Q) What would you recommend for wood, like pre-finished birch?
A) Mount Smart Gold would be a good choice but it depends on what the wood was finished with. I recommend dewaxed shellac, but as long as the finish is cured lacquer and urethane finishes are ok too. It never hurts to give it a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper first.
Q) And how much for a 43"x150' roll shipped to 55975 Minnesota?
A) I'll msg you the roll price. Five years from now when someone reads this I don't want them to think it is still the same.
Q) Would gold work for Styrene, Sintra or Acrylic?
A) Yes.
Since HDPE doesn't work I am now researching an alternative, hopefully one I can source locally. I liked the HDPE because it was $60 .25"x4'x8' sheet and black
I know of acrylic locally but not Styrene or Sintra, not exactly sure if Sintra a PVC foam core would work for what I am doing.
Q) So far by hand along with hand roller I have been happy with results to 24"x48". I did a larger one using the method I was doing for 24"x48" and no good got kinks in the print. So I am looking at a manual roller set up 51" wide as I am able to print to 44" wide, something like this
https://www.amazon.com/OrangeA-Laminator-Laminating-Machine-Roller/dp/B016VY2E7K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526264594&sr=8-1&keywords=51%22+laminator&dpID=41ZiUcRT4NL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch A) I highly recommend a mechanical means of applying the adhesive and print. The process used for Super77 will not work with film PSA.
Q) I have been going for the no frame look. Here is a 24"x48" on birch plywood with the back frame recessed 2" from edge. Image is mounted and I have it layed flat with weight on top while adhesive cures, then trim edges flush to backing.
A) Once applied there should be no need to use the weights, the curing process happens over time, but the initial tack is more than adequate to keep the print in place. With Super77 you are actually waiting for it to dry.