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Author Topic: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper  (Read 4193 times)

shadowblade

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Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« on: December 19, 2017, 10:07:57 pm »

I just visited Breathing Color's website for the first time in a while and noticed the (relatively) new Signa Smooth paper. Given that Pura Smooth is my normal smooth matte paper, I tried to find out a bit more about it to see if it's an improvement.

I couldn't find very much on Google about it, apart from Martin Bailey's review. He seems to like it, but I'm wondering if anyone else has used it, and how it compares to Pura Smooth and Optica.

Any experiences here?
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Mark Lindquist

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2017, 10:26:55 am »

Hmmmm.  It’s a lot of paper for the money, that’s for sure.  I noticed it recently as well, when I bought a roll of Bagasse to try out.  It wasn’t in the sample pack I recently got.

Hard to imagine anything better than Pura Smooth in their aqueous paper lineup though.



 


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shadowblade

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2017, 03:22:45 pm »

It has been measured as having a higher and slightly more neutral white point and a wider gamut.

I'd imagine longevity should be about the same, given that it is likely to use the same coating. And Breathing Color's coating is pretty much best-in-class, with Lyve testing better than just about any other canvas with the same inkset, and colour shifts and fading in Optica and Elegance Velvet largely due to OBA burnout rather than ink changes (you can see this in the numbers for each individual patch). Pity that there's been no testing done on Pura Smooth/Velvet, Bagasse or Signa yet.
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Mark Lindquist

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2017, 09:41:04 pm »

It has been measured as having a higher and slightly more neutral white point and a wider gamut.

I'd imagine longevity should be about the same, given that it is likely to use the same coating. And Breathing Color's coating is pretty much best-in-class, with Lyve testing better than just about any other canvas with the same inkset, and colour shifts and fading in Optica and Elegance Velvet largely due to OBA burnout rather than ink changes (you can see this in the numbers for each individual patch). Pity that there's been no testing done on Pura Smooth/Velvet, Bagasse or Signa yet.

Yeah.  Testing is so important. Surprised they haven't sent rolls to Aardenburg.  Unless they don't want to know the results....

A lot of claims with these papers, but not a whole lot to back it up really.  I don't see any published results - the "certificates" don't mean that much to me.

Have you tried Moab Entrada Natural 300 gsm?  It's an awesome paper.

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shadowblade

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2017, 03:40:10 am »

Yeah.  Testing is so important. Surprised they haven't sent rolls to Aardenburg.  Unless they don't want to know the results....

A lot of claims with these papers, but not a whole lot to back it up really.  I don't see any published results - the "certificates" don't mean that much to me.

Have you tried Moab Entrada Natural 300 gsm?  It's an awesome paper.

I don't think too many manufacturers have sent samples to Aardenburg. Actually, it's probably not the paper or the samples - it's the funding to test it. They all seem to send it to Wilhelm.

Yes, I've tried the Entrada. It also tested very well on Aardenburg - it's the best-testing paper, either matte or glossy, with Ultrachrome K3 (and that's a lot of papers). Although, looking at the results for Lyve, Elegence Velvet and Optica One, I'd expect Pura Smooth (and all the other newer OBA-free papers from BC) to perform even better than Entrada - Lyve (OBA-free) demonstrates remarkable consistency between the worst patches and the average, the average scores for all three (diluting out the negative effect of those lighter patches badly affected by OBA burnout) cross the 90% threshold around the 110 Mlux-hour mark (all within expected variation from each other, so their performance there is functionally identical) and all three maintain average scores at 100 Mlux-hours which are slightly better than those for Entrada. There's not much reason to believe that the Pura papers have a receptive coating significantly different from that of Lyve, or that of the two older, OBA-containing papers. Given that relative results between papers appear to be quite consistent between inksets (i.e. if Paper A performs better than Paper B with Inkset X, then it also tends to perform better with Inkset Y or Z, regardless of the relative lightfastness of each inkset), this probably also holds true with the HP, Canon and new Epson inksets.

Entrada, like the Breathing Color papers, also soaks up Timeless like a sponge - another plus when you're trying to make a product that's physically durable as well as just lightfast. The Canson papers seem to be particularly bad at this - Timeless just sits on the surface, barely soaking in, and can be easily peeled off when dry. It's a huge pity that paper is as flimsy as it is - the glass it usually needs to sit behind almost ruins the effect created by any surface texture (or other surface characteristics) and renders pointless the fact that paper prints are usually sharper than any other type of print.
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Mark Lindquist

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2017, 02:47:40 pm »

I don't think too many manufacturers have sent samples to Aardenburg. Actually, it's probably not the paper or the samples - it's the funding to test it. They all seem to send it to Wilhelm.


Probably because Aardenburg does not accept any form of corporate sponsorship, grants, or corporate funding of any kind in order to publish totally unbiased results.  Any paper company sending paper to Aardenburg runs the risk that their paper test results could come back seriously negative from expected projections.  Additionally, testing standards vary widely between the "Big 3" testing entities.  Outdated testing technologies based on ISO standards which have not been updated to the i* methodology used by Aardenburg are less than stellar IMHO.
Densitometric vs Colormetric approaches vary vastly as do the core philosophies which take into consideration the ink/paper combinations including environmental conditions.  Funding is an issue, particularly as all test results from Aardenburg are published per schedule, routinely, and never withheld for "strategizing" if you will, to potentially eek out better numbers, or different outcomes which could favor manufacturers.  The irony is that Aardenburg is the photographer's best friend, yet many who are interested in the results, are happy to receive the information, and make informed decisions based on Aardenburg testing, don't consider it a priority to support the very process that gives them this critical information. Seems like a "Catch 22" actually.  Test these papers, give us the results, but we won't contribute.  Never have understood that.

If each photographer/printer gave $5-$10 bucks or more, annually, who subscribe and use the service, it could make a huge difference.  Just saying.

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Mark Lindquist

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2017, 03:20:57 pm »

Also, even Wilhelm is testing a measely and totally inadequate number of printer/ink/media combinations in recent years. The manufacturers have won the day. They control what gets published and what doesn’t with WIR, and they don’t acknowledge Aardenburg even exists.

Go figure.
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deanwork

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2017, 04:03:24 pm »

I think we should all start a kickstarter grant for Aardenburg the first of the year and set a big goal. This is exactly what kickstarter was designed for . A lot of us might not have a couple of hundred bucks but surely we can come up with $30.00-$40.00 each annually. Some can do a lot more  some a little less .

As to papers I am sick and tired of paying hahnemuhle and Canson prices . Especially when Canson (and Epson clones) are giving me a totally Fked dmax now. My HPZ dmax has dropped from 1.8 on it to 1.7, my Canon dmax from 1.68 to 1. 59 ! and Piezography Carbon from 1.67 to 1.59. Granted I don't have the latest MK inks for my Canon or piezography printers and I will switch to the new Cone MK,  but what's happening with the Z3200 shows just how sucky Canson and the Epson Legacy Fiber coating has become. That happened right after Epson made that deal with them. They are way way way over priced for a product that is getting worse not better.

I just tested Moab Entrada and I'm going there for smooth rag matte. The original Entrada flaked badly but not any more. I've also been testing the Inkpress rag papers that are a whole lot cheaper than Canson and much to my surprise are rated by Wilhelm even higher than Canson which were the best ratings of all. Both their cooltone and warmtone are holding up extremely well though I'm always suspicious of Wilhelms habit of ignoring oba fade out factor and the inkpress cooltone does have some. Warmtone none.

I'm going to test the Breathing Color papers next. Lexjet has some nice papers and canvas made by Frederick  but nobody has tested them and the prices are too close to Canson and Hahnemühle for me to go to them.

I'm very interested in the inkpress rags and they are like $100.00 a roll less than what I have been using. For me that is a lot of money coming out of my pocket. I haven't printed on them enough to evaluate the coating throughly but the 8x10s I've done today look very nice. Is anyone using inkpress rag? They are also dual sided that is nice for books.

John




Also, even Wilhelm is testing a measely and totally inadequate number of printer/ink/media combinations in recent years. The manufacturers have won the day. They control what gets published and what doesn’t with WIR, and they don’t acknowledge Aardenburg even exists.

Go figure.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2017, 09:17:09 am by deanwork »
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Mark Lindquist

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2017, 09:18:58 pm »

I think we should all start a kickstarter grant for Aardenburg the first of the year and set a big goal. This is exactly what kickstarter was designed for . A lot of us might not have a couple of hundred bucks but surely we can come up with $30.00-$40.00 each annually. Some can do a lot more  some a little less .

John

Great idea.  I’m in!

Mark
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mearussi

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2017, 12:29:15 am »

Mark already runs a kick starter of sorts when he advertises that he needs funding for a specific printer, like he did for the Epson P600 ink set. Just not enough photographers are contributing. But if you can come up with a better way to generate contributions that would be great as there are a lot of printer/paper tests I'm sure we'd all like to see get done.
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shadowblade

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #10 on: December 22, 2017, 11:47:02 am »

I think we should all start a kickstarter grant for Aardenburg the first of the year and set a big goal. This is exactly what kickstarter was designed for . A lot of us might not have a couple of hundred bucks but surely we can come up with $30.00-$40.00 each annually. Some can do a lot more  some a little less .

Isn't the time limit for Kickstarter funding quite limited? More for funding a single project than providing ongoing funds for ongoing testing.

Although this could be circumvented by setting up each paper or each inkset as a separate project, with 'stretch' goals being either future tests, or extra tests with the same paper (e.g. testing it with several different inksets).

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As to papers I am sick and tired of paying hahnemuhle and Canson prices . Especially when Canson (and Epson clones) are giving me a totally Fked dmax now. My HPZ dmax has dropped from 1.8 on it to 1.7, my Canon dmax from 1.68 to 1. 59 ! and Piezography Carbon from 1.67 to 1.59. Granted I don't have the latest MK inks for my Canon or piezography printers and I will switch to the new Cone MK,  but what's happening with the Z3200 shows just how sucky Canson and the Epson Legacy Fiber coating has become. That happened right after Epson made that deal with them. They are way way way over priced for a product that is getting worse not better.

Is that with re-profiling, or with the same profiles?

I just wish Piezography would release their Carbon. And perhaps a neutralised carbon inkset, or even a cool carbon inkset - mostly carbon, with a small amount of equally long-lived blue pigment to cool the tone. Most likely a stable inorganic pigment - say, Cobalt Blue, or some kind of CICP. There are plenty of them, particularly since you're just trying to neutralise the warm carbon rather than create the most saturated blue ink possible.

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I just tested Moab Entrada and I'm going there for smooth rag matte. The original Entrada flaked badly but not any more. I've also been testing the Inkpress rag papers that are a whole lot cheaper than Canson and much to my surprise are rated by Wilhelm even higher than Canson which were the best ratings of all. Both their cooltone and warmtone are holding up extremely well though I'm always suspicious of Wilhelms habit of ignoring oba fade out factor and the inkpress cooltone does have some. Warmtone none.

I'm going to test the Breathing Color papers next. Lexjet has some nice papers and canvas made by Frederick  but nobody has tested them and the prices are too close to Canson and Hahnemühle for me to go to them.

I liked the output on the Entrada - it's a good 'neutral' matte paper, similar to Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl, Pura White, Canson Rag Photographique and other smooth matte papers, with not much to distinguish itself visually from other similar papers. An image printed on one looks much the same as the same image printed on another. But that's not a bad thing, and, unlike some other similar-looking papers, Entrada also has a very high tested print permanence. And, for me, just as importantly, it has the ability to accept a good soaking of Timeless.

Have you tried using Lyve for a matted and framed, but glassless, display? It works remarkably well - it has a distinct look to it that works well with many images, and, as a canvas, holds up a lot better with a glassless display than paper. It even opens up some options for art reproduction prints and mixed media works, with an artist painting texture over the printed image using Timeless.

I do wish they'd bring out a finer-woven version of Lyve, though, or one with a smoother coating that hides the underlying fabric texture to a greater degree - a bit like a 'hot press' canvas media, as opposed to the Timeless 'cold press' version. Or even just an archival film of some sort, made from a UV-stable polymer base.
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shadowblade

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #11 on: December 22, 2017, 12:30:18 pm »

Mark already runs a kick starter of sorts when he advertises that he needs funding for a specific printer, like he did for the Epson P600 ink set. Just not enough photographers are contributing. But if you can come up with a better way to generate contributions that would be great as there are a lot of printer/paper tests I'm sure we'd all like to see get done.

You can make much better use of limited resources by testing papers and inks in a logical fashion, rather than an ad hoc selection as has been tested up until now.

We know that some inks have better longevity than others (roughly Ultrachrome K3 < Ultrachrome HDR = Lucia (original version for x100-series printers) < Ultrachrome HD (and likely Ultrachrome HDX) < Lucia EX < Vivera). And this order generally holds true no matter what paper you print it on - some papers will exhibit greater print longevity than others, but, on any given paper, you can expect Lucia EX to outperform Ultrachrome HDR, for example.

Conversely, we also know that, when one paper outperforms another, it tends to outperform that other paper no matter which inkset is being used. If Paper A scores better than Paper B when both are printed with Vivera, it is also probably going to score better when both are printed with Ultrachrome K3, although the absolute performance with the Vivera will be better than with the K3.

We also need to consider what the most relevant information we seek to gain from testing is. Certainly, it would be nice to know the exact performance of each paper/ink combination. But that would require testing every single combination, which is expensive and impractical, and may not even be applicable to a particular image (if most of your images use little yellow ink, K3 and HDR's weakness may not mean all that much).

Therefore, what testing is really trying to achieve is the development of a ranking table - one for papers and one for inksets. A list of papers, from best to worse, which can then be selected from, as well as a list of inksets, from longest-lasting to shortest-lasting.

Using this, it is possible to come up with a much better regime for testing than an ad hoc mix of random samples which are difficult to compare with each other. It requires two things:

1. Each paper needs to be tested against a single, standard inkset. This allows performance of papers to be directly compared - unlike, say, 'Paper A gets 113 Mlux-hrs with Vivera, while Paper B gets 67 Mlux-hrs with Ultrachrome HDR', where you still don't know which one performs better. I would suggest Ultrachrome K3 as the standard, since it's fairly universal and, as a faster-fading inkset, will produce results more quickly. If a second inkset were to be added, I'd probably use Vivera, in order to get an idea of the maximum expected performance.

2. Each new inkset needs to be tested on a number of standard papers, allowing performance to be compared directly against other inksets. I'd suggest Hahnemuhle Photo Rag 308gsm as a baseline, since it's a fairly universal paper that's been around for a long time and has been extensively tested. To that, I'd probably also add Lyve (canvas) and either IGFS or Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl, for a variety of test surfaces.

With these two setups, you'd then be able to generate a list of papers from best to worst, as well as inksets from best to worst (longevity-wise), then make an informed choice from among them, based on longevity and other criteria. Further tests of random combinations could be added if they were done, and would be useful to corroborate the results, but would not be strictly necessary.
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shadowblade

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2017, 01:58:11 am »

Quote from: deanwork
Actually that is not always true. Hahnemühle Photorag 308 on the tests I sent in did exceptionally well with Vivera inks and fared horribly with Cones neutral inks ( as with some other papers). While recent tests of the k7 neutrals look like they may very well reach a level of 75 years in daylight with Canson Rag Photo and that is not with a spray coating or uv glass. So If I had had the sense and the money to send n samples of the Canson media and Entrada ith those inks as well as the Vivera  I would have gotten a lot better results with both.

I think black-and-white - particularly those made using true monochrome inksets, rather than dithered colour inks - need to be treated differently, with different, and perhaps more, sets of numbers. This is because of the different elements that comprise fading, that tend to behave very differently from each other in monochrome inks.

Look at the full results for Cone Neutral with the Hahnemuhle Photo Rag and Canson Rag Photographique. If you just look at the 'quick' results - the lower and upper limit CDR numbers - the Hahnemuhle looks much worse. But these are essentially 'threshold' results - the point at which the curve passes below a certain level. What they don't tell you is that the Hahnemuhle, instead of fading away quickly once it has crossed the threshold, pretty much sits at a constant level just below the threshold. The Canson does the same thing, only that it sits just above the threshold instead of crossing it. If you look at the I*tone values, the Hahnemuhle's numbers at 140 Mlux-hrs are actually better than those of the Canson at 110 Mlux-hrs. In other words, the inkset is clearly not losing density.

This is likely because there are three major elements involved in the fading of black-and-white prints. Firstly, there is colour shift in the paper itself - probably responsible for the bulk of colour shifts in prints made from black inks (as opposed to dithered colour inks), and the reason why pure carbon inksets 'fade' at all. Secondly, there is the gradual fading of the colour pigments used to tone (generally cool) the carbon - this behaves much as the pigments in colour ink. Thirdly, there is the carbon pigment itself (the bulk solid component of all black inks). This part doesn't fade or shift colour.

You can see this in the graphs of tone/colour shift vs time. Both the Canson and the Hahnemuhle dip sharply initially, representing the colour shift in the paper. The difference - and what likely accounts for the different apparent performance in the 'quick' numbers - is that the Canson stabilises just above the cutoff threshold, whereas the Hahnemuhle stabilises just below it. This causes the Canson to appear to have much greater longevity with the inkset than the Hahnemuhle, when, in fact, it doesn't - it just stabilises at a lower degree of colour change than the Hahnemuhle. This may be due to the presence of OBAs in the Hahnemuhle paper, but that's speculation for the moment - it could be almost any other aspect of the paper that causes it to shift more before stabilising. In fact, it appears that the Hahnemuhle may do a better job of holding onto, and protecting, the ink compared to the Canson - both display low degrees of density loss, but the Hahnemuhle appears to lose less.

So, I wouldn't say that the Hahnemuhle fades more than the Canson. If anything, it is slightly the reverse (as it is with colour prints). Just that the Hahnemuhle stabilises at a level of colour shift that's slightly greater than the level of shift the Canson stabilises at - most likely because the paper base shifts more than the Canson, as the OBAs fade.

This is less of an issue with measurements for colour prints, since every aspect gradually fades and prints do not really reach a plateau - at least not until they are so faded and colour-shifted that they are essentially lost.

Quote
If I had known that 8 years ago I would have been using the K7 neutral inks instead of pulling them and using the k7 carbon sepia that hardly any of my clients want. Now it looks like I am going to use the neutrals again with uv coating and their new darker mk black with Canson matte media. The printe is sitting there with carbon in it for years hardly ever getting used.

Have you tried running carbon on Silverada canvas or Moab Slickrock? Or even something like Harman Gloss FB? The results are spectacular.

You can do a lot of things once you have an inkset where you can print on anything without having to worry about pigment longevity.

I'm still waiting for plasmonic inks to make their way into inkjet printing. These are dependent on particle shape and size, rather than composition, for their colour, so can be made of inert materials that essentially don't fade. They would solve ink longevity issues once and for all.

Quote
I have been trying to get Jon to develop the neutral set toning with blue or a better magenta for nearly 10 years after we saw Marks tests. If they had done that they would have sold a huge amount of the product and it would be the de facto standard monochrome ink in the world. They are more interested in this dual quad "pro2" set which I have no need of for split toning.

That would be the ideal. Carbon for density, mixed with a small amount of blue pigment for neutral black, or a bit more blue pigment for cool black. You could then split-tone it as per normal, or even make a variable split-tone by running warm and cool inksets simultaneously, to be split-toned via software operating the printer.

Many mineral pigments essentially don't fade - carbon isn't the only one. They don't tend to be as strongly coloured as organic pigments, but that's not a problem when you're just trying to neutralise carbon black, not create an inkset with as much gamut as possible. The best neutral black ink isn't going to be carbon mixed with a normal colour ink - it will be carbon mixed with a mineral pigment, specifically chosen to neutralise the warm carbon and last as long as possible, rather than being chosen simply because it's the same blue being used in the colour inkset.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure that print longevity is Jon Cone's area of interest, or even a prime consideration. So mixing Vivera with Carbon is probably the best we have for now.

Quote
I've done some custom mixes with half selenium and half neutral and this is  is the perfect print color in my opinion. But how can I invest in that when they are going to go green? The selenium set is by far the worst monochrome hue for stability of any pigment ever made and I am I'm very sad to say I won't get near it with its current colorants. If I were more knowledgeable I would try to make my own neutralized set by mixing carbon sepia with Epson blue or magenta and the new Cone darker black inks. I sit up at night pondering this kind of crap or how to dilute Vivera light gray into a K6 set with the extra z I have. I have the software but need a base to mix with the gray to make it lighter. I just don't have the time in my life to become am amateur chemist by doing all the tests necessary but if I can pick up a used 3800 just may do it anyway with mixing carbon with Epson blue.

Any idea if you can put Piezography inks into an HP cartridge? It would be much better for low-volume use than having to run with a clog-prone Epson printer.

You should be able to mix Cone Carbon with Vivera inks. It's been done with MIS Eboni inks before. And there are no problems running HP inks through an Epson print head. Using blue or cyan, you should be able to neutralise the carbon. It would just take a bit of experimentation to work out the exact proportions needed.
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deanwork

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #13 on: December 23, 2017, 02:01:05 pm »

[What they don't tell you is that the Hahnemuhle, instead of fading away quickly once it has crossed the e

Most of the green shift is occurring in the darker mid tones not high values that would be from any oba in Photorag.

Have you tried running carbon on Silverada canvas or Moab Slickrock? Or even something like Harman Gloss FB? The results are spectacular.

I don't use k7 with gloss media and I don't use canvas for photography. Don't like ke the look of it. Only reason to do that would be with the neutrals and they are not neutral on gloss media. Slick rock looks great with the Vivera inks since high values are not the priority. I hate the Harmon now. It curlers like a mother and scratches badly. I'm through with that stuff. I love Platine.


That would be the ideal. Carbon for density, mixed with a small amount of blue pigment for neutral black, or a bit more blue pigment for cool black. You could then split-tone it as per normal, or even make a variable split-tone by running warm and cool inksets simultaneously, to be split-toned via software operating the printer.

Yes you could do splits well with studio print in a blue toned dual quad set. I just have no interest in doing splits.

It is certainly doable and will try it first on a smaller printer. You can use Vivera blue or Canon blue like Roark does with success. Problem is what percentage to use in each channel. But if I did get it right it could revolutionize my workflow.

Many mineral pigments essentially don't fade - carbon isn't the only one.

Right , problem is getting them ground to tolerances that fit through an inkjet nozzle. Grinding also changes the hue. If it were easy Epson would have done it long ago in place of those ugly green-brown carbon grays they use.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure that print longevity is Jon Cone's area of interest, or even a prime consideration. So mixing Vivera with Carbon is probably the best we have for now.

Yep

Any idea if you can put Piezography inks into an HP cartridge? It would be much better for low-volume use than having to run with a clog-prone Epson printer.

Don't need to do that Vivera inks are as permanent as piezo carbon and already neutralized . But no they don't work as thermal heads have a heat consideration and the chemistry is designed specifically for them. Though you apparently can get away with doing the opposite apparently - thermal inks in Epson printers. I'm trying to get away from Epson as fast as possible .

You should be able to mix Cone Carbon with Vivera inks. It's been done with MIS Eboni inks before. And there are no problems running HP inks through an Epson print head. Using blue or cyan, you should be able to neutralise the carbon. It would just take a bit of experimentation to work out the exact proportions needed.
[/quote]


You can't do anything with 3rd party inks in the new Epsons as you are locked out. If it is fairly easy to add blue all the channels in the same proportion. But you many need different amounts to create that hue in all the values. That might be easy to figure out or might not. You can play with that by painting the color mix with a brush on rag paper and compare the color of each. I'd love to make something halfway between selenium and neutral. The reason I was considering Epson blue is that it is a known quantity with Epson heads and mixes perfectly with piezo k7 pigments. Advantage to using blue is youbonly have one color ink to deal with as apprised to cyan and magenta which would be a real pain to mix and blend for each channel.
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shadowblade

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #14 on: December 24, 2017, 08:18:25 am »

[What they don't tell you is that the Hahnemuhle, instead of fading away quickly once it has crossed the e

Most of the green shift is occurring in the darker mid tones not high values that would be from any oba in Photorag.

That's the second component of the fading - the progressive deterioration of the coloured toning pigments.

Piezography's non-pure-carbon inksets are toned with Conecolor inks, which have poor permanence compared even with Epson's Ultrachrome K3 inkset.

But look at the progression of colour shift on both papers over time. In both cases, the L* value doesn't change much - the carbon component isn't going to fade. The I* colour, though, drops significantly in the first few tens of Mlux-hrs, then continues at a more gradual pace of decline. This occurs with both papers - just that the initial change is greater in the Hahnemuhle than in the Canson (at 40 Mlux-hours, the I*colour of the Hahnemuhle is 88.8 (average)/81.6 (worst), while that of the Canson is 93.2/91.4). Once the initial change has occurred, there is little difference in the rate of colour change between the two papers. At 100 Mlux-hrs, the Hahnemuhle scores 82.2/73.9, while the Canson scores 88.4/83.7 - in each case, a change of 5-6 (average) to 7-8 (worst) from the 40 Mlux-hr score. So, something is causing an initial, relatively rapid colour shift in both cases (more so in the Hahnemuhle than the Canson), but, once this shift has occurred, colour shift on both papers continues at about the same rate.

And look at the absolute a* values of both papers. Using 100 Mlux-hrs as an example, the inkset on the Hahnemuhle is actually less green than the Canson, even after it undergoes greater colour shift. Not coincidentally, the difference in a* value seems to be about the same as the difference in a* value at 100 Mlux-hrs between the white point of the two papers - the a* value of the unprinted Hahnemuhle at 100 Mlux-hrs is 0.3 less green than the Canson, and the difference between the two printed papers seems to be about the same. So, despite the greater shift from the initial state, the Hahnemuhle is still less green after 100 Mlux-hrs - and, at that stage, both papers are shifting at about the same speed, after the Hahnemuhle's greater initial shift.

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Yes you could do splits well with studio print in a blue toned dual quad set. I just have no interest in doing splits.

Nor do I, in most cases. But, if you have 10-12 ink channels available, you may as well use them...

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It is certainly doable and will try it first on a smaller printer. You can use Vivera blue or Canon blue like Roark does with success. Problem is what percentage to use in each channel. But if I did get it right it could revolutionize my workflow.

It would certainly require a lot of experimentation. Maybe start from Roark's mixtures and take it from there (bearing in mind that Cone Carbon is warmer than the original Eboni inks he was working with, although the new Eboni inks are a lot warmer than the originals).

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Right , problem is getting them ground to tolerances that fit through an inkjet nozzle. Grinding also changes the hue. If it were easy Epson would have done it long ago in place of those ugly green-brown carbon grays they use.

Grinding them small enough isn't really a problem. It changes the hue to an extent (you'll get some shift, but not to the extent of blacks or greens turning to reds or yellows, as with the smaller particles in plasmonic inks) but that barely matters if you're just trying to neutralise a warm ink, rather than develop a wide-gamut colour inkset.

I suspect the reason Epson hasn't done it is simply because it didn't matter to them - the greys are part of a colour inkset, not intended to be used in isolation, and any necessary toning can come from the colour inks being used at the same time. Clearly HP took a different approach - their Vivera black/grey inks are meant to be used in isolation, so are neutral.

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Don't need to do that Vivera inks are as permanent as piezo carbon and already neutralized . But no they don't work as thermal heads have a heat consideration and the chemistry is designed specifically for them. Though you apparently can get away with doing the opposite apparently - thermal inks in Epson printers. I'm trying to get away from Epson as fast as possible .

I suspected as such. Not sure if the resin coating can take the heat without gumming up. Although it may be worth experimenting with just before you're about to change a print head anyway.

I just went through some more of the Aardenburg results - it does actually seem like the Vivera black-and-white mode is just as lightfast as the Cone and Eboni pure carbon inks, with most of the colour shift attributable to changes in the underlying paper (in all cases the plain-paper patch seems to be among the worst-performing patches). I wonder what pigment the HP inks use to tone the black carbon - maybe it actually is a non-fading mineral pigment, as described earlier.

Maybe it would be possible to dilute down Vivera black and grey inks, to create a six- or seven-shade black-and-white inkset, that would be neutral in tone, nearly nonfading and could go in an HP printer. It could even go into the cheaper Z2100, since you wouldn't need nearly as many ink channels (MK, PK, gloss optimiser plus the greys). You'd just need a RIP to drive it.

It was also interesting to note that identical papers seemed to shift differently. Compare #148 with #141 - look at the 140 Mlux-hour results, which are the last ones for the HP test. They even measured significantly differently to begin with (#141 being bluer than #148, despite both being Hahnemuhle Photo Rag 308gsm). For whatever reason, the plain paper patch on #141 also scored an I*colour of 100 at 140 Mlux-hours, while #148 only scored 94.8, despite both having shifted in colour - neither patch would have had any ink on it, so I'm not sure of the reasoning there.
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deanwork

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #15 on: December 24, 2017, 11:21:18 am »

You could dilute the Vivera black but addded shadow info is not my concern. I would start with the two grays they already have and dilute the light gray in half and do it two more times. This whole thing is supported with Ergosoft rip right now as a grayscale workflow with great linearization capability.You can use Spot color workflow using the other hues combined with those grays but very complicated to create in a cmyk or rgb workflow. Have no idea how to do that and linearize accurately.. Grayscale is fairly easy and the resolution and ink-limit capability is awesome. The big issue for me is finding the base in which to dilute this Vivera light gray. There are empty 3rd party inkcarts that could be refilled. Your printer thinks you have rgb loaded. And you can and isolate the channels. Both z printers are supported.

I've always thought hp could easily develop a specialized black and white workflow where you replace 3 color inks with additional grays. The way their printers work and with their easily replaceable small carts and heads it would take you 5 minutes to accomplish. You don't have this big ink resovior like Canon to flush out. It would really be about as easy as switching from pkto mk on Epson printers. Then you would have the greatest digital monochrome solution in the world by far and people would be blown away by both the quality and the longevity. But hp won't do it. We're lucky they are still making the printer at all. But this is a fantastic flexible platform to expand upon. Their digital neg workflow is amazing and so easy to calibrate for any process. But hp never promoted it, so guess how many art schools use it in the world. None.
This thread is WAY off topic now.
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shadowblade

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Re: Anyone tried Breathing Color Signa Smooth paper
« Reply #16 on: December 29, 2017, 11:37:10 am »

You could dilute the Vivera black but addded shadow info is not my concern. I would start with the two grays they already have and dilute the light gray in half and do it two more times. This whole thing is supported with Ergosoft rip right now as a grayscale workflow with great linearization capability.You can use Spot color workflow using the other hues combined with those grays but very complicated to create in a cmyk or rgb workflow. Have no idea how to do that and linearize accurately.. Grayscale is fairly easy and the resolution and ink-limit capability is awesome. The big issue for me is finding the base in which to dilute this Vivera light gray. There are empty 3rd party inkcarts that could be refilled. Your printer thinks you have rgb loaded. And you can and isolate the channels. Both z printers are supported.

Could you use Piezoclean, or some other aqueous carrier fluid? Chemically, the carrier fluids should all be pretty much the same. It's the encapsulation on the pigment particles that might need to be different (in one direction only - thermal inkjet pigments need to be able to take the heat, but should run perfectly fine in a piezo head).

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I've always thought hp could easily develop a specialized black and white workflow where you replace 3 color inks with additional grays. The way their printers work and with their easily replaceable small carts and heads it would take you 5 minutes to accomplish. You don't have this big ink resovior like Canon to flush out. It would really be about as easy as switching from pkto mk on Epson printers. Then you would have the greatest digital monochrome solution in the world by far and people would be blown away by both the quality and the longevity.

I guess the most obvious ones to replace would be the blue, green and red. That way, you'd still have the CMYK and light inks to retain as much gamut as possible.

The logical endpoint to this would be multiple inksets, for various purposes, united by a common printer. Maybe 'default', 'commercial' (strongest colours and deepest blacks, sacrificing longevity for impact, perhaps even replacing RGB with fluorescent inks), 'museum' (maximum longevity) and 'monochrome'.

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But hp won't do it. We're lucky they are still making the printer at all. But this is a fantastic flexible platform to expand upon. Their digital neg workflow is amazing and so easy to calibrate for any process. But hp never promoted it, so guess how many art schools use it in the world. None.

The Z3100/Z3200 is the AK-47 of the printer world. A bit clunky, but amazingly durable and low-maintenance, and will print almost despite anything you do to it. Not like the Epsons and Rolands, which pretty much demand to run constantly, and under ideal conditions.

A few years ago, I posted about the possibility of using ceramic frit inks on glass or porcelain, firing them in an oven after printing to bake the pigments into the glass, creating an image that lasts as long as the piece itself. Now it seems that they're starting to show up in places, for artistic prints on glass or ceramic as well as their initial role in architecture. They use a Blue/Green/White/Yellow/Red/Black inkset, printed via a flatbed inkjet printer, and don't currently have the same gamut as the CMYK process, but are getting there. In particular, they struggle with pinks/purples, as well as heavily saturated cyans - current magenta and cyan inks can't survive the firing process, apart from toxic lead- and cadmium-based pigments. New, non-toxic ones are apparently being developed. But, even now, the results are good for those images which fall within their (still considerable) gamut.

These are all mineral pigments, which are almost completely lightfast and minimally reactive to atmospheric pollutants. They aren't as strongly coloured as organic pigments, but glass printers get around this by using more pigment. It should be possible to use the same pigments in a UV-curable inkset, with the printer laying down layer after layer of colour until the desired strength and opacity are reached. Indeed, you could use the current magenta and cyan pigments in such an inkset - the non-toxic minerals may not be able to withstand a 600-degree oven, but would not have to do so for this purpose.

It may be that the future of high-end photo printing lies not with aqueous inkjet printers, which require specially-prepared surfaces, careful handling and a lot of post-printing work (drying, coating, etc., not to mention stretching of canvas and framing of paper prints), but with flatbed and multipurpose (convertible between roll-to-roll and flatbed modes) printers capable of producing an end-product in one step, with minimal manual handling, on many different media types. The ability to print directly to rigid media would be itself a huge improvement - no more dry-mounting, face-mounting or dye-sub transfers required, with all their risks of failure (either immediate, or down the track), but the ability to directly produce an archival print onto whatever final surface you want it on. Just put a sheet of Dibond or aluminium into it and the printer would then lay down primer (using multiple passes to create whatever texture was desired - flatbed printers can replicate any texture of paper or canvas), followed by white, followed by colours. Combine it with a spray-lamination head (since there's no drying time) and an inbuilt cutter and you could just put in sheets of metal, styrene, wood or almost anything else at one end, leave the printer for ten minutes, then pick up the finished product on the other end. A 44-48"-wide version would serve a print shop, photo lab or gallery well. But, unfortunately, I can't see anyone bringing out such a device in the next ten years - Agfa/EFI/Oce seem to have little interest in the photography/art market, while Epson/Canon are too wedded to their aqueous paper/canvas printers to develop in this direction.

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This thread is WAY off topic now.

Yep.

Are you still printing the Lyve and Timeless combination? Last time, you were having supply issues... I'm guessing they're resolved?
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