What is the best camera to use with mf lenses?

[henrikfoto]

But it there any point to get the A7r3 or is the A7r2 just as good to use with manual lenses?

[mcbroomf]

Image quality they will be the same but the 3 is better in many ways over the 2 and you would have to decide,.  I am happy I upgraded.  I suggest you read reviews of both on dpreview, and then handle both and the z7 if possible.

[hogloff]

But it there any point to get the A7r3 or is the A7r2 just as good to use with manual lenses?

The 3 has a higher resolution viewfinder which helps with manual focus. That said, I have no problems manually focusing with the 2.

[henrikfoto]

Thank you all! 
But the manual focus assist ot focus peak is the same with the A7r2 and A7r3?

[Fraktal]

Today i made a dirty test using a 70-200 E 2.8 Nikon Zoom with FTZ-Adaptor on a Z7 and with the Commlite Adaptor on the A7RM2 and 3. I attached an 10 stop ND Filter to the lens and shot my bookshelf with artifical lighting only. An exposuretime of 30 seconds at 2.8  gave a underexposure of 1/2 stop on all three cameras at iso 100. The difference was, that the nikon showed absolutely nothing in the viewfinder or display. The brightness of the display was at the maximum  (i could crank up iso but still nothing to see) the resulting picture though was ok. The Sonys could be focused! For most of us this may be irrelevant but for me it is not. It reflects clearly my experiencies from the past months with sunrise timelaps photography. Wether this is relevant for your photography or not only you can deside.
Cheers,

[henrikfoto]

This is very interesting!
But did you see any differences between the
A7r2 and A7r3 ?

[Fraktal]

This is very interesting!
But did you see any differences between the
A7r2 and A7r3 ?

No, i did not and this was a suprise for me.
Cheers,

[kers]

The difference was, that the nikon showed absolutely nothing in the viewfinder or display. The brightness of the display was at the maximum  (i could crank up iso but still nothing to see) the resulting picture though was ok. The Sonys could be focused! ...

So the exposure of the photo made with the Nikon was good, but you could not see a thing in the OVF.. That is bad.
Let's hope the new firmware released on the 16th of may will address that problem.

[Rob C]

Unless the OP is also still using the bodies originally used with those old lenses, it may be a better - if momentarily painful choice - to cut loose and dump the old stuff completely and settle on a single new system.

I have a mixture of old and new Nikkors, like them all, but eyesight is rendering the manual ones bloody difficult to operate as easily as I could. The Nikon bodies have a focus assist light, but it's not good having to swap attention from image to little light outwith the pic; a light within the pic would be even worse unless tiny, and in the centre as was the split-image wedge with which we all coped perfectly well.

Personally, I dislike complicated systems.

[Fraktal]

So the exposure of the photo made with the Nikon was good, but you could not see a thing in the OVF.. That is bad.
Let's hope the new firmware released on the 16th of may will address that problem.

Exactly, yes but i have to stress the extremely low light situation when this happens. If you don‘t shoot very very early in the morning or evening the viewfinder and display of the Nikon Z7 will be good but not as good as the Sony ( by the way, even the very old A7R is not complety dark as the Z7)
Cheers,

[henrikfoto]

This is very interesting, but what about the
final image Nikon against Sony?

[Fraktal]

His is very interesting, but what about the
final image Nikon against Sony?

I use Capture 1 and the Nikon files need less editing. The same is true for the D810. Very often only the tiniest tweeking is necessary to get what i want. Sony needs a little more of this and that but in the end Sony delivers as well. Both systems offer much more than i am able to take.
Cheers,

[Doug Peterson]

All these suggestions are boring! Clearly the answer is a Phase One IQ4 150mp.

- Great ES, live view, live raw histogram, and live focus peaking means it can be used on a tech body with literally any lens, since you don't need a body shutter or control of the leaf shutter in the lens
- Best dynamic range of any camera available
- Very very good color, especially when paired with Capture One since the camera and software are both made by the same team
- Up to 150 mp for those lenses that cover the full 645 sensor and have enough sharpness to justify it, optional 38 megapixel reduced-res raw file for when using a lens with big buttery bokeh but not much absolute resolving power.
- Great native body/lens options for when you want modern performance rather than to use your legacy lenses

Needless to say this isn't the least expensive option. But it is the best camera to use with MF lenses!

[kers]

All these suggestions are boring! Clearly the answer is a Phase One IQ4 150mp
...
Needless to say this isn't the least expensive option. But it is the best camera to use with MF lenses!

Needles to say that not everything costing less than a POIQ150 is boring...
and best for one does not mean best for all...

Boring for me is spending limitless amounts of money to get ... " the Best!"

[D Fuller]

Today i made a dirty test using a 70-200 E 2.8 Nikon Zoom with FTZ-Adaptor on a Z7 and with the Commlite Adaptor on the A7RM2 and 3. I attached an 10 stop ND Filter to the lens and shot my bookshelf with artifical lighting only. An exposuretime of 30 seconds at 2.8  gave a underexposure of 1/2 stop on all three cameras at iso 100. The difference was, that the nikon showed absolutely nothing in the viewfinder or display. The brightness of the display was at the maximum  (i could crank up iso but still nothing to see) the resulting picture though was ok. The Sonys could be focused! For most of us this may be irrelevant but for me it is not. It reflects clearly my experiencies from the past months with sunrise timelaps photography. Wether this is relevant for your photography or not only you can deside.
Cheers,

If this is the case, I wonder if you had the D8 setting “show exposure settings the viewfinder” on or off?

[Fraktal]

If this is the case, I wonder if you had the D8 setting “show exposure settings the viewfinder” on or off?

Yes, i tried on and off...same result,
Cheers,

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi,

That would be the case with lenses designed for rangefinder cameras, but no real problem with lenses designed for SLRs.

The Nikon Z7 has pretty thin cover glass, so that may be an advantage over the Sony A7rIII.

Good point!

Best regards
Erik

I use the Sony a7Rii with Leica M lenses.  Be sure to look at whether you should have the KoloriVision Ultra Thin cover glass modification.  My Leica M glass was made for film.  The Sony, like most digital cameras, has a rather thick cover-glass over the sensor.  This will cause curvature of field, particularly with wide angle lenses.  The KoloriVision modification gets rid of that.  The OEM Sony lenses, of course, were designed for the thick cover-glass.  So, one has to make a decision as to what set/type of lenses you want to use.  This issue affects all of my lenses shorter than 90 mm.  Above that it doesn't matter.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

[TimoK]

Leica M lenses are different story.
But are there any visible effects of thinner or thicker sensor cover glass when using MF lenses?
Or different place of cover glass like in GFX?

[Lightsmith]

Many of the old lenses will have problems with CA with digital cameras which is why Nikon for example produced new lenses that it introduced at the same time as it released the D3 12MP camera. I would want a camera with the Live View capability and a lens that had a correction profile available from DXO or whatever application I used for RAW file conversions.

This is a good source for information on old Nikon lenses when used with 35mm film and with digital sensor cameras:

http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html

[sarrasani]

for sensor quality: Sigma sd quattro h.
for other aspects (many more lenses accepted and not only) Sony 24X36, Panasonic and also Fuji.
Mirrorless, obvious, if you want to focus accurately with magnification....
All the best,
sandro