Best Mirrorless for extreme low light?

[wallpaperviking]

Hi,
     I have a project where I am shooting in extreme low light and I intend to hook the camera up to an external monitor, due to the awkward positioning of it.   Was just wondering what camera you guys would suggest for getting the best image on the rear LCD (which then feeds to the external monitor). 

I currently have a Fuji GFX 50S and this struggles a little bit for this purpose.  Even when I crank the ISO or the shutter speed to get an image, it is sort of flickery and extremely hard to manual focus.

I have heard the Sony A7S series lets people see more than they can with the naked eye.  Would this be the way to go? 

It is only 12 mpx which might be an issue, is there something that gives similar results but in a higher mpx count?

It is mainly about focusing and viewing, obviously I can use a slower shutter speed when actually capturing the image.

Thanks so much in advance, look forward to hearing any suggestions..

[mcbroomf]

A couple of questions;

Do you need AF or can you use manual focus?
What focal length are you using, and
What DOF requirements are there (eg can you use an F1.2 lens WO?)
Can you use a flashlight to focus (manually) on the scene before taaking the image.

[wallpaperviking]

A couple of questions;

Do you need AF or can you use manual focus?
What focal length are you using, and
What DOF requirements are there (eg can you use an F1.2 lens WO?)
Can you use a flashlight to focus (manually) on the scene before taaking the image.

Hi Mike,
             Thanks for the reply back, much appreciated! 

It is manual focus only.  Am using older medium format lenses, focal length is either 35mm or 50mm on the GFX 50S, both being shifted 12-15mm of front rise..  So wider for 35mm systems (28 - 40mm or so). 

No, I cannot use a flashlight manually on the scene to take the image.  Also, taking a shot and then reviewing it to understand composition is not really practical either. 

What is the live view feed on the LCD normally based of?  Is it necessarily related to lower mpx count or are there are a number of things occurring here?

Thanks again!

[mcbroomf]

Well I suppose the camera CPU is doing a real time RGB conversion of the data from the sensor to display the scene, and for dark scenes it must be amplifying the data (a lot) in order to enable you to see it, thereby creating noise.  The EVF are all lower mp than the sensor but I don't know how any averaging or binning is done, especially between brands.

Unfortunately you need to be able to compare cameras side by side which I can't help with (I only have a Sony and not the A7s)

[kirkt]

Perhaps you can try to monitor the HDMI signal from the 50s - maybe this will give you a more usable signal from which to focus, etc.  If it does, then a portable display like a SmallHD or similar unit might be helpful.  The SmallHD units have a bunch of built-in aids, like focus peaking, etc., that will give you feedback while you are adjusting focus.  You may also be able to load a LUT into the display memory that will help visualize the scene for purposes of working in lower light, etc.

You may be able to zone focus and use an ultrasonic rangefinder to measure the distance to your subject in the dark without emitting any visible light onto the target (like the Polaroid Autofocus 660 Land Camera used to autofocus!).  Given that you probably are shooting wide open aperture, this approach may not be precise or accurate enough with a potentially shallow DOF.  If you are handy and like projects, here is an Arduino set up:

https://www.circuitbasics.com/how-to-set-up-an-ultrasonic-range-finder-on-an-arduino/

The Leica M monochrome cameras are known for being able to "see in the dark" as well.  If you really need to increase the light gathering capability of your 50s, you can have it converted to monochrome:

https://www.maxmax.com/shopper/category/9510-fuji-monochrome

it ain't cheap.

Kirk

[wallpaperviking]

Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated!

In mirrorless cameras, the EVF is generally better quality than the LCD right?

The HDMI feed to an external monitor from these cameras is taking the quality of the LCD and letting it be viewed on an external monitor right?  I have tried this on a cheap Feelworld FW760 and it works but the quality isn't any better..  Just lets me view the image in a much less awkward angle. 

The same pretty much would apply to even a higher end monitor right?  It can only be as good as the LCD screen it is copying?

Thanks again!