them suffer from reduced left and right edge and corner sharpness, either because of field curvature, or because the image circle isn't big enough.
Topaz Sharpen AI does a great job of sharpening up the edges and corners. The Stabilize mode will add more sharpening to the less sharp areas of the image, and add less sharpening to areas that are already sharp.
Note that the maximum shift reported for each lens is vertical shift with horizontal format.
Canon 11-24mm f/4Modified by Hartblei (who make the adapter) – the lens hood and a baffle at the rear have been removed.
This lens does not have an aperture ring, so the aperture has to be set on a Canon camera, and then taking the lens off during a long exposure.
I have it permanently set to f/11, which is the aperture where the lens peforms best.
The lens can be used from around 15mm, and allows 10-15mm shift, depending on the focal length. Quite strong sharpness falloff at edges and corners, also when not using shift. Sharpening with Sharpen AI helps, but the results are not ideal. Works quite well with interiors, where everything is closer than infinity.
Samyang 24mm TS f/3.5Generally sharper than the Canon at 24mm, especially at the edges. It allows about 10mm shift, but shifted corners go soft after a few mm.
f/16 is required for best edge and corner sharpness.
Schneider PC Super Angulon 28mm f/2.8A little less sharp than the Samyang. Shifted corners quickly become darker, and start vignetting when shifting more than 7mm (at infinity).
There is a blue cast in shifted corners, and also strong falloff in sharpness.
f/16 is required for best edge and corner sharpness.
Pentax 645 D FA 645 35mm f/3.5This is an excellent lens, but there is a little falloff in edge sharpness at infinity. This lens seems to be very sensitive to the adapter used. Some (like Fotodiox or Kipon) will make the edge sharpness worse. At present I'm using a cheap no name Chinese adapter which doesn't fit well, but it still gives me the best edge sharpness.
12 mm shift is possible with sharp corners.
Pentax 645 FA 45-85mm f/4.5This a very impressive zoom lens. Almost as sharp as the 35, but left and right edges are a little less sharp.
The lens performs equally well at all focal lengths.
The image circle isn't all that big, 5mm shift works out well, and up to 10mm if the corners are closer than infinity.
I have only tested shifting at 45mm, but the lens has a larger image circle between approximately 50 and 70mm.
Contax Distagon 45 f/2.8The aperture has to be set with a Contax camera, or an (expensive) adapter.
About 12mm shift is possible with sharp corners. However, edge sharpness is not good, and the lens also has problems rendering fine detail in some situations.
I much prefer the Pentax 45-85.
Mamiya 645 80mm f/1.9 CSlightly less sharp than the 80mm macro, especially at the edges, and at close range.
12mm shift is possible. I have not tested shifted corner sharpness, but would expect it to be good.
Mamiya 645 80mm Macro f/4 CThis lens is extremely sharp. I'd say it's as good as my Fuji GF 45mm.
Sharp across the frame, The image circle is huge, and 15mm shift is possible, with a little reduced sharpness and slight vignetting in the extreme corners at 15mm.
Mamiya 645 110mm f/2.8 CSame as above, but it's not quite as sharp as the 80mm.
Mamiya 645 150mm f/3,5 NA little less sharp than the 110, but still very good. Sharp across the frame, Around 10mm shift is possible.
Mamiya 645 210mm f/4 CA little less sharp than the 150, but still good, and well within what I consider acceptable. Sharp across the frame, Around 5mm shift is possible.
