To posters re: the rear LCD on an H4D/H5D showing say too magenta too green an image - there is an easy fix.
It's pretty well known that the older pre-H6 LCDs where not exactly perfect WB. While purely a 'cosmetic' issue, being picky, it drove me nuts when reviewing shots on the rear LCD when we acquired our first H5D.
The issue is that the Tint aspect of WB cannot be set in H4/5 cameras, only Temp. Tint is only adjusted in the camera when a custom WB is done. You can play with the on camera WB settings & K temps all day and while the RAW files will obviously be fine and the LCD get warmer/cooler, it will/may still show an 'off' magenta/green Tint.
The solution is too simply bias the jpeg tint used by the camera (for previews) to dial-in the rear LCD:
Get some low-value (e.g. 1/8) Green, Magenta, CTO and CTB gels and cut in the shape of a small grey card (say 4x6").
Then periodically shoot a daylight (or tungsten, etc) custom WB -with just the bare grey card (takes 5 sec on an H series).
If the LCD shows too magenta, clip 1-2 sheets of 1/8 magenta to the grey card (too add green) and re-shoot the WB to get the rear LCD how you like it/how it shows reality.
You can thus add a mix of gels to the bare card to fine tune the WB of the LCD as you see fit.
Once done, save it under a custom profile and use for as long as desired.
We keep 1-2 daylight/flash and tungsten profiles saved in camera at any time and load the applicable one when shooting. We just keep a small card & its' gels in a Ziploc in our case should we need it. The layers used in the last daylight WB are kept clipped to the card as a reference while the rest sit free in the bag.
Obviously, since this only adjusts the JPG 'formula' used for screen preview (and obviously any saved jpegs), it does squat to the RAW files and they can be adjusted in Phocus, etc., as usual.